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Old 02-22-2013, 10:02 PM   #15
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An observation regarding the fresh air door. On my rig, the fresh air door is spring loaded to the open position, requiring vacuum to pull it closed.

So if I try the method of switching to Max AC, then removing the vacuum line, it instantly returns to the open position, before you can say, "what the ...."

Are you folks sure that you are not needing to tie the door closed with wire or something?
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Old 02-23-2013, 06:43 AM   #16
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Mine's a 97, pretty sure I just pulled the line, but if it needs a piece of wire or a tie wrap to hold it the way you want it I wouldn't hesitate?
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Old 02-23-2013, 06:57 AM   #17
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I have the same issue with my new to me 2000 Georgie Boy with a 454. Driving back from Florida, we found ourselves needing heat rather quickly as we entered Georgia. We used the coach furnace, as all we were getting from the dash was cold air. I did notice that the temp gauge for the engine was around the 150 degree range, so I chalked it up to a stuck open Thermostat on the engine. I changed the stat to a 180 degree stat once home but that made the dash gauge read lower (so the gauge works, just reads low). I checked the lines going to and from the heater, they were both hot, Heat valve worked just not pushing hot air out the vents till I turned it to Max Air, which shut the fan housing door from outside air to inside air, then the temp started going up. So I will run it in Max Air mode when the need for heat arises, and run the house furnace.
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Old 02-23-2013, 07:30 AM   #18
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Consider that when your heater is placed on Max Air there's a good chance your A/C compressor is running (acting as a dehumidifier)? If so, that's costing you mileage, and you're warming air up that the A/C has cooled off? Still better than pulling outside air, but not as efficient as it can be...
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