1992 Monaco Dynasty Switch Identification

[idiocracy]

I am working my way through this thing and am at the point where I need some help identifying what switches do. I know there isn't a lot of standardization in this industry so I am just hoping some of you can help me out or point me in the right direction (as you have been doing on my other questions).

In the pic on the top left, this switch is in the stairwell, I think thats a switch to go between battery power and shore power? It just says Off /On, and the handle isn't oriented toward either of them. Can someone roughly define what should happen when I flip this switch?

In the pic on the top right, the three switch set, best I can figure is retractable stair function with the door switch. but I feel like we don't need three switches for that. Any idea what switches in that location usually do?

On the Systems Monitor II panel, the Generator start switch works. The Battery/LP status works. The holding tank indicators never light up. is there a certain config that the RV needs to be in for those to work?

In the same pic, the 4 switches to the left of the monitor panel, are those just light / power switches? Do they work only on shore power or should they work all the time?

And lastly, the Tstat pic...when should that work? I have two ACs that function via knobs on the roof units on shore power.

Thanks again for any help.

[jacwjames]

Due to the age of the coach these will be purely guesses on my part.


From reading your post it seems that you aren't familiar with how most RV's are wired. There are basically two electrical systems. One is a 12 volt DC system which include general lighting and support type appliances which use 12 volt. Appliances like water heater, stove, refrigerator use 12 volt to operate. There will be a 12 vdc battey bank that will provide power to these appliances.

The second system is the 120 volt AC system. This is required for anything that needs 120 vac to operate such as Air conditioning, microwave, etc.

There may also be an Inverter that will take a 12 vdc power supply and invert it to an 120 volt AC. You can tell you have an inverter is you can operate a things out of the outlets without being plugged into shore power.



The first switch may be a battery disconnect switch. Turn it off/on and see if this affects the 12 volt system.
The switches at the front door could be for the front step, outside porch light, and possibly some general lights in the front. This is what mine has.

Not sure on the the switches for the tank monitors, mine light up when I check tank levels. You might check for a fuse.
The thermostat picture may control a ceiling vent fan. I have a Koolmatic type vent fan that uses a similar thermostat. I can set it to control the fan to come on based on temperature but I also have a control knob on the vent fan itself, which turns it on and changes the 3 speed fan. We use this fan a lot as it can be operated in any weather condition.

[idiocracy]

Thanks for the info. You are spot on, I am not familiar with RV wiring. I will get back out there and see if I can start making some connections (dad joke).

[153stars]

That's a super heavy duty switch is there battery size cables going to it. It's about the size of my start battery disconnect. Like 1000amp momentary. Did you ever figure where both sets of batteries are at. I have heavy cables to front feeds genny, RVA jacks and front run bay chassis side. I cant be sure how close a 92 is to 95.

[idiocracy]

Originally Posted by 153stars

That's a super heavy duty switch is there battery size cables going to it. It's about the size of my start battery disconnect. Like 1000amp momentary. Did you ever figure where both sets of batteries are at. I have heavy cables to front feeds genny, RVA jacks and front run bay chassis side. I cant be sure how close a 92 is to 95.

So I haven't figured that out yet. I have not been able to locate a second set of batteries. I have one set behind the rear pass. tire that are very large batteries. I think they are a pair of 6v because there is a Pos to Pos wire (looks to be wired in series for 12v). I have been all over this RV and haven't seen another battery???

I am taking this thing camping from the 9th - 12th with a bunch of friends, so hopefully we can do a bit of drinking and exploring!

[153stars]

How many caps on batt.... 3 on 6 v and 6 on 12v . in series is neg to pos between batts . Then battery leads each battery.

[ClubHaulin]

I also have a 1992 38' Monaco Dynasty. Mine has a bus style front entry door, yours appears to have an amidship entry door. The switch functions should be very similar;

1) That heavy duty on-off switch does not appear to be original, though likely functions the same. On mine, it's a 12v "house battery" shut off switch. Mine is electric and operates a large solenoid disconnect in the back. The purpose is to limit battery drain when away, as well as provide a central way to turn off all 12v accessories. The contacts (even after cleaning) on my solenoid do not always make connection when hearing it engage, requiring to rock switch several (many) times to trigger. I wouldn't be surprised if the same happened go yours and someone along the way retrofitted a manual shut off switch in place. The "handle" points opposite of the function (IOW opposite the handle is an "arrow")

2) The 3 switch set at entry door; outboard is the exterior"porch" light above door. Middle is the retractable step. Inboard is the stairwell lighting as well as the light for exterior "Monaco" grab handle. It appears yours may have two stairwell lights, mine only has one. It also looks like the shield/cover on ledge under switches. They have a deflector to shine light down. Note that the retractable steps extend when door opens all the time. Flipping the switch on leaves them in extend position even when door is closed. This saves wear and time from steps constantly moving when parked and going in/out. Be sure to turn switch off before moving motorhome

3) The Systems Monitor II panel only lights when the "test" switch is held in up position, and even then only when tanks are full enough to at least the "low" sensor level (caveat that the coach also has sufficient 12v house power, and not disconnected). The "low med full" act as a sort of rudimentary bar graph, getting brighter higher up as the levels increase. Worth mentioning, the "low/ok" battery gauge is useless for any sort of actual boondocking battery level monitoring. As a means of getting better info at a glance, I hardwired a basic voltage display into the panel's test function. It's essentially like using a multimeter to check voltage at that location. There is about a .15 voltage drop from battery bank to the panel. Other items of note; the "pump" light will illuminate when pump switch is on, even if pump is not running (it's an on demand pump), and basically means "pump is ready". Turn it off when away/on road to avoid a mess if water leak occurs. Also the generator switch, just like the dash, one direction is preheat/stop, other direction is start (and the dash directions are opposite of Systems Monitor II). If your coach also has a Kubota D905/Kohler 7CC0, a few seconds of preheat will help it start quicker. Don't hold preheat for longer than 10 seconds, don't crank starter for longer than 15 seconds without 60 second cooldown

4) Switches near Systems Monitor II; mine only has 3. The left is on/off for "living room" ceiling 12v florescent lights (which can then be individually switched on/off at light). The right "on/off" is for the 12v florescent light cluster above kitchen sink. The middle (blank, no "on/off) is a 3-way for the rear most (of 3, the other 2 are turned on via switch in bathroom) 12v florescent lights in bathroom. The other 3-way switch for these is on a 2-switch panel in bedroom alongside the main bedroom 12v ceiling florescent lights. The idea being you can get out of bed and light up the bathroom before going in, as well as have light as making way up front to door where they can then be turned off

5) That wall mounted thermostat is only for the propane furnace for heat. As you noted, each roof A/C unit has it's own temp and fan speed controls. If your units are "Duo-Therm", they have an "Opt. Heat" setting. This does not run the A/C compressor, but rather an electric heating element inside the duct to blow warm air. The electric heaters in both units will not heat the entire coach very well when temps actually get cold, but it can be a way to save propane if have full hookups available. Other systems that operate via propane are the stove and water heater (electric ignition). That's the "W.H." switch near sink, the red light indicates burner is on/trying to light. The other switch for "silent AC power" is the inverter, which will provide limited 120v power to various (not all) outlets. The inverter will not run A/C nor microwave (as originally wired/equipped)

I took similar pictures of my coach to show as examples but they don't appear to be uploading

[idiocracy]

Dude, this is amazing! Thank you VERY much for the time and the detail you put into that! It helps me significantly as I am learning this beast!

[ClubHaulin]

No problem! You're very welcome, it's great to see more of these vintage Monaco coaches around