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Old 08-03-2021, 01:24 PM   #29
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I found actual instructions for replacing the HWH synchronizing cylinder.

https://www.hwhcorp.com/ml39247.pdf
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Old 08-03-2021, 01:41 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by barmcd View Post
The synchronizing cylinder part number AP14587 is replaced by RAP90463. Iím going to see about rebuilding it.
Apparently its changed again to RAP14587.
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Old 08-04-2021, 10:50 AM   #31
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Sync Cylinder wonít be done until next week. I spent the morning cleaning the tranny fluid off of the propane tank. I have been able to clean about 2/3rd of the way around it and hope to finish it after it dries and can get under it without water dripping on me.

It was wet on the right side, under the end of the sync cylinder. It was not as noticeable on the left end under the end of the Ram. Thatís still leaking onto the basement door when itís open. You can see it in one of the pics.
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Old 08-05-2021, 12:43 PM   #32
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You appear to have a fairly small propane tank.

Did your coach come with AH, electric cooktop?

I have AH, but my tank still appears longer than that.
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Old 08-05-2021, 01:07 PM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 96 Wideglide View Post
You appear to have a fairly small propane tank.

Did your coach come with AH, electric cooktop?

I have AH, but my tank still appears longer than that.
No Aquahot or electric cooktop. I think it holds a little over 20 gallons.
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Old 08-05-2021, 02:52 PM   #34
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I bought a 4" X 56" X 3/16" piece of bar stock to make a bracket that I can attach to the ceiling to mount the sync cylinder. While I was measuring to drill holes for the screws, I noticed a problem I'm going to have to deal with. Every other cross member that holds up the ceiling of the basement and supports the floor of the living area, lines up with the compartment dividers. There's no room to get a drill in there to make a pilot hole for the self tapping screws. There's only one cross member in between so I can't support the bracket at both ends.

Since I can get to the side of the cross member, I'm thinking of welding a 1" piece of steel across the end of the bar stock to to make it an "L" shape. Then I can put screws in from the side. Anyone have a better idea?
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Old 08-08-2021, 11:34 AM   #35
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I know this is late, but what about using an angle drill.

Tim
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Old 08-08-2021, 04:38 PM   #36
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We just went through this with our Ď99 Windsor. The hydraulic cylinders had blown their seals. RV Service removed them, a rebuilder in Gun Barrel City, TX, within 20 miles of me!! did the rebuild. Service replaced, refilled fluid. The cover at the fuel tank was removed & the water heater was in the way. Not an easy fix. But it took 20 years to wear the seals. Good luck!!
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Old 08-10-2021, 08:42 PM   #37
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Quote:
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Well, it looks like the equalizing tank is in the space with the fuel tank. I traced both the front and rear hoses into that space. I canít see very far into the space through the fuel cap door because the frame rail gets in the way. I can get access by drilling out these two rivets right?
STOP! Do not drill out the rivets at the top.
Below the panel you should see two tabs with screws into the bottom body frame.
Remove those and the panel will swing up to grant access to the space above the fuel tank. Good luck!
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Old 08-10-2021, 09:39 PM   #38
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Quote:
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I know this is late, but what about using an angle drill.

Tim
There's only an inch or two of room up there Tim. I don't have room for the angle drill without a bit in it!
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Old 08-10-2021, 09:39 PM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Elevensdad View Post
STOP! Do not drill out the rivets at the top.
Below the panel you should see two tabs with screws into the bottom body frame.
Remove those and the panel will swing up to grant access to the space above the fuel tank. Good luck!
Got it figured out, thanks.
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Old 08-10-2021, 09:47 PM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sheriff54 View Post
We just went through this with our Ď99 Windsor. The hydraulic cylinders had blown their seals. RV Service removed them, a rebuilder in Gun Barrel City, TX, within 20 miles of me!! did the rebuild. Service replaced, refilled fluid. The cover at the fuel tank was removed & the water heater was in the way. Not an easy fix. But it took 20 years to wear the seals. Good luck!!
That sounds promising.
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Old 08-13-2021, 12:21 PM   #41
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While waiting for the sync cylinder to be rebuilt I decided to address the damage I inflicted on the slide facia in order to retract the slide.

This fabric trim piece got caught between the slide and the inside of the coach. It was held on by Velcro and just pulled loose and got sucked into the narrow space between the slide and cabinet inside the coach. I had to actually pry the 1/4Ē plywood backing it was attached to loose. Then I had to pull the aluminum angle loose too. Both were riveted on.
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Old 08-13-2021, 12:36 PM   #42
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I riveted the aluminum angle back on the inside of the slide. I will replace the 1/4Ē strip of plywood and staple the salvaged Velcro strip and wooden trim to it. I bought these wide head rivets for that task. I figure to use the old holes in the angle iron and donít think I can match up the holes in the plywood exactly. These will give me a little fudge factor.

One of the mirrors broke so I removed both and refinished the side of the cabinet. A couple slivers of wood lifted off with the mirrors, so I repaired the holes after removing all the adhesive left behind. The side of the cabinet is cheery veneer plywood. The Goof Off took the lacquer finish off so Iíll put another top coat on as soon as it dries.
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