1997 Monaco Dynasty CAC and Radiator Part Numbers

[jacwjames]

Rightstuffer
I did a search for radiator CAC removal in a Monaco and found this, I forgot about it. Getting old I guess.


It is a thread that I was involved with in 2016, this was right after I had my radiator/CAC R&R. It has some good information. The original poster had other problems that I corresponded with him over the course of a couple months.

https://www.irv2.com/forums/f84/99-m...al-282997.html


Look at post #14, I provided some insight on what I observed when I visited the Cummins shop while mine was beinr worked on.

There are several good pictures throughout the thread. Although this is a Windsor it will be very close to your Dynasty.

[Rightstuffer]

Originally Posted by jacwjames

Rightstuffer
I did a search for radiator CAC removal in a Monaco and found this, I forgot about it. Getting old I guess.


It is a thread that I was involved with in 2016, this was right after I had my radiator/CAC R&R. It has some good information. The original poster had other problems that I corresponded with him over the course of a couple months.

https://www.irv2.com/forums/f84/99-m...al-282997.html


Look at post #14, I provided some insight on what I observed when I visited the Cummins shop while mine was beinr worked on.

There are several good pictures throughout the thread. Although this is a Windsor it will be very close to your Dynasty.

Jim,

Thank you for posting that here! I have read that thread many times over the last year, and consider that to be the best instructions so far.

I am going to combine his information, with the remove the CAC first method. Then I am going to remove the fan assembly. Hopefully with just the radiator and metal shroud assembly left, it will be easier to drop with just a small floor jack.

I talked to my landlord yesterday, and he said he could bring a tractor with fork lift attachment over when we are ready.

Now the problem is the RV with not start, so I can turn around in driveway, to allow room for this to happen. Right now, the drivers side is next to a fence, so this is no longer an option.

Since the return from the Cummins engine swap, my batteries are no longer charging with the generator. In the past, (Before we got 3 new matching batteries.), I could jump from my car. No Longer.

I no longer hear the engine being primed, when you turn on key. Here is what Cummins notated on my invoice:
"PK150 BEN 6-24-2020
Found fuel shut off solenoid had been rewired. Found were homemade connection belonged. Started engine no leaks found. Steam cleaned Unit and Radiator......"
B.S.!!!!! What ever they did, it screwed up my coach, and if my Radiator was steam cleaned, I am the King of Siam. No way, no how they cleaned the Radiator. Before the motor R&R, you just had to turn the key, wait for the light to go off, and turn key without touching the accelerator, and she would start every time.

The motor turns over, but will not start, when being jumped. The generator will no longer run longer than 20-30 minutes, before the batteries are completely drained, and the generator shuts off.

So I have many problems now!

Because the rebuilding of the CAC and Radiator are more expensive, it is my priority to do that first. So no forklift option for R&R of the CAC and Radiator.

[veraken]

Just replaced the fuel shutoff solenoid in mine. You can just disconnect the solenoid and hold it open with a wire.

[Rightstuffer]

Originally Posted by veraken

Just replaced the fuel shutoff solenoid in mine. You can just disconnect the solenoid and hold it open with a wire.

Vera,

Thank you so much for the help!

I have two possible issues here; my batteries are shot, and/or no fuel being pumped. Charles sent me this picture on what you described, so I will try to locate the fuel solenoid, and wire open, then try to jump the engine.

Since my house and engine batteries are connected, hopefully all batteries will charge!

[Rightstuffer]

Update 08/11/2020

I was able to get the 97 Monaco Dynasty started, and turned around in preparation for CAC and Radiator removal!!!

In the past, before we replaced all three batteries, I was able to jump start, using my small car(s). Since the return from Cummins for the used engine swap, batteries are dead only after 2-3 days.

I bought a cheap charger off of Amazon, and charged each battery for 24 hours on the auto setting. Before charging, Each battery was 6 volts or less. Immediately after charging, all batteries showed 13 volts.

My old girl started effortlessly! So it was not the fuel shutoff solenoid, just dead batteries.

Now the engine battery stays fully charged, and the two house batteries drain back down in less than 2 days of none use. So next I will have to find the short, or voltage drain.

Good news is, I was able to turn the RV around, in preparation for the cooling stack removal. This means my landlord can now use his tractor with fork lift attachment to help me, once ready to drop.

Tested fan speed today with remote laser tach, and it shows 660 RPMs on startup, and once I let idle for an hour or two, with around 180 degree water temps, the RPMs go up to 997.

Now I just need to come up lots of 2 X 12 boards, so I can jack up and block, before I perform R&R on cooling stack.

Slow going, but making progress. I am amazed how many senior citizens here have performed the CAC and Radiator removal by themselves! Just crawling under the RV to perform RPM checks, hurts my back so bad, it takes a day to recuperate.

Hopefully once the rear is raised and blocked, I can get up underneath,and sit up, inside the engine compartment, to work on.

Oh yea, the current daily temps in the DFW Metroplex are 98-102 degrees before adding heat indexes. The heat index will be 107 degrees today with a Ozone Action Alert for poor air quality. If I start at 7:00 am, temps are 82 degrees, with the adjusted temp index of 87 degrees. I can only work outside for a couple hours max per day.

[10Boomer]

Originally Posted by Rightstuffer

Update 08/11/2020



I was able to get the 97 Monaco Dynasty started, and turned around in preparation for CAC and Radiator removal!!!



In the past, before we replaced all three batteries, I was able to jump start, using my small car(s). Since the return from Cummins for the used engine swap, batteries are dead only after 2-3 days.



I bought a cheap charger off of Amazon, and charged each battery for 24 hours on the auto setting. Before charging, Each battery was 6 volts or less. Immediately after charging, all batteries showed 13 volts.



My old girl started effortlessly! So it was not the fuel shutoff solenoid, just dead batteries.



Now the engine battery stays fully charged, and the two house batteries drain back down in less than 2 days of none use. So next I will have to find the short, or voltage drain.



Good news is, I was able to turn the RV around, in preparation for the cooling stack removal. This means my landlord can now use his tractor with fork lift attachment to help me, once ready to drop.



Tested fan speed today with remote laser tach, and it shows 660 RPMs on startup, and once I let idle for an hour or two, with around 180 degree water temps, the RPMs go up to 997.



Now I just need to come up lots of 2 X 12 boards, so I can jack up and block, before I perform R&R on cooling stack.



Slow going, but making progress. I am amazed how many senior citizens here have performed the CAC and Radiator removal by themselves! Just crawling under the RV to perform RPM checks, hurts my back so bad, it takes a day to recuperate.



Hopefully once the rear is raised and blocked, I can get up underneath,and sit up, inside the engine compartment, to work on.



Oh yea, the current daily temps in the DFW Metroplex are 98-102 degrees before adding heat indexes. The heat index will be 107 degrees today with a Ozone Action Alert for poor air quality. If I start at 7:00 am, temps are 82 degrees, with the adjusted temp index of 87 degrees. I can only work outside for a couple hours max per day.

Glad to hear Paul, getting started is a big deal. I’ll post some updates on my thread about some issues I found along the way during my repair. In process of assembly.

[Rightstuffer]

Originally Posted by 10Boomer

Glad to hear Paul, getting started is a big deal. I’ll post some updates on my thread about some issues I found along the way during my repair. In process of assembly.

Thanks Perry! Look forward to your next posts! This forum is a real life saver for me. (Pre 2000 Monaco Owner=No Factory Support!)

This repair has taken months to research and weeks to plan out. Because of my limited working window per day, and a day of rest between each work days, I will have to do it as efficiently as possible with limited tools, help, and horrible working environment.

I used to write technical and operations manuals for military aircraft applications, so I will be documenting everything, and re-writing the order for each step, until it is as accurate as possible for the 97 Dynasty. (Written step by step Instructions, Tools List, Bill of Materials, Photos and Videos.)

[Rightstuffer]

Well...I tried to clean my 97 Monaco Dynasty side radiator and CAC agian. I figured I would give it one last try to fix my terminal overheating issues, or at least clean the system before disassembly.

Here are the videos (Parts 1-3), and I think cleaning using the Simple Green and Dawn technique will just not work, if the radiator is clogged as bad as mine is.

https://youtu.be/ZMm5rmSn4SI
https://youtu.be/2tEtXS1MQgM
https://youtu.be/HWUIuQMxLTM

All you long time RV owners can skip to parts 2 and 3, and really see just how bad my problem is.

Dropping the cooling stack is next, and I hope my CAC and Radiator can be professionally cleaned and repaired, and that I can afford it.

If not, I will find cheaper more efficient modern replacements. I refuse to replace with the same expensive exact part numbers, because the design of the original cooling stack is impossible to properly clean, and maybe even if it works perfectly, can not cool my coach in temperatures over 100 degrees on flat roads, even before trying to climb steep grades.

On Friday we saw 107 actual air temps, before adding the heat index. Yesterday it was 104.

I might end up with bigger parts, electric cooling fans, and even a possible slide out tray for the entire cooling stack, so that I can properly clean and maintain the newer, more efficient parts.

[Rightstuffer]

And the saga continues...look what I found when I pulled the lower radiator hose in preparation to remove the cooling stack (CAC & Radiator):
https://youtu.be/mr5uqk6j9HY

YIKES:bang head:

This is after 6 complete cooling system flushes!!!

The inside of my radiator must look as bad, or worse.

Hoping the CAC and Radiator can be re-cored, but if not will modify entire system to modern, more effective and cheaper parts.

Here are the videos of the CAC removal so far:
https://youtu.be/W5t1MgByuh4
https://youtu.be/OvE4Jmeazu4
https://youtu.be/yUZow-VXMgQ
https://youtu.be/7WbeI555nBw
https://youtu.be/-cLqn3KbJVg
https://youtu.be/5IilyqDZsaY
https://youtu.be/WhzEKoXRVl4
https://youtu.be/HrI88JxouSU
https://youtu.be/xbBpMaprb70
https://youtu.be/LGOxNMtsqAc
https://youtu.be/wK3IZtrgplQ
https://youtu.be/4KXfdJ9A7Uk
https://youtu.be/X-XjhkwimS8
https://youtu.be/2XWUBToHNac
https://youtu.be/8MtgUswVuSM
https://youtu.be/jYw2eOYkcsQ
https://youtu.be/rt1OeGA5f40
https://youtu.be/RCZgtAM8gLg
https://youtu.be/A1QmYo8MXOA

[veraken]

Your videos are great and very informative. Keep them coming.

[Rightstuffer]

Originally Posted by veraken

Your videos are great and very informative. Keep them coming.

Thanks, I wish I had time to edit them. Just trying to post in real time, so people with experience can chime in with helpful hints or tricks.

Well we did it...cut into the body of our coach!

Here is how we did it:
CAC Body Mod:
https://youtu.be/PtCVeyOC6-Q
https://youtu.be/9uxl8cJfkZ0
https://youtu.be/mAgayI9b6xQ
https://youtu.be/tjJpIT2wnzU
https://youtu.be/yyRpV6qJdy4
https://youtu.be/9hg9OhEsb2c
https://youtu.be/BNFxEcF64Pc
https://youtu.be/Zsy-betNCA8
https://youtu.be/G5CTTXQfYj0

Now it will be much easier and safer to remove the cooling stack, without having to jack-up and block the rear of the RV. Also, if modified parts go back in, we now have more access to FAB UP the new mounting hardware required.

[tommar]

Paul, hopefully it will start cooling down soon. Hopefully, I'll be able to stop by and give you some help and especially, moral support. Just learned that my DS shares your hydraulic fans. Dunno if that is good or bad? Anyways, good luck and god bless on your rebuild endeavor!

[tommar]

Just finished reviewing some of your videos.... I'm not in the situation you're in as my coach cools normally at about 180 degrees... but... it's 22 years old this year, I've owned it for 3.5 years and have no idea if or when the rad hoses were ever replaced. So this winter, I am planning to have the entire rad stack cleaned (in place, I hope) new hoses, a flush, and all new ECL antifreeze. Have no idea on the cost yet, but I know I don't have a way of doing this myself! That's why I'd like to try and help you out and do what I can!

[Rightstuffer]

Originally Posted by tommar

Just finished reviewing some of your videos.... I'm not in the situation you're in as my coach cools normally at about 180 degrees... but... it's 22 years old this year, I've owned it for 3.5 years and have no idea if or when the rad hoses were ever replaced. So this winter, I am planning to have the entire rad stack cleaned (in place, I hope) new hoses, a flush, and all new ECL antifreeze. Have no idea on the cost yet, but I know I don't have a way of doing this myself! That's why I'd like to try and help you out and do what I can!

Tommar,
Thank you so much for the offer to help!
I hope I can help you with your coach as well.

My wife and I got the cooling stack out of the coach today!

I will be posting the videos of the actual CAC & Radiator removal later tonight.

I can tell you, if you are dealing with original hoses on your Dutch Star, you are in for lots of fun.

All of my hoses are rotted on. Meaning, when you try to pull them off the flange, the hose ends tear, and bind up on the metal flanges. Also I am not sure that the upper radiator hose can be replaced, without removal of the entire cooling stack. There is very little room to remove the hose, and on the radiator end, there is a radiator bolt, pressing up against the hose.

But like anything, it can be done. I have prepared instructions, that includes materials list, tools needed, and 25 steps for the removal of the cooling stack.

Through our PMs, I know we share physical disabilities, as well as just getting old. This is a hard job, but if this crazy old fart and his wife can do it, in 106 degree temperatures, outside with no level ground, anyone can do it, with a little help.

So when you are ready to work on yours, I will share all data, advice, and if possible a lending hand to work on your coach.

The instructions and videos are next of the final removal today.