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Old 07-18-2020, 10:47 AM   #1
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1997 Monaco Dynasty CAC and Radiator Part Numbers

Does anyone have the original or OEM replacement part numbers for the CAC and radiator on the 97 38í Monaco Dynasty with 325 Cummins engine? (Left side radiator) After months of searching the forums, there is great information, but no part numbers for this year model.

We suffered an overheating issue, and lost our engine. With the help from Charles (Cry42), we were able to find a used engine, and had Cummins replace it. Cummins never found any reason for the overheat, but did check the CAC, and said it would only hold 5 Lbs. of air pressure, but that would not cause the overheating.

On way back from the breakdown and engine replacement, the engine overheated again, several times. The hydraulic fans are turning, all new fluid and filter, cleaned the radiator and CAC, using method found in forums.
Anytime the outside temperature is over 90 degrees, and running only at 1700 rpms, not exceeding 60 mph, she overheats.

I plan on replacing everything in the cooling system, a part at a time due to our finances. Cannot afford the average $3,000-$6,000 plus for the fix, as many others here in forum have done.

There are many sources listed for the replacement CAC and radiator, but all I have called require the part numbers before they will send the blueprints to verify measurements.

It is currently 100 degrees outside every day here in Texas, so my wife and I can not remove the old parts first, to get the measurements and/or part numbers. I need to order the parts over time, and once it gets tolerable outside, perform the replacements all at one time.

Any help would be greatly appreciated!
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Old 07-18-2020, 11:08 AM   #2
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I assume your Dynasty is a side radiator. Seldom hear of an overheating problem with these. Cleaning of the radiator is pretty easy, I usually use a garden hose going outside to in, then reverse doing this several times.

One thing to look for is that the radiator/CAC stack requires sheet metal on all sides to direct air through, if some is missing this could cause air to bypass.


The other thing is the fan assembly, are you sure it is working. When cold it will run at low RPM but as temp gets above 185 it will start to spool up and at ~+200 should be running high speed. If you are overheating that fast the fan should be high speed all the time.


You might contact CG&J radiator in Alabama. The maintain a data base of the replacement radiators they've manufactured for motorhomes. I had a parts diagram for my radiator but they sent me their schematic to confirm dimensions.

https://cgj.com/product-category/rad...onaco-radiator
At the time this was the best price I could find, I think I paid $2500 for an aluminum replacement. I know there is a debate as to aluminum or copper but after researching I was satisfied with an aluminum replacement.

I also had my CAC tested, it also leaked when put under pressure in a test bath but not sure what psi it held. Ended up getting it rebuild, cost was $1600. It did not improve my boost pressure so I question whether it needed to be rebuilt but while it was all apart it seemed to seem like the thing to do.

All of the cost was covered from insurance, road debris kicked up punched multiple holes in the radiator. Total cost was ~$7K.
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Old 07-19-2020, 10:43 AM   #3
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Our Covid-19 Bug Out Trip Resulted in a Nightmare

Thank you Jim (jacwjames) for your very fast reply.

My 97 Dynasty has the side radiator setup.

I will call CG&J radiator in Alabama, to see if they have the part numbers for the CAC and Radiator for my year model.

Agian, $7K is not doable for us.

My wife and I loaded up our RV with food and supplies, and were heading to the mountains in Colorado, to get away from the pandemic. Due to the fact my overflow level sensor (Under $100 part) did not work, the outside temp was 98 degrees, when the engine got to 220 degrees, I was looking for a place to pull over, since this happened every time we have driven the coach in these conditions. Unfortunately we were in the hilly section of Highway 287, in the North Texas Panhandle, so I could not immediately pull over.

The temp gauge then went to Red, then dropped, then nothing but smoke out the rear end, and loss of engine. I was able to coast to a pull off area, and then our adventure began.

It took repeated calls to GoodSam, to get a tow truck to us 8 hours later. It was now late on a Saturday night. They refused to tow us to Cummins in Amarillo due to the high cost. (140 miles away) Instead we were towed to 287 Diesel Service in Quanah, a short 10 minute drive, from our break down location. Their policy was to tow to nearest service center.

The next day, the disel tech showed up, looked at the engine bay, and stated they could not fix it, if it was a head gasket failure. Because it was Sunday, that cost $500!!! (Sunday extra charge, and minimum 3 Hours @ $150/hr.) I was furious, and it then took another 8 hours on the phone to GoodSam Roadside, demanding that they tow us to a reputable service center. They wanted to tow us another small shop 15 miles further down the road, to another mom and pop service center. After just spending $500 for nothing, I demanded to be towed to Cummins. We finally arrived at Cummins Sunday night.

After a two day back log at Cummins, they looked at the engine, and determined that I scored all 6 cylinders, the exhaust manifold was cracked, and gave us an estimate of $20,000 to re-sleeve the engine, new head, new pistons, new manifold, etc.

We only had $10K in total life savings, so we were stuck in Amarillo during the rising pandemic. This is when I reached out to Charles, (Cry42) for possible alternatives. He was so helpful, and worked day and night trying to find a cheaper solution. He found a used engine for us, and Cummins really discounted the engine swap, so that we could get back on the road to safety, using every dollar we had to our name.

The engine arrived almost a week after our initial break down, and that's when it went totally off the rails. There was shipping damage, and parts missing off the engine!

Machinery and Truck Parts (MATP) in Rockwood, TN stated that I only purchased a block and crank, and that the missing parts from their website photos where not guaranteed to ship. As to the shipping damage, there was nothing that could be done, due to the UPS driver failing to notate the shipping damage as he told the manager of Cummins and I that he did during unloading.

Well...it took over one week to get the engine replaced, and Cummins really shined throughout the process. It took every cent we had, to get back on the road, and limp home. We spent 14 days, on side of the road, in an area of Texas that was in Covid-19 denial.

So I need to come up with the cheapest repair possible. As previously stated, the average cost to replace the CAC and radiator is not an option for us. My wife and I lost our jobs due to Covid-19, so we now are on unemployment, and more money is coming in. So if can get the part numbers for the CAC and Radiator, I know I can come up with the lowest cost solution.

There are newer cheaper CACs out there. Due to the volume of heavy semi trucks, vs the smaller number of RVs, If I had the part numbers and/or drawings, I am sure that after weeks of my research, I could find a solution that is better and cheaper.

Here is just an example of a low cost heavy truck CAC:
Due to not having the specs on our equipment, this is just an unproven example, showing the semi truck CAC's are way cheaper than our RV versions:
Heavy Duty Charge Air Cooler for Peterbilt $448.00
Heavy duty charge air cooler for Peterbilt trucks
(See picture.)
Drop in replacement for:
1995 and newer 357, 379, 385 models
2001 377 model

Our part number 24025

Guaranteed perfect fit and will meet your cooling needs
Heavy duty charge air cooler
Thick aluminum cast tanks for extra durability
Heavy gage tubes for resistance to impact and corrosion
Long life alloys used for superior corrosion resistance
Core (finned area) dimensions are 33 1/2" x 30" x 2 1/4
4 inch inlet and outlet

So please, if anyone can look up their previous work, and supply the part numbers for a 1997 Monaco Dynasty CAC and Radiator, I will work for weeks to find parts that meet or exceed our specifications, at the lowest cost possible.

We really need anyone's help here with these part numbers and/or drawings!
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Old 07-19-2020, 11:15 AM   #4
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Before replacement I would have the radiator checked for leaks and cleaning. If it's not leaking I would be surprised if there was an internal problem that would cause flow restriction.



Attached is a drawing that I got from Source Engineering when I was looking for a radiator.

The part number for my radiator assembly is RS4125.

The drawing is originally dated May 99 so it may be compatible with yours. You can check the dimensions C:C for the hose connections and the diameter size.

You might check around for any local RV salvage yards and see if they have a replacement. Only problem is that they know the value and want to charge an arm and a leg.



In 2015 I checked multiple sources for a radiator and CG&J was the best I could do.


Good Luck
Attached Files
File Type: pdf RS-4125 Source Engineering drawing.pdf (314.4 KB, 4 views)
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Old 07-20-2020, 04:59 AM   #5
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Iím doing a complete swap out of radiator, CAC, hydraulic coolers to include A/C. Itís not cheap period.
Give RHS in Sweet Home, Oregon. Radiator Supply House.
They have most Monaco system combinations or replacement CAC, radiator parts.
Check around radiator shroud or ends of radiator or CAC for white stickers. Some have barcodes. This is the part number. Done CACs have a tab tacked in with same part#.
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Old 07-23-2020, 09:23 AM   #6
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Still No Part Numbers for 97 Monaco Dynasty CAC & Radiator

Quote:
Originally Posted by jacwjames View Post
Before replacement I would have the radiator checked for leaks and cleaning. If it's not leaking I would be surprised if there was an internal problem that would cause flow restriction.



Attached is a drawing that I got from Source Engineering when I was looking for a radiator.

The part number for my radiator assembly is RS4125.

The drawing is originally dated May 99 so it may be compatible with yours. You can check the dimensions C:C for the hose connections and the diameter size.

You might check around for any local RV salvage yards and see if they have a replacement. Only problem is that they know the value and want to charge an arm and a leg.



In 2015 I checked multiple sources for a radiator and CG&J was the best I could do.


Good Luck
Jim,

Thank you so much for the drawing! It is close to what I need. I have the two smaller Hydraulic fan option on my 97 Monaco Dynasty 38'. Worst case, maybe I can change over to the single fan setup, or confirm it is the same radiator, regardless of fan option.

I wish I could see the stickers on my CAC and Radiator before I took them out, so that I can slowly order these before the swap out.

I will find out the part numbers eventually, and post them here. Once I have the original part numbers, I can get the drawings from CG&J or the many other sources mentioned in other threads.

Once I have the specs, I will find a cheaper option for all us old Monaco owners, with no factory support. (Pre 2000 model years.)

I have found several CAC and Radiator options for heavy Mack, Volvo and Peterbuilt trucks for less than $1,400, new, no core. I just have to match up the specs, to ensure fit and same or better cooling characteristics.

Since I do not have the money for the $3,000-$7,000 service center replacement options, I can not fail, or will never be able to use our coach agian.

So agian, if there is any 97 Dynasty owners out there that know or can look up on a previous bill the part numbers for the CAC and radiator for the dual fan option, I will find an none RV cheaper solution for us all.
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Old 07-23-2020, 11:06 AM   #7
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The big truck rads will never fit an RV. You are stuck with a big expense. Who is going to remove the rad. It is heavy and you need help and some type of mechanical device. Are you full timing? If not why are you slending your savings on an rv? I feel for you.
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Old 07-23-2020, 01:32 PM   #8
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Looking for a Cheaper Heavy Truck Radiator and CAC

Quote:
Originally Posted by moisheh View Post
The big truck rads will never fit an RV. You are stuck with a big expense. Who is going to remove the rad. It is heavy and you need help and some type of mechanical device. Are you full timing? If not why are you slending your savings on an rv? I feel for you.
Moisheh,
Having spent every cent we have on the engine replacement, and still not fixing the overheating issue, I have no choice but to find a cheaper alternative.

That is not true, I already have found Heavy truck radiators and CACs that are the same size as other year model Dynasty's. My problem is finding out the part numbers or drawing for the 1997 version, with the dual hydraulic fans.

So they can and will fit, I just need to know what to look for. I have nothing but time, determination, and the ability to spend weeks/months thinking outside the box, to find a lower cost solution.

Today I called Calaw RV (The largest used RV salvage yard in US), because they have several 97s on the lot, looking for the part numbers. They stated they immediately recycle the radiator and CAC on coaches that old!

I also called Active Radiator in Dallas, because they have published drawings on Monaco Radiators, but nothing documented for the the Dynasty, much less the 97. (See pictures)

Agian, If anyone can help on the 97, I will find a heavy truck cheaper alternative. It might take some re-use of the old mounting hardware, or even new fabricated brackets and stuff, but it will be thousands cheaper, than the more expensive RV alternatives, that many have posted in other forums.

My wife and I are forced to do the labor ourselves, and I am old and disabled. We where headed out to give full time RVing a shot, due to the Covid-19 crisis, but blew up our engine in the process. I have read every post on the swap out, and I am scared that we do not have a fork lift, but agian, we have no choice, due to spending our life savings on the engine replacement, will use a floor jack and/or host of some kind.

Being an old out of work aircraft tech, engineer and designer, once I figure this out, I will find a way for two old farts with little money to pull this off, and share my results so that people that can afford the normal way, will have an option to save some money.

I may be new to RVs, but in the last two years of ownership, I have learned anything RV is much more expensive than the heavy commercial truck alternatives, even if it is the exact same part.

That's a good question! It was our dream to go live off grid, utilizing free BLM camping, with occasional RV parks to dump and fill water tanks, in order to live as cheap as possible. We bought a very cheap RV ($10K under average cost for our year model), two years ago when we both still had jobs, and some savings. We are too stupid and crazy to give up now.
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Old 07-23-2020, 03:29 PM   #9
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I admire your tenacity and hope ypu are able to find a cheap rad. The location of the hose outlets is also important as well as mounting brackets. There may be differences in the flow directions as well as core thickness. A class 8 truck has a front mounted rad and takes avantage of the air rush into the rad. Please keep us posted.
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Old 07-23-2020, 06:29 PM   #10
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Call RHS in Oregon. They will have it all. No more aluminum radiator, copper brass the way to go.
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Old 07-23-2020, 06:48 PM   #11
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Instead of immediately starting with a radiator/CAC swap I'd confirm that the fan speed control is working properly. If your fan is not functioning properly your cooling capability will be impacted.

If you have hydraulic motors for your fans they may be controlled by a thermovalve which controls the speed. If you have a manual it will explain the function.

On mine, as the temp in the engine goes up and reaches 185 F the thermovalve will cause the motor to run faster, it will ramp up until it reaches ~195 F. If your fan is not increasing in speed it may result in higher temps.

Can you confirm you have a thermovalve. Mine looks like this
Sauer Danfoss 210 Thermal Valve 553/1/09857/210**: nwrvsupply.com
it is mounted on the top of the radiator and has 2 hydraulic hoses attached to it.
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Old 07-24-2020, 12:09 PM   #12
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Class 8 Truck Vs. RV Radiator Option

Quote:
Originally Posted by moisheh View Post
I admire your tenacity and hope ypu are able to find a cheap rad. The location of the hose outlets is also important as well as mounting brackets. There may be differences in the flow directions as well as core thickness. A class 8 truck has a front mounted rad and takes avantage of the air rush into the rad. Please keep us posted.
Moisheh,
That is one thing I am very worried about. On the trucks, air is forced in, and also augmented with fans. I have found 6 core versions, and worry that the stock fans will not pull hard enough, to take advantage of the extra cores, or worse, not allow proper cooling.
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Old 07-24-2020, 12:25 PM   #13
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MHS Radiator Part Numbers for 97 Monaco Dynasty

Quote:
Originally Posted by 10Boomer View Post
Call RHS in Oregon. They will have it all. No more aluminum radiator, copper brass the way to go.
10Boomer,
That was my first phone call, based on all the posts about them. They have what I need, but unfortunately do not have a listing specific to the 97 Dynasty. Same answer as every one else I have contacted, pull the parts, and get the part number and/or take pictures and measure. Then they can provide me with the part number and drawing.

I spoke with Linda at CGJ yesterday, and she was very helpful. But same story, lots of Monaco Radiators and CACs, but no way of determining which one is for the 97 Dynasty.

Found this yesterday on EBay, and wondering if it would cool the older mechanical Cummins engine. It could be a nightmare and cost more to make compatible for my application, but price is only $999.99 for both!!!! It is for a 2008 Monaco
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Old 07-24-2020, 12:43 PM   #14
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97 Monaco CAC

Quote:
Originally Posted by jacwjames View Post
Instead of immediately starting with a radiator/CAC swap I'd confirm that the fan speed control is working properly. If your fan is not functioning properly your cooling capability will be impacted.

If you have hydraulic motors for your fans they may be controlled by a thermovalve which controls the speed. If you have a manual it will explain the function.

On mine, as the temp in the engine goes up and reaches 185 F the thermovalve will cause the motor to run faster, it will ramp up until it reaches ~195 F. If your fan is not increasing in speed it may result in higher temps.

Can you confirm you have a thermovalve. Mine looks like this
Sauer Danfoss 210 Thermal Valve 553/1/09857/210**: nwrvsupply.com
it is mounted on the top of the radiator and has 2 hydraulic hoses attached to it.
Jim,
Cummins did test the CAC during the engine swap, and stated it would only hold 5 lbs, so I know I need to either rebuild or replace. I was able to get 15-20 lbs. boost, with the leaking CAC. Cummins swore this would not have caused overheating. On other websites, many have stated it could/will cause overheating...so agian I am confused.

I do not have a laser RPM gauge, so I do not know fan speed. I plan on doing the Wax Thermal Valve bypass trick stated on the other forums, to see if it makes the fans spin faster. If this works, I will leave like that, and not spend the money on replacement, until winter.

Please, if anyone else can find part numbers or drawings for the 97....HELP!

This is on EBay today...Modine 3E12336 Diesel Turbo Charger Intercooler Monaco Coach OEM for only $499!!!!!!!!!!!!!

So there are cheaper ways to do this, once I have the right specs.
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