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Old 04-04-2015, 10:40 AM   #15
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Navigator, could you tell me how you bypass it.
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Old 04-04-2015, 10:47 AM   #16
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nothermark,
I know my spec is supposed to be 400 W inverter but for some reason I have 1000 W installed, it must be an upgrade, I'll have to ask when I see the tech. I'm looking at a 2000 W to be installed hopefully that takes care my problem. Thanks for your help.
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Old 04-04-2015, 10:56 AM   #17
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I have a 2015 GreyHawk ME the spec is for a 400 W inverter but the manual states that I have 1000 W installed in my coach, I only have one house battery and I'm not sure about it being wired into fuse box. I'm picking up my RV on Monday I have a lot of questions for the technician after receiving feedback from all of you. Thanks for the help.
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Old 04-04-2015, 10:59 AM   #18
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Your dealer is an IDIOT

The front mounted TV can not be used while driving but other inverter devices work 100%
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Old 04-04-2015, 05:05 PM   #19
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With a 1000 watt inverter, you will have to find a coffee maker that will work with it. Most good coffee makers won't. Heck, my electric tea kettle is 1500 watts.
Another problem is one battery. Yes you can use a small coffee maker, and yes the battery may last during the days drive. That being said, if you install a 2000 watt inverter you will need more batteries.

Why not save yourself a lot of time and money and just use the Genny when you need it?
You can make coffee, run the microwave, the Air Conditioning, and even make toast.
It just drives me crazy that people don't want to use their Genny. Heck, you paid good money for it, why not use it?
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Old 04-04-2015, 09:00 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mrbill13 View Post
Navigator, could you tell me how you bypass it.
I removed the outlet from the junction box and found the solenoid glued to the back. There was a purple wire going to the solenoid - I cut it and capped off both ends. The outlet now operates on either the inverter or the genny when the engine is running.

There are a ton of posts on this, some of which include pictures. Just search the forum if you want more specifics.

The whole thing is a bit silly - I can't see the over-cab mounted TV from the driver seat anyway.
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Old 04-05-2015, 05:33 AM   #21
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FWIW there are two problems with running and inverter. One is getting a big enough inverter to handle the load. The second one is having enough power to supply the inverter. Whatever device you want to plug in has a stated power requirement. The power stays the same despite the voltage change so the current increases to compensate. For a 12 V nominal system the easiest way to estimate the DC draw is to move the decimal point. A 1200 Watt coffee pot or microwave draws 1200/120=10 Amps @ 120 V or 100 Amps @ 12 V if you do the math. (Figure the extra volt covers the conversion loss if the system is running 13.6 or so for charging.)

The question then becomes whether or not your combined DC power system has the capacity to supply that power without breaking something or seriously shortening the life of the battery. It is safe to assume the alternator is using a major chunk of it's output to charge the starting battery and run the vehicle. If you are running lights, Air or heat they all draw extra power. Say you can draw half the output from generator and the other half from your house battery. That's 50 A the house battery will be pumping into the system instead of charging for the length of the usage. Then the alternator will need to put the 50 A x time used back into the battery after you stop drawing the power.

The question then becomes whether or not your deep cycle house battery can supply that current flow for the time needed and maintain more than 50% charge. I cannot tell you the answer to that because I do not know what size battery you have. OTOH I can tell you most of the folks who are saying "no problem" are probably running alternators twice or more your size and 4 or more deep cycle batteries probably bigger than what comes with your unit.

Another thing to consider is that every time you double the power of the inverter you double the current and need to (as I recall) double the wire size to handle the load. Otherwise you make a lot of extra heat in the wires and may make enough to melt something. ;-(

I think your salesman gave you some good advice. Your system is undersized for running electrical loads like that. That is without getting into the safety aspects of trying to cook while bouncing down the road at high speed.
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Old 04-05-2015, 05:43 AM   #22
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If it only runs the TV, You may be able to do some re-wiring so :

1) The TV can run all the time.

2) Add a couple outlets so you can use the inverter for other stuff.

On my Mirada, I added a small inverter specifically to use while driving (It can be used anytime) to re-charge cell phones, laptop, etc.

Installing a small inverter for on the road
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Old 04-05-2015, 06:38 AM   #23
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Generators dont get enough excercise. Give your alternator and batteries a break, use the genny.
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Old 04-06-2015, 04:48 PM   #24
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Okay everyone, I just got my RV back I didn't get anywhere with the tech. So I decided not to upgrade to another inverter I'm going to use my generator while driving for the microwave and coffee. As far as the TV goes, I took the plate off the TV outlet I found five wires two heavy gauge a black and white that I believe is for 120V three thinner wires black white and red I believe these wires are for 12 V I think the black and white are hot and neutral and the red probably for the cut off switch so you can't watch TV when the ignition switch is on. I think by cutting the red wire I'll be able to drive and the passengers will be able to watch TV. But before I do any cutting, I thought I would run this by you guys just in case I'm about to do something I should be doing HELP!
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Old 04-06-2015, 10:13 PM   #25
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mrbill13, I think you might have the wires reversed. The two heavy gage black & white wires are most likely 12v DC. I believe the thinner black, white & red wires are 120v AC. Best to confirm with a meter.
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