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Old 03-10-2015, 10:04 AM   #1
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2001 Endeavor radiator removal

> Hello to all... I am helping a friend remove the radiator from his 2001 HR Endeavor and wondered if anyone has a coach of this model that has attempted this project ....according to Monaco the coach must be raised and a fork lift used to lower the radiator between the back cap and rear of the engine. We were hopeful that this could be accomplished in a little less labor and equipment usage manner. There is very little info on this subject as this configuration was only used by Monaco/HR for the year 2001...I have read about one person that was able to remove the radiator through the back engine opening but limited info.

> He is becoming frustrated and thinks he may have "bitten off " more than he can chew....any info anyone can provide would be most appreciated

Thanks Mark
>
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Old 03-10-2015, 11:01 AM   #2
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Monaco Owners Club
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If it is a diesel Freightliner you might gain info from www.accessfreightliner.com


After you get a PW there is a lot of maintenance info on the site.
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Old 03-10-2015, 06:04 PM   #3
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Mark, I think you can pull the white panels off each side of the radiator and I believe it will come out of the back. I looked at mine and it has struts that run from the frame to the sides of the radiator. You have to take the trans cooler lines off, the radiator hoses, & the charge air cooler hoses loose. It looks hard but a lot of these things are easier than they first appear. Good luck, George 2001 Diplomat PBD
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Old 03-11-2015, 10:38 AM   #4
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I removed a radiator and cac from a 99 diplomat rear radiator setup,it's not easy but Canberra done. The worst part is mine had the surge tank on the top of the radiator ( copper radiator ) very hard to get it off first. It will come out the back without any modifications or special tools or lifts. You can email me at
avfordguy@ yahoo.com and I can help
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Old 03-12-2015, 09:54 PM   #5
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Thanks to all, I will let you all know how it goes ...my friend was unexpectedly called out of town so may be a few days before next attempt....

Mark
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Old 03-13-2015, 12:27 AM   #6
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I don't know if you have a copper or aluminum radiator and if is "stacked or samwiched for the cac" makes a big difference. My 99 diplomat had a copper radiator and it was HEAVY! The cac was in front of the radiator. Let me know been down this road a couple of times.
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Old 03-14-2015, 08:45 AM   #7
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I have 2000 diplomat and removed it by lifting the rear up with the jacks and dropping it out the bottom. I had to remove the hitch and the center section of the rear cover. I also took the doors and the white panels behind them to give me more room. I took it out and put it back with a floor jack and some 6x6 wood to block it up. It would have been nice to have help but it can be done by yourself.
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Old 04-19-2015, 03:16 PM   #8
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Hi Gary.
What problems were you having with your radiator. My 2001 330 cummins is running warm, even after cleaning the radiator. I had the fluid checked and it was ok. I'm just wondering what your problem was.
Thanks
Rick
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Old 04-19-2015, 08:16 PM   #9
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oops pushed send to quick..... as said in previous post the radiator come out through the double doors at back.... we had to remove the center section of rear cap and cut a small section out of the fiberglass inside the opening (not seen) the radiator and CAC were both bad and the support section was completely rusted away...( my friend had been up North ,extensively) the entire assembly was taken to local radiator shop in Fort Worth ...total cost with fabrication and new CAC and radiator was $2200,not near as bad as initial thought. Thanks to all for your suggestions and help.
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Old 04-19-2015, 11:12 PM   #10
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First off, how warm is warm? I would not worry if on long uphill pulls the temp goes to 215-220 as long as it goes back down. When you say it is clean ( the radiator) what looks clean may not be clean. Look from fan blade side and see if there are any wal mart bags stuck to the radiator , these rear radiator coaches pull huge amounts of air through the radiator/cac.monacodash gauges are never 100% correct always verify with a scan tool or a silver leaf.
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Old 04-20-2015, 09:53 AM   #11
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My overheating problems were solved by doing three thing. (1)Cleaned the radiator and CAC many times until I was satisfied it was clean by inspection. (2) My coolant was much higher than 50/50 so I changed coolant. (3) My thermostat was sticking. Original that I took out was a very bad design. I also re-routed my slobber tube so it would not output to the radiator. I now monitor temp values with my silverleaf.
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Old 04-20-2015, 03:42 PM   #12
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My engine is running 206 to 210 at sea level on a level road. It use to run at 180. I have a scan gauge so I'm getting the cummins temperatures. I'm heading out to the Rockies this summer and I can't imagine what time temps will be climbing the mountains.
I'll try cleaning the radiator again. I did steam clean it with no improvement.
Thanks
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Old 04-20-2015, 04:51 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gorlininc View Post
My engine is running 206 to 210 at sea level on a level road. It use to run at 180. I have a scan gauge so I'm getting the cummins temperatures. I'm heading out to the Rockies this summer and I can't imagine what time temps will be climbing the mountains.
I'll try cleaning the radiator again. I did steam clean it with no improvement.
Thanks
Rick
Make sure you check the thermostat. According to my chart on silverleaf it opens at 182. My level temps with a 5000 lb tow vehicle is 180 to 190. My overheat light will come on at about 215 but has not come on since I replaced the thermo.

My old original cummins thermostat had a flange that matched to flange inside the engine. The two surfaces stuck or just grew together. Therefore it could not open to provide cooling. When I removed the thermo it was stuck so bad to the engine that I had to pry it loose from the engine with heavy screwdrivers. The new thermostats no longer have the flange so it opens more freely. Check the thermo before you get in the mountains and it will safe you a lot of problems. Cost for a new one is minimal.
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Old 05-13-2015, 07:20 PM   #14
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Unhappy

I have personal experience with removing and replacing the radiator on a 2001 Holiday Rambler Endeavor diesel, and it didn't require raising the coach, or the use a fork lift - which would have been difficult, since we were 250 miles north of Whitehorse, in a primitive campground (Moose Creek) on the Klondike Highway, after traveling the Top of the World Highway. It was a very bad place to put a stone through the engine fan into the radiator.

Not liking the idea of a 500 mile round trip tow bill, or of turning the Endeavor into a cabin in the woods, I decided to try to fix it.

All I had available were the tools I carried, three other people to help, and a pile of leftover firewood! I was able to remove the radiator through the double rear doors, by removing the bolt-in section of fiberglass body underneath the doors. After draining the remaining coolant, removing front and rear shrouding, CAC turbo hoses, transmission fluid lines, and coolant hoses, we were able to lift the radiator out, and put it in the Jeep toad to take to Whitehorse to get the stone damage repaired and buy the supplies we would need.

To re-install the radiator, we picked up some 2x4s and nails to build a simple leverage lift mechanism, which allowed us to lift and maneuver the radiator back into place. The radiator is pretty heavy, and it would have been difficult even for the four of us to position it in place without the lever system.

We were very fortunate - the damage occurred at noon on Friday; Saturday morning we left for Whitehorse with the radiator, and were lucky enough to locate a radiator shop owner to come in on Saturday to fix the leak. We gave him a nice tip!

On Sunday, after collecting supplies, we left for Moose Creek, put things back together Sunday evening and Monday morning, and were back on the road before noon on Monday. Success!

It was quite an adventure, but not one I would care to repeat!
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