2000 Monaco Dynasty Slide-Room Cylinder Rebuild and Hose Replacement

[barmcd]

I have to replace the plywood backing to which the upholstered facia strip was attached. It had velcro glued to it. What kind of glue do you think they used? I’m considering 3M 77 contact adhesive. I’ve used it on headliner so I know it’s heat and cold safe. Any other ideas?

[barmcd]

The cylinder was finished Friday so I'm ready to move forward with my project. They charged $236 to repair and test the synchronization cylinder. HWH wants about half the cost of a new cylinder to rebuild one so the price doesn't seem out of line. I used colored tie wraps to mark the connections



I hoped the hose removal process would be painless, but the way Monaco installed the hoses in my coach precluded that. Here's a schematic diagram of the hydraulic slide-out system.



That tee circled in red caused me no end of grief and made a short job long.

All the hoses run through a bulkhead separating the inside of the fuel tank compartment from the outside of the fuel tank compartment. Pulling hose 1 and 2 was pretty easy as they are smaller diameter than the rest of the hoses. Next I tried to pull hose A, but it wouldn't move more than a foot or so before it got hung up. The space that hoses resides in is about 3"high over the left side of the fuel tank. Worse, the bottom of the opening is above the bottom edge of the side of the motor home, meaning you can reach into it, but you can't actually see into it. I took a few pictures to see if I could see the hang up.


This tee you can see here turned out to be really important!


That hose with the red tie wrap is the end of hose A.

I got a good view of the near end of the space, but couldn't actually see what might be holding things up. I switched tactics and decided to try and remove the cap end hoses first, they were really long and looped up above the wires in the ceiling of the fuel tank bay. After an hour of fiddling around I was able to get them separated and all three actually went into the part of the fuel tank bay where hose A was.


You can see them here.

I pushed and pulled on those three hoses until I was finally able to push them farther into the space with hose A. I walked around the coach and this is what I found.


Yeah, its that tee I saw in the pics of the space above the fuel tank. I didn't know it was the tee connected to the hoses that should have been entirely in the basement.

After looking the schematic I can see no reason for that tee to reside outside the bulkhead that separates the inside area from the outside area of the fuel tank bay. I also wished I'd realized what it was when I saw it on the picture I took of the space above the fuel tank. The single hose comes into the basement from the front of the coach where the hydraulic pump is mounted, and connects to the two cap end hoses with that tee. They are also in the basement. All it did was make it really difficult to remove those three hoses.

Once those three hoses were removed, Hose A pulled right out. I had to disconnect the single hose from the tee, pull it back into the basement and reconnect the tee on the other side of the coach. I'm done and will start working on the bracket to mount the synchronization cylinder to the roof of the basement tomorrow. I only get about 3 hours of work before it gets to hot to be outside so this may take some time.



Once

[Timaz]

Thanks for the posts Dennis. I hope I never have to do this job on mine. Where was your coach made?

Tim

[barmcd]

Originally Posted by Timaz

Thanks for the posts Dennis. I hope I never have to do this job on mine. Where was your coach made?

Tim

YW Tim. It’s an Oregon coach.

[barmcd]

Originally Posted by barmcd

YW Tim. It’s an Oregon coach.

I wish I wasn't doing this too!

[Timaz]

As these coaches are all snow flakes who knows how mine if routed. Mine was made in the same place so mostly the same as yours. Good Luck.

Tim

[barmcd]

I was short of time this morning because of other errands so I didn't get far.

I welded this tab on to the bracket - it'll allow me to screw the bracket into the square tube from the side at the spot where I can't drill into bottom of the tube. I put a bead on both sides, but the inside angle was a bad fit with the bead so I ground it off.





It'll be a good fit now.



Tomorrow, I'll decide where the cylinder needs to go so the ram can extend without hitting anything in the ceiling. Then, I'll drill the holes for the mounting screws and U-bolts before priming and painting it.

Once I have the synchronizer cylinder mounted, I can connect the hoses and purge the system of air to make sure the synchronizing cylinder works as its supposed to. Then, I'll measure the hoses to see what length I need and drain the system so I can remove the room rams and have them rebuilt.

I'm thinking of ordering the hoses from HWH even though I think I could source them locally. The instructions only say the hoses between the cap end of the room cylinders and the tee must be the same length of 1/8" high pressure hose. The same for the hoses between the rod end of the cylinder and synchronizing hose. They must the the same length of 1/8" high pressure hose. There are no specifications in the instructions for Hose A nor the hose from the tee to the hydraulic pump. They have the same part number on the hose though.

Each hose I removed has a HWH part number embossed on the hose itself as well as a white tag with another HWH part number. I believe that is the HWH part number for that specific length hose. I can't read all of them because Monaco apparently went crazy with black spray paint after the slide out plumbing was installed on the chassis. I've been able to scrape some paint off and hope to have a full list of numbers for my 2000 Dynasty. I'm hoping those numbers verify the size of the hoses if I decide to order locally.

[barmcd]

Here's the list of hoses, length and part numbers for my Dynasty. Initially, I was thinking I could shorten the hoses considerably, but after looking, I think I could only knock 2-3' off the length. I'll probably just order original replacements from HWH.

Hose A, 228", 1/4", RAP5924, 1 ea.
Supply Hose, 240", 1/4", RAP6016, 1 ea.
Cap End Hose, 132", 1/4", RAP4062, 2 ea.
Hose 1 & 2, 144", 3/16", RAP50779, 2 ea.

Here's the finished bracket, its upside down here, but I test fit it that way because it would lay flat on the bench. The flat bar will be reversed when its installed.


I had to shorten the u-bolts because they were too long and hit the ceiling. I'd bought this little gadget a few years ago and this is the first time I've used it. I slipped a nut on the u-bolt, cut the end of the bolt off, then used the tool to taper the end of the bolt. Once that was done, I screwed the nut off and back on. It worked great.



Here's the sync cylinder mounted in the ceiling of the second bay, between the frame rails. I used four self-tapping screws, two side ways and two from the bottom. I'm thinking of fabricating two retaining clips to give it a little more strength. They'd just be two short pieces of 3/16 flat bar welded together, but offset so they could be screwed to the bottom of the transverse ceiling support tubes and overlap the bracket. You can see the white HWH tags where I scraped the paint off the hoses.


Here's a good idea of how much longer the hoses are than they need to be now. I can roll up the extra in the first, second and third bay. I really thought about ordering shorter hoses, but after speaking to HWH, the hose isn't really expensive, the fittings are. Hose 1 and 2, are 132" long and cost about $48 each. Shortening 2-3 feet will save about $4 a hose.


I've disconnect the slide room from the rail and the rail from the coach so the slide cylinder is free to extend and retract with very little pressure. I'm going to purge the system and make sure the rebuilt sync cylinder works, then take the room cylinders in for a rebuild. I hope to finish that tomorrow.

Here's the outboard connection, that round hole is not big enough to remove the 15/16" nut easily. The wrench barely fits in there and doesn't turn much. I didn't move the knurled nut because it sets the limit of the extend travel.



The inboard side, the two 3/4" nuts are all you need to remove to pull the room cylinder out of the square tubing.


Here's the rod end of the room cylinder, you can see the wiper is dried out and cracked.


Here's the rebuild instructions for the room cylinder.


The link to hoses at HWH.
Hoses – HWH® Corporation

[jacwjames]

Dennis,
I assume you have all the hoses out.

Why not just take them to a local shop and have them made. I'd bet you could save $$$$.


If you have plenty of clearance and nor space issues you could actually get a better quality higher pressure hose.

[barmcd]

Originally Posted by jacwjames

Dennis,
I assume you have all the hoses out.

Why not just take them to a local shop and have them made. I'd bet you could save $$$$.


If you have plenty of clearance and nor space issues you could actually get a better quality higher pressure hose.

I'm still going back and forth on that. HWH's hoses lasted 21 years and their prices actually seem a little cheaper than I can get locally.

[jacwjames]

Well that's surprising, if so go the OEM route if you can wait.



Good Luck

[barmcd]

The synchronization cylinder works! The rod is extended when the slide is retracted. Kinda odd.


The slide room cylinders wouldn't syc within specs -- one was about two inches in front of the other on extension. The one that was lagging was the one that I had problems with and caused the room to get cockeyed and stuck. I think the leak is just too bad for it to work right. Fluid leaking inside the square tube.


You can see fluid dripping off the bottom of the square tube as I pulled the room cylinder out.


Lots of hydraulic fluid inside the square tube. It was really leaking badly.


The extension rod is very long, about 2/3 the length of the cylinder


I'll take the cylinder to get rebuilt and see about the hoses. NAPA doesn't have the 3/16 size so they are out. I'll try the hydraulic shop on Monday.

[barmcd]

I dropped the cylinders off at the Hydraulic Shop today. Should have them back in 2 weeks. I decided to order the two sets of hoses from HWH and have the single hoses made locally. I called HWH and they are operating on a “call back” basis and are 2 weeks behind on call backs.

[barmcd]

I think these hydraulic issues are what caused this slide out alignment problem. After the hydraulic system is working correctly, I’ll carefully adjust the alignment.

https://www.irv2.com/forums/f115/sli...nt-539217.html