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04-16-2020, 09:15 PM
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#29
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2019
Location: Braidwood Il.
Posts: 8,300
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I just discovered my 95 rig has small 12v fuse panel behind control center above my fridge. The wooden cover is hinged at top and cabinet pressure latches at bottom. I popped open with flat blade screwdriver.
Was checking original solar charge panel ,putting out good voltage ,not showing any amps.
__________________
95 Monaco Crown Royale
M11 400hp, 4060 trans.
Aquahot, Generac Guardian7.5k
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04-21-2020, 09:51 AM
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#30
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Member
Join Date: May 2015
Posts: 60
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update
Team - Lots going on getting to know this awesome classic rig!
1. See picture of air-gap between lower stair and door frame. What is the best way to fill this? High density foam?
2. Storage Bins: I found that nearly all the bins were not really "engaging" with the retractable tongues. I fixed this with a flat-tip screwdriver. However - now - one bin is stuck CLOSED. One side of the retractable latch is remaining engaged. Any ideas on how to pop this loose?
3. How to disassembly the Storage Bin Handle? I could not find a youtube video on this one, but I could find one for replacing the retractor-pieces.
4. How to "pop-off/remove" one of the Day/night accordion shades? The metal clips are holding it in extremely tight.
Otherwise - all good! Lots of elbow grease cleaning things, etc.
Thanks,Jim
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04-21-2020, 09:33 PM
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#31
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Senior Member
Monaco Owners Club Vintage RV Owners Club
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: anywhere U.S.A, Currently back home in Thailand!
Posts: 4,245
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Jim, the first question, fit a piece of angle iron in the gap all the across the bottom of the step and the door frame, and weld it in! no welder? Drill and bolt it in!
Second and third question's? Sorry, mine has the single handle/latch in the middle and it has a plunger that goes down, into a striker plate, that holds the compartment door closed.
Forth question, take the side valances off, just a few screws, then you can get to the D/N shade, and use a slim putty knife/screw driver to persuade the D/N shade to play nice!
Have fun! Rail!
__________________
Retired, and "Always on Holiday!"
1996 Monaco Windsor 38PB, "Mona" 275 HP., 8.3 Cummins, 3060 Allison 6 speed, 2001 PT Cruiser, "Bailey"
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04-21-2020, 10:50 PM
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#32
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2011
Posts: 125
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim Woodward
Team - Lots going on getting to know this awesome classic rig!
1. See picture of air-gap between lower stair and door frame. What is the best way to fill this? High density foam?
2. Storage Bins: I found that nearly all the bins were not really "engaging" with the retractable tongues. I fixed this with a flat-tip screwdriver. However - now - one bin is stuck CLOSED. One side of the retractable latch is remaining engaged. Any ideas on how to pop this loose?
3. How to disassembly the Storage Bin Handle? I could not find a youtube video on this one, but I could find one for replacing the retractor-pieces.
4. How to "pop-off/remove" one of the Day/night accordion shades? The metal clips are holding it in extremely tight.
Otherwise - all good! Lots of elbow grease cleaning things, etc.
Thanks,Jim
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#1 on the right of the gap is a stand seal used in the automotive industries. Simple google search might find something
#2 I have center latches. I also have full length bays so if I need to fix I would do it by crawling through from the other side.
#4 same answer as Jim
__________________
Tony G.
98 Monaco Dynasty
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04-23-2020, 10:01 AM
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#33
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Member
Join Date: May 2015
Posts: 60
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Gents - storage Bin issue solved. I'm going to describe this in some detail so future searches:
1. Right Side Storage Bin Door was stuck shut. The pull handle and retractable linkage operation is intact - everything working normal. However, The Forward Latch was not retracting far enough to clear the Aluminum Angle engagement piece.
2. With me on the inside pushing out, and my friend on the outside opening the handle and pulling up, we were able to "convince" LOL the door to open.
3. Analysis: At least for this 1995 era of Monaco, every bin door is different. The backside of the door (on every door) is shifted slightly fore/aft in the frame openings; however, the "retractable-latches" operate with a fixed amount of throw. Because the doors are all uniquely "not-centered" in the frame openings, the factory did the following: they install "different/varying-length" AL angles on the frame, to "catch" the retractable slam-latch.
4. Solution: Considering all aspects of this design; the simplest modification to ensure this will not happen again, was to take a Dremel Sanding Drum, and grind-off about 1/16" of the retractable plastic tip/plunger.
5. Corollary: If you have a door bin and the handle & retractable latches are all working as intended/perfectly, yet one side is not engaging; my suggestion is to remove the AL Angle catch and add washers underneath it, so it will move closer to the retractable pin.
Thanks,
Jim
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05-21-2020, 05:19 PM
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#34
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Senior Member
Monaco Owners Club
Join Date: Sep 2016
Posts: 1,055
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jim,
sorry for the delay in reading your latch comments, but thx very much for walking us through the details. one of my bay latches is acting up so i’ll give it a go.
hope you’re settling in well with your new coach!
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05-22-2020, 04:26 AM
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#35
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2019
Location: Braidwood Il.
Posts: 8,300
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Does your cruise control have just two switches or is there a third for raise idle.
If two only I have a manual for it I think its King cruise off top of my head . My cruise is for fly by wire system not a cable throttle the book was for 300hp cummins version I have 400 hp M11. My speedometer suddenly quit as well I'll keep you posted. There is a fuse in drivers side elect. bay for cruise control.
PM me if you need cruise book or a little more info to download it .
__________________
95 Monaco Crown Royale
M11 400hp, 4060 trans.
Aquahot, Generac Guardian7.5k
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05-22-2020, 09:52 AM
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#36
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Member
Join Date: May 2015
Posts: 60
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Amazing Update: Wring-out trip to Denver
IRV2 Team - amazing wring-out trip; Few pics to follow:
About 3.5 weeks ago, my friend in Arvada (Denver) and I were discussing the Rig and my plan for full time city dwelling. While keeping "power-notes", which appliances I was using, etc., it quickly became evident that two things were taking place (not totally unexpected):
1. I wasn't running the engine enough to charge the engine battery stack (two Interstates from Costco that came with it).
2. The two 6V golf cart batteries were not sufficient to do anything but run a few lights.
3. Essentially, using the Rig full time would require running the generator & engine everyday some amount more than I was anticipating.
Answer? Made a quick decision, and within 3 hours, the GF and I were in the Rig heading to Arvada for a "Power-Grid" upgrade. Details to come and pics.
Jim
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05-22-2020, 09:55 AM
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#37
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Member
Join Date: May 2015
Posts: 60
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Wring out trip pics 2
Wring out trip 2
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05-22-2020, 09:57 AM
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#38
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Member
Join Date: May 2015
Posts: 60
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wring out trip pics 3
Pics 3 of wring out trip
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05-22-2020, 09:59 AM
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#39
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Member
Join Date: May 2015
Posts: 60
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Pics 4 Wring out Trip
Pics 4 of Denver Wring Out trip
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05-22-2020, 10:01 AM
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#40
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Member
Join Date: May 2015
Posts: 60
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Pics 5 of Trip
Pics 5 of Trip to Denver
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05-22-2020, 10:06 AM
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#41
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Member
Join Date: May 2015
Posts: 60
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Pics 6 of Wring out trip: Power Upgrade
Here is what happened. Left Tuesday afternoon, drove out of Los Angeles, Barstow, Kingman, Flagstaff, Alburquerque, Santa Fe, Detur to see some friend, than back to Santa Fe, then up to Arvada. Took 2.5 days.
While driving, the engine batteries failed to be able to start the engine. Had to use the "cross-over" battery assist. All things (minus the Cruise Control), seemed to be working well. I took it slow, then gradually crept up into 60-65. Learned out to drive hills up and down
Got to Arvada, and my friend, whom I hadn't seen in 18 years, quickly hoped into the Rig, under, over, all around, with a Volt Meter, and we reviewed the battery situations.
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05-22-2020, 10:11 AM
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#42
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Member
Join Date: May 2015
Posts: 60
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Using the original Electrical schematic, very quickly determined two things:
1. The Battery Isolator, which is located in the Engine Bay, had "failed" on one half of it. Thus, the result is that the Alternator was only trickle-charging the Engine Batteries, rather than hitting them at higher AMPs.
2. The persons whom installed the Engine Batteries, failed to wire them in parallel correctly (they were parallel, but the Engine was pulling Pos/Neg off of 1 battery, rather than splitting the Pos to one battery, and the Neg to the other.)
We tossed out all batteries, and headed to the Battery store - purchased 2 Deca 8D AGM Starting batteries. Intent being these would be wired in Parallel correctly, and I would never have an engine starting problem again.
Battery Isolator: We move the Alternator Positive wire from the "Middle" to the "Forward" post, thus using the "working" 1/2 of the Isolator hence forth. We verified the genius of this by checking battery voltage and AMPS going to the "Engine Batteries," when engine running - now batteries are receiving 36 AMPS from the Alternator for charging, rather than the "trickle" charge witnessed upon arrival.
......
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