Community Forums

91dynasty · 08-06-2015, 11:55 PM

I've replaced a lot of the solenoids with continuous duty. The shiney silver 4 posts in the pictures near the isolator.

Are those what you recommend to replace the isolator with? Or is a continuous duty relay something different?

Yes the alternator is externally regulated. It's the first picture in the second post. I have it removed right now. I couldn't find a replacement single wire alternator quick enough. Plus I wanted to keep it as stock as possible since I have all original paperwork for the coach if I ever choose to sell it.

91dynasty · 08-07-2015, 12:16 AM

I think you mean the solenoid/relays. My apologies it's late.. haha

Is a 4 post ok or should I try and find a 3 post 50+ amp? The 4 posts have 2 larger outside posts and 2 smaller inside posts. I'll see if I can find a 3 post, since that one seems to have a larger post in the middle where the alternator connects.

I read up on the information and basically it's a dumb switch compared to a diode isolator. The solenoids don't even draw down the volts, which isolators do.

Thanks for the suggestion!

91dynasty · 08-07-2015, 12:30 AM

Attached are links to my dropbox that has pdf files of what I've been using to wire my alternator and solve multiple other problems.

The diagrams of front and rear run plates and how to upgrade from powerline alternator to a leece Neville were provided by Monaco themselves.

The Hehr powerline troubleshooter pdf was downloaded off their website.

Front Run plate
https://www.dropbox.com/s/iz1ekn5jdh...nasty.pdf?dl=0

Rear Run Plate
https://www.dropbox.com/s/zkulgac1xb...nasty.pdf?dl=0

Alternator Upgrade from External Reg to Internal
https://www.dropbox.com/s/bszgjfnmih...grade.pdf?dl=0

Hehr Powerline Alternator Troubleshooting/wiring guide
https://www.dropbox.com/s/soml053iay...ators.pdf?dl=0

91dynasty · 08-07-2015, 12:57 AM

Hope the pictures make sense, it's late and I'm just thinking outside the box on how to do this cheap, but safe and eliminate a redundancy of another isolator or solenoid just for charging?

91dynasty · 08-07-2015, 07:20 PM

New heavy duty 'smart' solenoid -

All wires triple checked and voltage triple checked running/not running

Cracked open the alternator, looks like this reman has been sitting on the shelf for 5 years.

Everything looks brand new, brushes looked good. Seems the core is having a continuity problem.

Having it rebuilt tomorrow morning by a local shop that specializes in these.

NHRA225 · 08-18-2015, 04:55 PM

Did you go to sleep on us ?

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91dynasty · 08-18-2015, 05:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by NHRA225

Did you go to sleep on us ?

Sent from my iPhone using iRV2 - RV Forum

I did not, my apologies. Went camping twice so far

Water leak - fixed itself.

Alternator - Fixed itself

Fuel problem - Replaced fuel filter and fixed itself. No more hard cold start or dying problems.

After driving it for about 1000 miles now the biggest problem is brakes.

They got soft on me going down a hill a few times and I literally couldn't stop.

Everything works in motorhome so far, scrubbed fridge clean for a few hours.
Works off LP or elec.

Had generator running for almost 4 days off and on while at a music Festival and no hiccups.

Kinda just sitting back and relaxing since I've been working on this thing for 3 weeks straight.

I ordered a kit to drop the table down into a bed, so a swivel hinge instead of the fixed hinge that's on it.

I need to clean up and remount the driver's side mirror. Looks like it was ripped off once and they tried redrilling it and it's loose.

Going to look at some other ideas, the drop down from overhead mirrors that you see on some newer models, see if those work?

NHRA225 · 08-18-2015, 05:59 PM

Awesome glad it's working out, wifey is probably happy too !
These things are a work in process !

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91dynasty · 08-18-2015, 06:34 PM

Reading up on adjusting the brakes. Take air brake off and hard pump brakes 10 times, while air pressure is 100+ should adjust the slack?

I had/have a CDL endorsement and have driven semi's. I know how quickly those things can stop even fully loaded. It feels like the motorhome isnt' even doing 10% of that without heating up quickly.

I'm worried there is less material and that's why it's heating up so fast?

Vanwill · 08-19-2015, 09:00 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 91dynasty

Reading up on adjusting the brakes. Take air brake off and hard pump brakes 10 times, while air pressure is 100+ should adjust the slack?

I had/have a CDL endorsement and have driven semi's. I know how quickly those things can stop even fully loaded. It feels like the motorhome isnt' even doing 10% of that without heating up quickly.

I'm worried there is less material and that's why it's heating up so fast?

Daniel,

I recently made a post about what I felt was excessive pedal pressure required to get reasonable braking. You might want to read that. Long story short, I got a huge increase in braking force AND a reduction in required pedal pressure without replacing a single part. I have to admit, though, that brake work is not for the faint of heart. Just getting the lug nuts loose can sometimes be a challenge. And the brake drums themselves weigh 100#+. But there is no rocket science involved, despite the admonitions of PAP's (Pontificating Apocalypse Predictors) warning you that you are not competent to do the job.

HOWEVER, your description of your brakes "going soft" after descending a hill sounds more like classic brake fade due to heat. If that is the case, you can usually smell the brakes after you stop. Even coaches with very high mileage frequently have no need of brake lining replacement. I recall years ago when I first encountered a steep grade and realized that one must engage the exhaust brake and stay in a lower gear VERY EARLY in the descent. I don't recall if you mentioned having an exhaust brake and whether it was working correctly. A few of the early Monaco's did not have an "automatic" exhaust brake which applied the brake AND shifted to a lower gear. One had to apply the exhaust brake and then downshift manually.

Harry_ag · 11-16-2020, 01:30 PM

I like you guys. We just bought a 1993 Monaco Dynasty and I am reading all the threads with interest. Guess what, Alternator does not seem to work and tachometer does not seem to work. Before I post I will lurk a bit more. :-)

Quote:

Originally Posted by Vanwill

Daniel, I'm not sure from reading your posts whether you have changed fuel filters or not. Many here will advise you to do so before heading out again, especially if you have used any fuel additive that might actually "kill" your bacteria, but cause it to become an even greater problem with clogging filters.

There are many things that one can have in his "emergency spare parts" kit, but almost everyone will agree you need at least one set of both fuel filters. In your case, I would have TWO sets, and the tools necessary to change them. And I would change them both immediately to get the experience of what is involved, so that you can more easily do it on the side of the road, if necessary.

You can read in many places how to pre-fill the filters to avoid entrapping air in the system, which can cause you a lot of grief in getting the engine re-started. Also, never change both filters at one time. Change the primary, restart the engine and let it run a few minutes before changing the secondary.

Good luck in your new "hobby", Daniel. You seem quite capable of handling most anything that comes along, and most folks on this forum are eager to help you with anything new to you or that you don't understand. You will no doubt sooner or later get a stinging post from a "Pontificating Apocalypse Predictor" advising you that you are not qualified to perform some maintenance procedure, and if you attempt it horrific catastrophe will surely result. Disregard them, educate yourself on the procedure, ask help if you care to, and trust your own abilities. I've lost track of the number of things I've been told I should not do myself. Every one of those things turned out better than if I had entrusted them to someone else. And I learned something each time.

guardrail53 · 11-16-2020, 07:16 PM

The alternator does both, so getting it rebuilt is the way to go! Had mine done, and has worked good ever since! Check the wires and the ground first, making sure they are clean and tight! Rail!

153stars · 11-16-2020, 08:34 PM

You dug deep to revise this old thread.... last post 2015 hope OP 91er did ok it went dead , sad I was rooting for him. I read a whole bunch .
Go ahead and ask for some help try to get a pic of alternator tag . His had external regulator, next used were Leece neville, duvac type system or could be converted to delco 28si. I can't tell what year had what changes.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Harry_ag

I like you guys. We just bought a 1993 Monaco Dynasty and I am reading all the threads with interest. Guess what, Alternator does not seem to work and tachometer does not seem to work. Before I post I will lurk a bit more. :-)