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Old 12-12-2014, 03:42 PM   #29
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It seems like you need to create a schematic for your 120v power distribution, including wire routing. This will indeed help now and in the long run.

If you get a simple signal tracer and put the signal generator device at a failed outlet and the take the probe to find the wire routing it will provide info where the circuit is interrupted.

Good luck.
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Old 12-12-2014, 03:50 PM   #30
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Originally Posted by Libero View Post
It seems like you need to create a schematic for your 120v power distribution, including wire routing. This will indeed help now and in the long run.

If you get a simple signal tracer and put the signal generator device at a failed outlet and the take the probe to find the wire routing it will provide info where the circuit is interrupted.

Good luck.
Excellent advice ... wish I had done that with my TV coax
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Old 12-12-2014, 09:27 PM   #31
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It sounds inverter related, you said one outlet behind the frig, (usally for the ice maker, and uses the inverter.) also the outlet for the microwave(uses the inverter) and are the others up front? TV etc, they are made to use the inverter also. Someone suggested turning on the inverter and seeing if outlets are still dead, I think I would pull shore power, to make sure your using your batteries, make sure inverter is turned on ( I turn mine off and on from the inside of the coach at power monitoring panel) and give it a try.
Good luck
John G.
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Old 12-13-2014, 05:29 AM   #32
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It sounds inverter related, you said one outlet behind the frig, (usally for the ice maker, and uses the inverter.) also the outlet for the microwave(uses the inverter) and are the others up front? TV etc, they are made to use the inverter also. Someone suggested turning on the inverter and seeing if outlets are still dead, I think I would pull shore power, to make sure your using your batteries, make sure inverter is turned on ( I turn mine off and on from the inside of the coach at power monitoring panel) and give it a try.
Good luck
John G.
On this rig the ice maker definitely doesn't run off the inverter. Says so right in the owners manual.

I have turned off the shore power and everything thing that is suppose to run off the batteries does with the exception of those outlets. My son is a master electrician and he suspects its a lose neutral somewhere at the first outlet or gang box in the line. Now to find it. I suspect it might not be easily accessed.
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Old 12-13-2014, 05:43 AM   #33
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Most outlets go through your inverter. Check the circuit breakers on the inverter and make sure it is turned on.
We just had that problem. Hubby found the wires from the inverter gunkened up. He cleaned them and put salve on them to prevent it from getting gunked up again. Might want to check that.
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Old 12-13-2014, 06:04 AM   #34
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Suspect list in no particular order:
Tripped GFCI (Some RV's have more than one)
Tripped breaker, SOME RV's have more than one breaker box, if you have an inverter you either have a 2nd breaker box or breakers on the inverter itself.
Lost leg, transfer switch, park tripped breaker, main or park loos screw in plug, outlet (Shore cord) inlet (Side of RV) elsewhere.
Screw loose, many RVers have a few screws loose usually in the breaker box or see last item. (A #2 square bit fit mine).

Broken wire/bad connection in a junction box (Under slide outs)

Bad connection in one of those crummy RV style outlets (I really do not like those) this is epically popular if you have used a space heater or other high power device.

That one can be a witch to track down.
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Old 12-13-2014, 07:02 AM   #35
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On this rig the ice maker definitely doesn't run off the inverter. Says so right in the owners manual.

I have turned off the shore power and everything thing that is suppose to run off the batteries does with the exception of those outlets. My son is a master electrician and he suspects its a lose neutral somewhere at the first outlet or gang box in the line. Now to find it. I suspect it might not be easily accessed.
Loose connections are quite possible.

With all power removed:

Each connection should be LOOSENED 1/4 - 1/2 turn, then retighten.

If it won't LOOSEN, it is highly suspect and the screw has probably seized from heat.

Don't try to just skip the loosening and tighten ... a seized (but loose connection) screw will feel tight.
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Old 12-14-2014, 05:37 AM   #36
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UPDATE: Found the cause, loose connection in the first junction box from the inverter. Vibration must have cause the wire nut to loosen enough that one wire slipped free and broke the circuit. ALL IS NORMAL NOW!

Thanks for the suggestions!

One thing I did learn, I will design things differently when it comes to what outlets are run through the inverter and which aren't. Definitely need direct AC outlets in places where you plan to run high energy appliances.
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Old 12-14-2014, 05:48 AM   #37
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UPDATE: Found the cause, loose connection in the first junction box from the inverter. Vibration must have cause the wire nut to loosen enough that one wire slipped free and broke the circuit. ALL IS NORMAL NOW!

Thanks for the suggestions!

One thing I did learn, I will design things differently when it comes to what outlets are run through the inverter and which aren't. Definitely need direct AC outlets in places where you plan to run high energy appliances.
Thanks or the update! We always appreciate info on a resolution! Starting to see some of these ...

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Old 12-14-2014, 05:48 AM   #38
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UPDATE: Found the cause, loose connection in the first junction box from the inverter. Vibration must have cause the wire nut to loosen enough that one wire slipped free and broke the circuit.

Makes one wonder.....I always taped the wirenut securely to prevent it from ever loosening whenever I did electrical on houses that NEVER MOVED! Why didn't the people building RVs think about vibration when they put these things together ?

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Old 12-14-2014, 07:27 AM   #39
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Glad you found it. I do preventive maintenance on my RV, which includes inspecting and correcting any potential connection problem. I trace the route of every wire and document it. Even if you have a schematic, often you do not know wire routing.

As I noted before. A signal tracer like the one I have, a Fluke Pro 3000, is ideal for this task. I have had to make my own schematics also. Knowing where every wire goes and it's purpose make troubleshooting so much easier.

Suggest every RVer get this type of gizmo and document cable routing. It will save time someday.

A signal tracer would have led you to that open circuit.
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