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Timaz · 08-01-2021, 02:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by barmcd

Well, it looks like the equalizing tank is in the space with the fuel tank. I traced both the front and rear hoses into that space. I can’t see very far into the space through the fuel cap door because the frame rail gets in the way. I can get access by drilling out these two rivets right?

Dennis look under that panel on the frame and you will see self tapping screws for a front and back strap where the rivets are. Take those out and pull the straps down a little and you can open the panel.

Tim

barmcd · 08-01-2021, 03:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Timaz

Dennis look under that panel on the frame and you will see self tapping screws for a front and back strap where the rivets are. Take those out and pull the straps down a little and you can open the panel.

Tim

Thanks Tim! After crawling in, out and under the coach for an hour, I finally found the synchronizing cylinder. It’s on the ceiling of the basement, half in the bay with the propane tank and half in the fuel tank space. You can see about a foot of it in the propane tank bay. It looks like it’s leaking too, I need to get behind that panel.

tmandoug1 · 08-01-2021, 03:27 PM

We had an issue with a slide one time....I just happened to be outside stowing gear and stopped DW just in time. I now watch the full wall and kitchen slide every time we come in or out. It is now routine. Almost tore off the full wall facia at the front. Hope all works out well.

barmcd · 08-01-2021, 04:27 PM

I’m thinking I should remove and rebuild the synchronizer cylinder, then the other cylinders, one at a time. That will allow me to replace hoses if I find one leaking. So far, none are even slightly wet.

jacwjames · 08-01-2021, 05:50 PM

The panel should tilt up like the other doors, there are probably a couple of straps fastened underneath the hold it shut.

barmcd · 08-01-2021, 06:35 PM

I got it open, thanks Jim.

I’ve looked at this up close and none of the hoses appear to be leaking. The sync cylinder is definitely leaking out of the ram end onto the propane tank. Even though they aren’t leaking leaving 21 year old hoses in there doesn’t seem smart. Here’s some pictures.

Timaz · 08-02-2021, 09:54 AM

Your post made me go out and look at mine. So far so good and dry.

Tim

vito.a · 08-02-2021, 03:29 PM

Good thread.
Is the synchronizing cylinder held up with zip ties?

barmcd · 08-02-2021, 06:20 PM

I took the synchronizing cylinder out this afternoon. It took about an hour start to finish. It's got zip ties on it, but I think they just zip tied it to the ceiling of the compartment to make it easier to install the u-bolts that hold it up. Without them, you'd have to hold the cylinder up by one end while trying to install the u-bolt. You'd need 4 hands and space is tight up there.

Those u-bolts are a pain to get off. The nuts are those nylon insert lock nuts that you can't turn by hand, not that you can get your hand in there anyway. There's maybe 2" above the plate the cylinder is mounted to. I used a gear-wrench, but you can only crank it about an inch and a half each time and the u-bolts have about 1 1/2" of thread above the nut. I think its going to be fiddly to put them back in. I came up with the idea of just loosening them almost all the way, then sliding the cylinder out one end, then the other. Nope, the u-bolts are smaller than the diameter of the cylinder and the cylinder has a groove around each end that it fits into. You have to take them all the way out.

The kicker is you're doing all this squatting down under the bay doors reaching up inside the compartment because the slide has to be out to replace the other cylinders.

barmcd · 08-02-2021, 06:30 PM

The synchronizing cylinder part number AP14587 is replaced by RAP90463. I’m going to see about rebuilding it.

jacwjames · 08-02-2021, 07:08 PM

I would take the cylinder apart and take the seals to a good hydraulic shop, they should be able to match for a fraction of the cost. If you can take the end gland (the part the rod slides through) and the piston it would help. Also get the dimensions of the rod and inside diameter of the barrel, this will help them match the packing.

My guess ~$40 for the parts, maybe less if they feel pity on you.

barmcd · 08-03-2021, 11:33 AM

I dropped the cylinder off to get rebuilt this morning. I took it to a different place than I did last time since they needed 3 tries to get my generator slide cylinder to not leak. This one is also a machine shop and hydraulic repair shop.

I’m thinking of putting this synchronizing cylinder in the curb side center bay instead of back where it was. There’s plenty of room in the ceiling if I can find something to mount a bracket to. Anyone see an issue with that?

96 Wideglide · 08-03-2021, 11:58 AM

I would think as long as the hoses are the same length as original, shouldn't be an issue.

barmcd · 08-03-2021, 12:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 96 Wideglide

I would think as long as the hoses are the same length as original, shouldn't be an issue.

That’s what I’m thinking. The cylinder doesn’t know where it’s at. The only downside is if it leaks in the future, it’ll leak on top of what ever is in the compartment. I might be able to rig up a shield using a lid to a plastic tub or something. It shouldn’t leak for a long time anyway.

I looked in the ceiling and found these two cross members. I think I can just use a self-taping screw and screw a couple pieces of this aluminum angle stock to the ceiling, then drill the holes for the u-bolts that hold the cylinder up. I hope the hoses are no tie wrapped on the way to its current location.