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Old 09-21-2022, 06:32 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kmrofrano View Post
Hi all,

...
Long term I want to add one of the battery monitors with a shunt, I am just not there yet.

Thanks in advance!
The learning phase will go much easier if you install that shunt meter sooner rather than long term. The voltage idiot lights are worse than useless. When our flooded batteries get to float voltage the top idiot light goes out.

You are kinda beating your head against a wall trying to figure this all out using the idiot lights vs the easy way with a monitor. Make sure that the monitor is shunt based, the others are just renamed volt meters.

Go here and spend some time, lotsa good info on batteries. https://batteryuniversity.com/

Handy Bob's solar typed into Google should also provide you with some worthwhile reading.

Two batteries with that fridge is cutting things quite close for boondocking. A genny back up would be pretty much required.

I may have missed it but how many watts of solar panels?
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Old 09-21-2022, 06:57 PM   #16
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We have a 2021 Jayco Jay Feather 27 BHB. We ordered it with the 12volt fridge, solar and had the dealer install 2 AMG deep cycle batteries.

My understanding is the converter takes 120/240 volts and converts it to 12 volts to operate lights, the fridge etc. and also chargers the batteries. The solar would charge the batteries (to its ability/capacity) if we aren't plugged into shore power. Is that fairly accurate?


Yes, this is accurate.

My concern or issue is the converter may not be working. I have noticed the solar controller reads 3/4 charge (light on the display) as low as 12.2 volts and charging in the morning even though we are on shore power.

There are two likely causes for the voltage to drop to 12.2 volts overnight. The first is the converter is not charging the batteries. The second is the draw on the batteries is greater than the 60 amps the PD converter can provide.

Today we never reached a full charge. We were not in the camper for most of the day, no lights on and I see the soar is charging, but we are at 13.0 volts. My concern is losing the batteries if they aren't recovering/charging.

13.0 means Charger is operating. It may be the solar doing the charging or it may be the PD converter is doing the charging, or both. However, as you suggest, the PD converter should be able to keep the voltage up to 13.6 volts without the use of solar.

As you suggest, the batteries appear to be discharged and do not reach full charge in one day. It takes 14 to 18 hours to fully charge lead acid batteries, but the terminal voltage should reach 13.6 volts in side 8 hours.

The dealer said they tested it and it's working fine, but I would expect the converter to keep up with lights and the fridge while plugged in.

I agree, using both solar and the PD converter, battery voltage should not drop below 13.0 volts. Again there are two typical possibilities. The first is the PD converter is not working. Two, the draw on the 12 volt system is greater than 60 amps.

Maxair fans are running) I would expect the 60 amps to keep up no issue at all. Maybe it's just not enough?

I agree, 60 amps should be enough.
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Old 09-21-2022, 07:00 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SteveJ. View Post
The learning phase will go much easier if you install that shunt meter sooner rather than long term. The voltage idiot lights are worse than useless. When our flooded batteries get to float voltage the top idiot light goes out.

You are kinda beating your head against a wall trying to figure this all out using the idiot lights vs the easy way with a monitor. Make sure that the monitor is shunt based, the others are just renamed volt meters.

Go here and spend some time, lotsa good info on batteries. https://batteryuniversity.com/

Handy Bob's solar typed into Google should also provide you with some worthwhile reading.

Two batteries with that fridge is cutting things quite close for boondocking. A genny back up would be pretty much required.

I may have missed it but how many watts of solar panels?
SteveJ

I am not boondocking, thatís the odd part. I am plugged in and the batteries get low over night while plugged in. So my question was ďdoes the converter function as a chargerĒ as the first step in trouble shooting.

I am reading battery volts at the solar controller, so not an idiot light but not the best.

Itís a 12 volt fridge at 11 AMPS, so 122 watts. Not sure what the LED lights and max air fans pull. But on shore power there should be zero issue.

Iíd have to go back and look, but I *think* itís only 190 watts, one panel. Not expecting it to keep up with everything at this point.

Thanks!
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Old 09-21-2022, 07:04 PM   #18
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PD4500 Series Troubelshooting

https://www.progressivedyn.com/wp-co...LESHOOTING.pdf
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Old 09-23-2022, 10:14 AM   #19
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You seem to understand well, but are not sure of your conclusions. I agree with your conclusions. The most likely cause is the PD is not always or not at all providing 12 volt charging to the batteries and the 12 volt system.

The attached file has info about what battery terminal voltage means.
Attached Files
File Type: pdf Charging Lead Acid Bat.pdf (131.4 KB, 5 views)
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Old 10-08-2022, 04:06 PM   #20
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Found it!

Sorry for the long delay in responding, "life got in the way". I was able to look at a few things suggested and take some voltage readings that were at best all over the place, I found a bad ground for what I believe is the feed to/from the converter!

There is a bus bar mounted to the floor with a number of white ground wires. One is a 6-gauge ground from the converter. When I saw if half installed, I touched it to trace it and it fell out. The circuit board end of the wire is labeled as Bat Ground. It also appears to be where the converter joins the ground side.








I also found a red 6-guage wire at the converter half installed and loose. That one was labeled Bat Disconnect. There were also several loose grounds on the 12 volt and 120-volt bus bars.

https://kmrstudios.smugmug.com/Campe...nd/i-5SC7BNH/A

https://kmrstudios.smugmug.com/Campe...nd/i-2fZDKsS/A

After fixing these I now show 14.3 volts on the solar charge controller.

https://kmrstudios.smugmug.com/Campe...nd/i-FTXSrff/A

Next is installing the shunt and battery monitor.

Thanks for the input, diagrams and manuals/fault tracing info. It is greatly appreciated.
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