Community Forums

Mr_D · 03-07-2017, 01:45 PM

Apparently my shore power plug is bad.

I think the neutral has broken inside the molded on shore power connector. My Silverleaf panel shows both 120 lines on the panel but no amps flowing, and my inverter goes into "Fault" mode. Tried different 50-30 and 50-15 converters and still get the error.
The Neutral prong doesn't seem to come out of the housing straight either. No burn marks, nor is the prong loose, just doesn't seem to connect.
Headed out for the weekend on Thursday if I can get this working again. Right now I've got my battery charger on the house bank and the inverter on to run the refer.
Leaving now to go find a new 50 amp male plug. Hope I don't have to drive to CW as it's a 60 mile round trip through heavy traffic.

Kiawah · 03-07-2017, 03:27 PM

Check Homedepot / Lowes for the generic 50A plug, in a pinch.

I carry both a 30a and a 50a spare, as I had a 30 a -> 50 amp dongle go bad once.

Assuming you've already measured the voltages in the shorepower post, I would first put a meter on the other end of the cable to make sure the problem isn't in a wind up reel, or transfer switch. There's a couple of things in the electric path before it ends up in your circuit breaker box.

Pusherman · 03-07-2017, 03:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mr_D

Apparently my shore power plug is bad.

I think the neutral has broken inside the molded on shore power connector. My Silverleaf panel shows both 120 lines on the panel but no amps flowing, and my inverter goes into "Fault" mode. Tried different 50-30 and 50-15 converters and still get the error.
The Neutral prong doesn't seem to come out of the housing straight either. No burn marks, nor is the prong loose, just doesn't seem to connect.
Headed out for the weekend on Thursday if I can get this working again. Right now I've got my battery charger on the house bank and the inverter on to run the refer.
Leaving now to go find a new 50 amp male plug. Hope I don't have to drive to CW as it's a 60 mile round trip through heavy traffic.

Mr D -- Get out your trusty volt meter and make some measurements on the shore power plug. Across the 2-120V prongs X and Y you should be reading 240V. Across 1 of the 120V prongs either X or Y to ground G you should read 120V. Across 1 of the 120V prongs either X or Y to neutral W you should read 120V. Check all combinations of the above. If these readings are OK, then there may be a problem in your coach.....

My Winnebago One Place monitor will show NO AMPS when plugged in to 50A service. Not sure how your coach works.

Good luck!

Mr_D · 03-07-2017, 06:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Pusherman

Mr D -- Get out your trusty volt meter and make some measurements on the shore power plug. Across the 2-120V prongs X and Y you should be reading 240V. Across 1 of the 120V prongs either X or Y to ground G you should read 120V. Across 1 of the 120V prongs either X or Y to neutral W you should read 120V. Check all combinations of the above. If these readings are OK, then there may be a problem in your coach.....

My Winnebago One Place monitor will show NO AMPS when plugged in to 50A service. Not sure how your coach works.

Good luck!

I was plugged into a 30 amp receptacle to a 30 amp adapter to the 50 amp shore cord. Turned the power off, unplugged everything and moved the rig. Now trying to use a 15 amp plug to keep the batteries up while I get ready. So I get the same error from two different incoming circuits, adapters and extension cords. BTW, I had the same problem when I first hooked up to my 30 amp setup at home, but that receptacle is about 30 years old so I assumed it was the culprit when I happened last time.
I have a Glendinning CM-9, so no connections to go bad like the reels have.
My SilverLeaf total house system does show the load drawn on both legs of the incoming power, even if using an adapter to lower amps.

Mr_D · 03-07-2017, 07:10 PM

OK, someone should know this. Using a VOM set for just continuity and measuring at my cord FROM the MH what readings should I get?
L1 to L2 = ?
L1 to ground = ?
L2 to ground = ?
L1 to Neutral = ?
L2 to Neutral = ?
Ground to Neutral = ?

RockyMtnRide · 03-07-2017, 09:40 PM

Connected to a power source

L1 to L2 = 240v
L1 to ground = 120v
L2 to ground = 120v
L1 to Neutral = 120v
L2 to neutral = 120v
Ground to neutral = 0 v
do not test a live circuit with continuity. You will damage your meter.

If you are disconnected from power then:
All continuity readings will show infinity or a high resistance except ground to neutral. they are tied together and should show continuity.

Mr_D · 03-08-2017, 12:01 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RockyMtnRide

If you are disconnected from power then:
All continuity readings will show infinity or a high resistance except ground to neutral. they are tied together and should show continuity.

That's what I thought. Need to check again as I thought I got continuity from the neutral to either L1 or L2.

Started the gen and that gives me full power so it's not the transfer switch.

RockyMtnRide · 03-08-2017, 06:40 AM

With the gen set off, check continuity between the neutral blade on the park end of your power cable with the other end of that same cable at your power reel. Should be the white wire. You mentioned the plug end looked strange. From your symptoms you might have an open on your neutral line probably at the plug.

Mr_D · 03-08-2017, 09:39 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RockyMtnRide

With the gen set off, check continuity between the neutral blade on the park end of your power cable with the other end of that same cable at your power reel. Should be the white wire. You mentioned the plug end looked strange. From your symptoms you might have an open on your neutral line probably at the plug.

That is my guess too, will check it today after I run the awning out to get some protection from the rain we've been getting!!

F76Marion · 03-08-2017, 10:00 AM

D,

IF you truly have an open neutral in your shore power cable, the situation is extremely dangerous. It can kill everything powered by AC.

If your panel was done to code for an RV, there will be a separate neutral buss (with white wires) and ground buss (with bare wires).

My Suggestion (as an ex-ship's electrician): Unplug the shore power cable. open your main circuit box. throw the cable in through a (n open) window and measure continuity between the neutral pin and the neutral bus in the panel. If you don't get solid continuity there, fix it NOW.

Frank

Mr_D · 03-08-2017, 10:15 AM

Shore power has been unplugged since yesterday since the power monitor wouldn't allow any power through. Have the rig hooked to a battery charger temporarily to keep the refer running off the inverter (which doesn't give me a fault when not trying to use shore power).

Mr_D · 03-09-2017, 12:53 AM

Still chasing this down. Went out and took my external charger off and hooked up my 15 amp shore power to try. NO inverter fault and I didn't change anything other then pushing the neutral prong back into alignment. Been running without a problem for about 14 hours now. Guess I'll see what happens when I arrive at the rally tomorrow afternoon. Only going about 30 miles so it's no biggie if I have a problem there.

RockyMtnRide · 03-09-2017, 08:10 AM

Sounds like your plug may have a loose or partial break internal to the neutral blade. Amazing what a wiggle will do! Tough if the cable end is molded, but you can cut it off and replace if needed.

smlranger · 03-10-2017, 05:27 AM

I replaced the molded plug on my previous DP with one of these:

https://www.amazon.com/Camco-55255-P...+amp+male+plug

It fixed my issues and made it easier to use with the built in grab handle.