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Old 06-04-2021, 09:14 PM   #15
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Those temps are nothing to worry about, besides dash gauges are just one notch above idiot lights, most of them are not even accurate i look at what the engine ecu is telling me on monaco the dash gauges are separate from the engine sensors.
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Originally Posted by pflightnut View Post
Okay, I was climbing a long grade for about 10 minutes today, doing about 50mph, and the longer it got the steeper. Coolant temp climbed to 208, tranny temp to 195 in my Cummins 360 ISL/Allison 3000. I was in 4th gear at about 2000rpm. Boost was about 35psi.

I slowed to about 45mph, and that seemed to help a couple of degrees. The grade came to an end before I had to make further changes.

What should I have done? 3rd gear? Slower speed? Same speed @ higher rpms?

Still learning and much appreciate any helpful advice!

Thanks,
Steve

2008 Monaco Knight 40DFT
2014 CR-V toad
Demco tow bar
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Old 06-04-2021, 10:28 PM   #16
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6 or 2

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Originally Posted by pflightnut View Post
... RV Trip Wizard doesn't show anything over 2%...
Which is it? 6% or 2%? Pretty big difference.

Can you verify again that the RV Trip Wizard showed only 2% grades? If so, it doesn't say much for their accuracy.

Thanks
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Old 06-05-2021, 05:24 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by avfordguy View Post
Those temps are nothing to worry about, besides dash gauges are just one notch above idiot lights, most of them are not even accurate i look at what the engine ecu is telling me on monaco the dash gauges are separate from the engine sensors.
The temps were on the Aladdin ECU monitoring system (sorry, didnt mention) so I agree that'd be more accurate than the gauges.

Still wondering how best to adjust speed and gear selection to lower the temps.
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Old 06-05-2021, 05:32 AM   #18
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Which is it? 6% or 2%? Pretty big difference.



Can you verify again that the RV Trip Wizard showed only 2% grades? If so, it doesn't say much for their accuracy.



Thanks

-Doug
There were no road signs to provide a clue to the % grade. Heavy trucks were laboring much slower than me. RVW doesn't show any grades on the route greater than 2%, but we already know the tool has limitations. It thinks some portion of I-81 is gravel/dirt road. Uh, yeh, right!
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Old 06-05-2021, 07:52 AM   #19
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Check your manual on the cooling system and see what it says for temp range and how the cooling fan is suppose to function.
In my case I have a thermovalve that controls the speed of the cooling fan. The fan should be a low speed at startup and as temps climb it will ramp up the speed of the fan. In my case the fan speed will start to increase at 185 F and keep increasing unitl temp is 199F at which point the fan will be running wide open.

Yours may be different but seems like your temps got pretty high. Best way to get temps down is to downshift and increase RPMs.



I just drove parts of I77 in WV to I81 to I40. My temps never went above 188F on my Silverleaf.
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Old 06-20-2021, 08:17 PM   #20
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I drove back from VA to GA today on I-81 and I-26. I had no issues downhill, although if the grade had been steeper than 7%, it would have been hard work to stay under 55mph. I was using the engine brake and trying to shift manually, but the Allison display and the Aladdin were sort of of auto-shifting to 2 / 4L. The speed would creep above 55 on a long grade downhill, and had to be brought under control by a quick stab of the brakes. Any thoughts about this?

One of the uphill grades south of Flat Pond to Sams Gap had me worried. At the start of the grade, I downshifted to 4th gear, and used almost full throttle. I was running at 2200rpm and was barely able to maintain 40 mph. Is that normal?
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Old 06-20-2021, 09:36 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pflightnut View Post

One of the uphill grades south of Flat Pond to Sams Gap had me worried. At the start of the grade, I downshifted to 4th gear, and used almost full throttle. I was running at 2200rpm and was barely able to maintain 40 mph. Is that normal?


I have a Cummins 450 and on the 7% uphill grade leading up to the Johnson tunnel on I70 in the Rocky Mountains I could barely maintain 30mph in 3rd gear at 2000 rpm ! But all the other trucks were doing the same or slower speed.

Itís also over 11,000 ft altitude so even with the turbo, I was only getting 29psi max boost instead of my usual 34 psi at sea level.
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Old 06-21-2021, 10:45 AM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pflightnut View Post
Okay, I was climbing a long grade for about 10 minutes today, doing about 50mph, and the longer it got the steeper. Coolant temp climbed to 208, tranny temp to 195 in my Cummins 360 ISL/Allison 3000. I was in 4th gear at about 2000rpm. Boost was about 35psi.

I slowed to about 45mph, and that seemed to help a couple of degrees. The grade came to an end before I had to make further changes.

What should I have done? 3rd gear? Slower speed? Same speed @ higher rpms?

Still learning and much appreciate any helpful advice!

Thanks,
Steve

2008 Monaco Knight 40DFT
2014 CR-V toad
Demco tow bar
Brake Buddy
Sounds to me like you've got a handle on it.
Something I didn't see posted earlier is the transition from climbing to descending. Try and be going your downhill speed before start back downhill.
In a car I crest the top of a hill and then think about my downhill speed when it starts to becomes excessive. In the rig I need to think about the downhill speed BEFORE I start accelerating down the grade. The exhaust brake is much more effective in lower gears, so if you unload the transmission and start down the hill, the speed may continue to increase, then the trans will upshift, which makes the exhaust brake even less effective and you'll need to get deep into the brakes to control speed.
Cheers,
Walter
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Old 06-21-2021, 01:49 PM   #23
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Your concern over mountain driving is normal, at least for normal people.

Bear in mind you are trying to control a lot of weight, start down slow,
you can always speed up. I have known of people pulling over at the
crest gather themselves by shifting into a low gear, turning on the
exhaust or engine brake, then proceeding.

Experience will let you become more comfortable.

Temp of 208 is not a trip killer, but is a little high.
Your Knight has a rear radiator, one fault of a rear rad is that every
thing is blown from the engine compartment through the rad. That air
tends to be sticky ( oily ) so dust etc collects on the fan side of the rad
gradually ​choking the airflow.

​ It's not real easy to get those radiators clean. People have come up
​ with different ways, most include a pump up yard sprayer and Simple
​Green sprayed from the fan side, then flushed from the outside.
Repeat until you can see light through the radiator even the outer areas.
​Your radiator is most likely aluminum and Simple G can literally dissolve
​ aluminum, so be super careful. Better yet get Simple G made for planes.

Ray
03 Windsor
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Old 06-21-2021, 01:57 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pflightnut View Post
I drove back from VA to GA today on I-81 and I-26. I had no issues downhill, although if the grade had been steeper than 7%, it would have been hard work to stay under 55mph. I was using the engine brake and trying to shift manually, but the Allison display and the Aladdin were sort of of auto-shifting to 2 / 4L. The speed would creep above 55 on a long grade downhill, and had to be brought under control by a quick stab of the brakes. Any thoughts about this?

One of the uphill grades south of Flat Pond to Sams Gap had me worried. At the start of the grade, I downshifted to 4th gear, and used almost full throttle. I was running at 2200rpm and was barely able to maintain 40 mph. Is that normal?

55 is WAY too fast on a 7% down grade. Said another way if your speed is "creeping up" you are in the wrong/too high a gear.


Your goal on descent is to find a gear/engine RPM/use of engine brake such that your speed is in EQUILIBRIUM-- you are neither speeding up nor slowing down WITHOUT USING THE SERVICE BRAKE/BRAKE PEDAL. If you find your speed increasing, use the service brakes firmly and long enough to drop to a lower gear.


As far as expectations when climbing a grade, this document by Caterpillar Corp should help you set reasonable expectations. I know you don't have a Caterpillar engine but the physics is exactly the same. Page 6 shows HP demand at the rear wheels on a 6% grade for coaches of various gross combined weights.


https://www.prevostcommunity.com/PDF...%20economy.pdf
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Old 06-21-2021, 03:36 PM   #25
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Wow my coach around 34k ,a tad over 400 hp to do 55 on 6% grade .At 55k 587hp wooh!



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55 is WAY too fast on a 7% down grade. Said another way if your speed is "creeping up" you are in the wrong/too high a gear.


Your goal on descent is to find a gear/engine RPM/use of engine brake such that your speed is in EQUILIBRIUM-- you are neither speeding up nor slowing down WITHOUT USING THE SERVICE BRAKE/BRAKE PEDAL. If you find your speed increasing, use the service brakes firmly and long enough to drop to a lower gear.


As far as expectations when climbing a grade, this document by Caterpillar Corp should help you set reasonable expectations. I know you don't have a Caterpillar engine but the physics is exactly the same. Page 6 shows HP demand at the rear wheels on a 6% grade for coaches of various gross combined weights.


https://www.prevostcommunity.com/PDF...%20economy.pdf
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Old 06-21-2021, 03:42 PM   #26
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Remember, the charts are NOT for going in at 70 MPH and "what speed do you come out at the top".


They are for a SUSTAINED grade.


Like many, I accelerate going down a grade and "trade" that for elevation on the other side. A very different equation.
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Old 06-21-2021, 03:43 PM   #27
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Like many, I accelerate going down a grade and "trade" that for
elevation on the other side. A very different equation.

I do that often when a steep grade is ahead. Get up some speed !!!
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Old 06-21-2021, 07:57 PM   #28
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It's been a year and 9 states for me now, and I'm driving a loaded 37 foot rig, with a 600lb motorcycle hanging off the back, a Honda CRV carrying two electric bikes behind that, and there's two rules of thumb I use that's made driving Mt Passes much less stressful.

#1

I use the: Don't go down any faster than you went up rule. I have 300hp Cat with a Pac brake and have never felt like Mt Passes have been a problem but that's because of Rule of thumb #2

#2 is THE most important.

Make peace with the limits of your machine, what ever those limits are. I know it kinda sounds Zen-like, but it works. Let your rig tell YOU how fast to go up, and how fast to come down - to heck with everyone else. So far, even with my heavy "Gypsy Caravan" 40-45mph is a pretty good average speed both up and down just about any pass I've been on. I don't care how fast anyone else is going up or down, or wants to go, I go at a speed that isn't pushing my rig. I've found going down using my Pac brake, that being in a lower gear works great for really reducing my need to push the brake pedal. A lot of the time if I've picked the right speed I don't even touch the service brakes. Going up, there are times I'll manually downshift to get the best RPM for the climb without pushing the engine too hard. This helps keep temps in check. By watching the gauges, listening to my engine, transmission, and pac brake, Mt fear of mountain passes is gone. I've even been over some of the ones people say are hairy, and it went well.

I've been passed many times, and I've passed others many times, but I learned what works for my rig and that's all I care about. If you find yourself going 20, relax, accept it, and enjoy the scenery. Before you know it, the pass will be behind you.
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