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Old 08-27-2012, 08:24 PM   #1
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01 Diplomat slide leak

Hi all,
I have a 2001 Monaco Diplomat that i have been narrowing an on going water leak at the drivers side front slide. i found that the water comes in on the inside of the upper gasket in the slide opening where the slide box is to seal against when it is fully extended. after some narrowing down the issue it seems that the water may be coming from the frame area that the gasket sets onto to. with the awning removed and the slide slightly extended i checked thoroughly all the seams over top the slide opening on the coach. i even pulled the gasket from the opening and added sealer into the U shaped groove of the gasket mounting surface and reinstalled it onto the frame. i did find the roof a/c unit quite loose which is directly across from the slide opening where the water seems to be magically running off the inside of the slide opening gasket. has anyone else experienced this type of water leak?

Thanks,
Barry
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Old 08-28-2012, 07:15 AM   #2
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Also check the corners where the opening trim is mitered even on the inside
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Old 08-28-2012, 08:52 AM   #3
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When its difficult to find a leak on a slide out room, sometimes it is because you are looking in the wrong places. Its not always the rubber seals..... check all the seams on the face,sides and top of slide out room. There may be little gaps in the silicone and the water will travel under the floor and find an entry point or not.
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Old 08-30-2012, 09:59 PM   #4
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I will be headed up north this weekend and they are calling for rain so i will be able to check over these items and will report back.

Thanks.
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Old 08-31-2012, 06:47 AM   #5
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Had the same problem. The culprit was where they connected the flange onto the box of the slide. The sealant they used was defective and didn't seal. Had to have the slide disassembled and it resealed.
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Old 08-31-2012, 08:39 AM   #6
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Well there are several things that need to be correct in order to stop water coming in. The seal around the opening is a double bulb type with a center wiper. The wiper should touch the slide sides and top and seal off any water there. This does not always happen due to slide adjustment or the seal wiper being too short ( could be too long also).

The wiper is supposed to flip out when the slide goes out and with a little age this does not happen as it should. To correct this install a 3M safety tape on the sides vertically about 6" from the coach with the slide open. On top go from the center out toward the outside wall of the slide in a 'V'. The 3M safety tape should be about 1" wide and comes in clear, white and black. It also comes in three different degrees of roughness and I find medium to work fine. It feels like sandpaper but is not. It is all plastic and will not damage the wiper.

The slide has several rollers under it. Two can be accessed inside in the bottom of cabinets (one under the drawers under the cook-top), and the others in the ceiling of basement compartments. There is also one in the driver's wheel well that is difficult to reach, and has a cover which must be removed. These need to be adjusted so all meet the slide box correctly. Put the slide out about a foot and back off on all roller adjustments till the roller is free. Then run the roller adjustments till the roller just touches the box. Then turn each adjustment 1 and 1/2 turn more. Now check the top wiper and see if it touches the slide correctly. If not you may need to turn each adjustment bolt another turn or half turn till the wiper touches.

When the slide is open, the wiper should touch and be flipped outward, but the bulb seals are not what seals water out. Inside behind the wood trim there is another seal that is mounted to the back of the slide box trim that should seal to the inside of the coach wall. Same is true on the outside when the slide is closed. There you can see the seal and make sure it covers the top opening corners when the slide is closed. If the slide does not close this seal correctly, you can get water in. The box may need to be adjusted to tilt it on the slide mechanism. Think about a box that one end (the inside) is stationary and the other end can be moved up or down to tilt it. There are vertical adjustments on the slide for this outside and at the outside wall of the slide itself.
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Old 08-31-2012, 10:33 AM   #7
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Gr8 info. i have 3m white fine non slip tape ordered, matches the slide box, and will be tackling this again this weekend. So glad i found this forum.

Thanks,

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Old 08-31-2012, 03:09 PM   #8
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Barry the FINE may be too fine to work. Medium is much better and should be available at West Marine if you have one where you live.
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Old 09-02-2012, 08:08 PM   #9
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Barry,
We had water coming in the exact same place right behind the drivers seat on the floor by the slide. We noticed it every time it rained and it appeared to be dripping off the inside corner of the slide floor when the slide was retracted. Nice little puddle every time. I went over all the slide seals and sprayed everywhere on the slide with the garden hose when it was extended and retracted but could not make the puddle appear. But every time it rained... there it was. Long story short - I was on the roof one day checking the DiCor and noticed the RTV silicon sealing the joint between the front cap and the roof (this is an overlap joint) on the drivers side had separated a little. I removed all of the old RTV silicon, cleaned it up and applied all new RTV silicon and the nice little puddles disappeared. It's been over a year now and they have not returned. Probably worth a trip up on the roof to check it out.

Good luck!
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Old 09-04-2012, 04:52 PM   #10
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OK, last weekend i found the roof air units loose, the front so much so you could easily lift it off the roof slightly :>O. properly tighten the 4 bolts inside that hold the air units tight to the roof. This weekend we did not get all the rain we experienced all summer but enough that it should have leaked and no leaks. The front air unit is directly across from where the water had been mysteriously dripping on the inside of the double bulb seal and into the channel that runs the top length of the slide just behind the wood trim that the trim fastens to. Time will tell but i think that did it.
On another note : i also repaired front cap separating at the seam south of the drivers side window. What was Monaco thinking using #6 ish self tapper screws 4-5 inches apart to hold that front cap and side panel to the framing?? Most the screws had snapped off under the rubber trim. i will need to redo the top seam north of the drivers side window to in front of the galley slide which ties in the roof, which i had temporarily repaired last winter, but want to do a cleaner looking repair. Thanks for all the advise!

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Old 09-04-2012, 05:11 PM   #11
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Barry one more thing to look at on the front cap. Open the generator door and stick your head inside, then look up. The bottom side of the dash is a steel plate that is structural. There are two metal 'L' brackets that are screwed to the back side of the front cap, and then to the steel bottom of the dash. They are difficult to see the screws that go up as the wiper motor and mechanism is in the way. If the screws are loose or gone, you may need to remove the mechanism in order to reach the screws. Those going into the back of the front cap go into a wood block covered with fiberglass.
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Old 09-04-2012, 06:23 PM   #12
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Thx, i will check those also.

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