Community Forums

kabado · 08-21-2014, 08:20 PM

We are on our first trip with our 2014 Precept 31UL (hi Hedgens!). We got 1 shower but now our water heater is not igniting. My husband us doing the dance with this forum and the manual. So far, nothing works. Guess we will be taking cold showers and/or calling for help.
NOT a fan of this tank less water heater at all. Aaaghhh.

kabado · 08-21-2014, 08:27 PM

Yay! Hubby wiggled a wire connection to the thermostat and it fired up the water heater. Now he is doing dishes like he promised he would!

dm.akafun · 08-22-2014, 02:30 PM

I like simple fixes. So please share specifics of where the wire is. Did he take something apart to find the loose wire?
Thanks and congratulations.

kabado · 08-23-2014, 09:28 PM

Actually, he says he just wiggled the whole control box and fixed it.

dm.akafun · 08-24-2014, 02:28 PM

hahaahahahahahaha......like I said.....I like simple.

1mainiac · 08-28-2014, 08:14 PM

Here is my take on the Girrard water heater so far. First it can be a great system and most of my customers tell me after they got past the early bugs they work great. Ok so here is some things to check as I have learned working on them. First think of it more like a furnace than a water heater it will help you understand sequence of operation much quicker. When you power the unit up you turn on power to the relay in the upper left hand corner in back of the unit you will lose some skin reaching into it. The relay is controlled by the flow switch which is a reed style magnet switch just like a step switch. If you look straight back into the unit you will see the reed sw on a pipe looking fitting in the back it has 2 black wires one goes to the relay above it and the other goes to ground. Once water flow is enough to push the magnet in the fitting up it causes the reed sw to close and send a ground to the relay. The relay turns on the blower and the board just like a furnace. The Power then goes thru the sail switch and to the t stat and ECO which as noted has a rest button on it. Once power goes thru the Sail sw T stat and ECO it goes to the board which begins a ign cycle just like a furnace. Inside the unit is a temp control that tell the board how much heat to apply if you turn it up on a hot day you will trip the ECO pretty often. SO start with the lowest setting you can live with inside. This is nice if you have small kids to leave it turned down low because the ECO trips at close to 160 deg water. Next don't ask me why but several companies are putting by pass plumbing on these and the most consistent problems are that the by pass is not right and allow water to go around the heater so it does not work. I hope this helps.

Hudgens · 08-28-2014, 11:14 PM

Thanks for taking the time to share your knowledge of this tankless water heater. I may not understand every component, but the process you described makes sense. I agree with you about setting the temperature control to a lower setting. It seems that is about the only way ours gets anywhere close to being usable.

Cwasp · 08-30-2014, 06:13 PM

My 2014 Seneca has the same issue. One campground it works, next campground, same day it doesn't. I have a look see scheduled in two weeks!

Hudgens · 08-31-2014, 09:50 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Cwasp

My 2014 Seneca has the same issue. One campground it works, next campground, same day it doesn't. I have a look see scheduled in two weeks!

When there is a difference between locations (water connections), I've heard that the water pressure affects how the water heater performs. I'm not sure about the "science," but the little bit I've heard is there needs to be a steady "demand flow" to the water heater. In those cases you might try either removing your water regulator (if using one) or increase the flow of water.

Others might offer better options. That is about all I know at this point.

dm.akafun · 09-07-2014, 06:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Hudgens

When there is a difference between locations (water connections), I've heard that the water pressure affects how the water heater performs. I'm not sure about the "science," but the little bit I've heard is there needs to be a steady "demand flow" to the water heater. In those cases you might try either removing your water regulator (if using one) or increase the flow of water.

Others might offer better options. That is about all I know at this point.

Haven't tried it yet, but I have heard when there is pressure problem some have filled their onboard fresh and utilized their pump..........even though they are hooked to city water. We have used our pump on 2 separate weekend outings and have had hot water as much as we needed, when we needed. I hope we are not the exception...........

Hudgens · 09-07-2014, 07:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dm.akafun

Haven't tried it yet, but I have heard when there is pressure problem some have filled their onboard fresh and utilized their pump..........even though they are hooked to city water. We have used our pump on 2 separate weekend outings and have had hot water as much as we needed, when we needed. I hope we are not the exception...........

Now that's what I like about RVers and these forums....creative solutions. You don't give up...you just keep trying stuff. Using the pump that is matched to the RV's water system is a good thought. Thanks for sharing.