Community Forums

Woodman018 · 09-04-2016, 09:12 AM

I have an issue with the ridge that sticks out about a half inch at the top of the wall. This is where the roof wraps around and meets the wall, it is about 3/4 inch high and and sticks out from the wall about 1/2 inch. Above the slide topper on my PS slide, there is a gap at the bottom of the ridge and I can see what looks like screws that have pulled out, up underneath it. I am wondering if there is a metal strip in there that the ridge part snaps over and that is what has pulled loose. I assume that when the slide comes out and the topper comes with it that it pulls on this area and over time has pulled this loose. Has anyone had to fix this on their coach? Any advice on how to deal with this would be appreciated.
Thanks,
Dave

CJScepter · 09-04-2016, 10:51 PM

I think you should take a picture showing the area, if it's the trim piece that runs along the top from front to back you need to get it water tight. But I may be wrong, a picture will help get an answer.
John G.

Woodman018 · 09-05-2016, 07:03 AM

Hopefully, here is a picture of the side of coach looking up.

rmcb · 09-05-2016, 11:33 AM

Dave,
This is a common problem with Monaco coaches. The "awning rail" is a channel that covers the roof/sidewall seam, and runs from the lower rear end cap seam all the way to the driver's window or entry door. It has a plastic molding that snaps over it. This channel is attached to the coach with #10 galvanized self drilling screws that fix the roofing material to the sidewall and screw into the framing at the top of the wall. These screws rust and break off due to differential movement at the joint and/or tension from the slideout awnings. When they do, it allows the joint to separate and provides a pathway for water to enter the coach wall.
The fix for this is to gently pry the plastic molding off and shoot new SS screws or pop rivets in between the old screws, sealing it all up as you go with a good grade of flexible sealant such as Proflex RV.
There are a number of posts on this in the IRV2 forum and I think there is a pretty good white paper available on the Yahoo Monacoers forum as well.
This is a task within the capability of a moderately handy person, but a good power screw driver/drill will be needed or a heavy duty pop rivet setting tool if you use SS pop rivets.

All the best,

Roy

Woodman018 · 09-05-2016, 01:37 PM

Roy,
Thanks for the info. The top of the channel is still tight against the roof part, so I assume I will need to cut the caulk in that area to remove it. Is that correct? The way you described it looks exactly like what has happened. The slide topper must put extra strain on the screws since that is the only place it has happened.
Again, thanks for the help,
Dave

DtBt · 09-05-2016, 06:04 PM

Roy is exactly right. One added thought is to address this problem ASAP as water in the interior of the wall is inviting delamination.

Woodman018 · 09-05-2016, 09:18 PM

Thanks for your input. The coach is inside and will stay there until it is fixed. The walls still look great and I really want them to stay that way. I just removed the protective 3M film on the front and it looks so much better now. I guess I'm not done with maint. for the year.

rmcb · 09-05-2016, 09:32 PM

Dave,
The sealant along the top is very likely silicone, which is a problematic choice. The problem is that nothing will stick to it, including new silicone. So, you need to completely remove the old sealant before trying to reseal.

I have successfully used a putty knife heated with a propane torch. It cuts through old sealant very well. On my coach, I then scraped the surface with a triangular scraper (actually a woodworking tool) to get below the old silicone. I also used utility knife blades as a scraper, and scrubbed the area down with scotchbrite pad and solvent. Acersol solvent is good but you probably have to get it at a auto paint store. I have also used brake cleaner and acetone. It really isn't all that difficult, but if you don't get the old silicone off, the new sealant may not stick very well.

For the new sealant, Proflex RV is a good choice but Sika also makes a selection of really good products. On my coach, I forced the new sealant behind the awning rail as much as possible and also over the plastic cap once it was pressed back on. I also sealed the screws when I shot them in.

For SS screws, you might check out Albany Fasteners online. They ship fast and have very good prices. They also have SS pop rivets if you want them.

Good Luck!

Roy

Woodman018 · 09-07-2016, 09:29 PM

Thanks for all of your advice Roy. I am planning on working on it this weekend. I am sure it will be lots of fun. There have been many things that I have had to address but I still love the coach. These are great machines, just need maintenance done at proper times.
Dave