12v relay temp

[Cclark746]

I had no 12v power throughout the coach, I found the master electronic solenoid/relays in the rear engine compartment on the passenger side to be the problem. They were very warm before I disconnected them. I replaced them with some white Rogers. I checked the temp seems they are between 110-130 degrees with nothing on in the coach and plugged into shore power. No lights, the thermostats are powered up but not turned on. Is this normal for them to run this hot with no load? Thanks!

[Jim_HiTek]

Please put the age, brand, and model of your RV in your signature.

Can you post a picture of what you're talking about?

[Cclark746]

I just edited my signature idk why It didn’t post. 03 Monaco dynasty baroness.

[jacwjames]

My coach uses this as the salesman switch solenoid
https://www.amazon.com/TERMINAL-CONT.../dp/B00FQSJH46
even with nothing on it stays warm to the touch, there is quite of bit of parasitic draw.

If you turn the salesman switch off then there is no power going through it.



If you never use the salesman switch you can bypass the solenoid and just use the battery disconnects to protect the battery.

[Cclark746]

Seems like there shouldn’t be that much draw going through it with everything off. Well I suppose it’s definitely warm to the touch guess it could be normal temps.

[Cclark746]

These are what I used for replacement.
https://www.googleadservices.com/pag...BAgLEAo&adurl=

[Jim_HiTek]

The Storage switches are momentary On/Off (MOM switch). The solenoids they operate, two of them, one House, one Chassis (and they are usually marked with a nice label) should never be warm.

There's only a few ways they could be. One is that a MOM switch is shorted internally, and it's supplying power all the time, another is if there's a miswiring, and another way is if the main contacts are carbonized or pitted and corroded so they have a bit of resistance.

Take a DVM and measure the coil voltage for them across the small bolts or from one bolt and chassis ground...it should be zero on each solenoid. Than measure across the big bolts, the voltage should be fairly low. Below 1 volt. These are DC voltages BTW. If the storage switches are Off, then the voltage across the big bolts can float but might be near battery voltage.

[Cclark746]

I’m a little confused on your momentary statement. These relays or either closed or open. The ones I replaced or brand new. When 12v is out to the small terminals it closes the relay and lets voltage flow. I have 12.5v roughly everywhere.

[twinboat]

Many newer MH use latching solenoids and folks expect that they all do.
Latching solenoids only take a shot of power to lock on or lock off.

Its oblivious that yours doesn't use latching type and uses a contionues duty type that needs power to stay closed. That Hold in coils is what is generating the heat, not any current passing thru.

If your looking to elemenate the current draw, you can convert to latching type.

The wiring from the switch would need to be changed and the switch would need to be momentary and double pole double throw to reverse the coil current.

Here is the circuit and a latching solenoid.

[8.3Oilbuner]

Good morning Cclark746; Happy Easter to you this morning. I have the salesmen switch, White Rodgers, that Jacwjames posted in my 2001 Windsor. Yes, even with no 12V loads turned on in the coach the switch does get very warm. Had the same switch in my previous 2000 Windsor and had the very same results. So to me, the temp is normal operation.

[Cclark746]

Happy Easter to you too! Thanks that’s what I’m looking for lol!

[Cclark746]

Thank you it all makes sense now that the heat is coming from the coil!

[YC1]

Yep, heat from the coils. If you measured the current in the small leads that run them you would see from 1.5 to 2.5 amps. That is from about 15 to 30 Watts. That is a lot of heat.

Mine will burn your fingers.