Community Forums

pduggs · 01-24-2021, 01:56 PM

[QUOTE=Newseason;5608171]

Quote:

Originally Posted by pduggs

You definitely have to closely inspect slide bottoms on Dynasty’s. Also check all caulk lines on the coach, with special attention to the belt line. Roof caulk too. Check for side wall delamination. Mine has some that my inspector and I missed, but it hasn’t been a problem b

pduggs: Would you mind clarifying "belt line" issue & "sidewall delamination"?

Thanks

Sure.

Regarding delamination, as you walk along the side of the coach use your hand to press against the sidewall. If it gives in, that’s delamination. The fiberglass skin has lost it’s adhesive to the sub wall. I have an area probably 4x6 feet on the driver’s side, that has delaminated. You’ll likely find some delamination on every older coach. So, it’s often not a big deal. However, you need to make sure it isn’t caused by ongoing water intrusion getting in behind the fiberglass skin. This could rot out a coach and can be expensive to fix.

Water intrusion is what the caulking is all about preventing. The belt line is the molding you see on coaches running up the front side walls to near the roof, then all the way to the rear of the coach and down. It’s where the side wall is attached to the roof and front and rear caps. That molding needs caulk on both sides, particularly as it runs along the top near the roof. Water rolling off the roof can easily seep in along the belt line and rot the wood and screws behind the fiberglass.

You need to walk along the side of the coach, right up against the coach looking up at that molding. You’re looking for any separation, openings, etc that will indicate the caulk has failed. Do the same thing up on the roof. Looking closely at the top side of the molding. It’s an easy fix. Just add caulk, but you need to monitor it all the time.

Newseason · 01-24-2021, 02:41 PM

[QUOTE=pduggs;5608310]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Newseason

Sure.

Regarding delamination, as you walk along the side of the coach use your hand to press against the sidewall. If it gives in, that’s delamination. The fiberglass skin has lost it’s adhesive to the sub wall. I have an area probably 4x6 feet on the driver’s side, that has delaminated. You’ll likely find some delamination on every older coach. So, it’s often not a big deal. However, you need to make sure it isn’t caused by ongoing water intrusion getting in behind the fiberglass skin. This could rot out a coach and can be expensive to fix.

Water intrusion is what the caulking is all about preventing. The belt line is the molding you see on coaches running up the front side walls to near the roof, then all the way to the rear of the coach and down. It’s where the side wall is attached to the roof and front and rear caps. That molding needs caulk on both sides, particularly as it runs along the top near the roof. Water rolling off the roof can easily seep in along the belt line and rot the wood and screws behind the fiberglass.

You need to walk along the side of the coach, right up against the coach looking up at that molding. You’re looking for any separation, openings, etc that will indicate the caulk has failed. Do the same thing up on the roof. Looking closely at the top side of the molding. It’s an easy fix. Just add caulk, but you need to monitor it all the time.

Thank you pduggs!

Chargerman · 01-24-2021, 03:04 PM

If possible, I would suggest taking someone experienced in Monaco's of that vintage with you to inspect it. Someone who is well versed in them could likely be a better resourse than a certified inspector. Then if you have strong interest place a deposit contigent on the return of acceptable fluid analysis of the engine and transmission. Personally, I would not recommend that anyone own a large pusher unless they have above average mechanical skills. Certainly, without this ability cash can resolve issues but that outlay can get very costly and qualified shops that have the ability to diagnose and repair issues are few, likely very busy and certainly expensive. Where is the coach located that you are interested in? Maybe it's close enough to someone who can be an unbiased set of eyes for you.

Twomed · 01-24-2021, 03:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by l1v3fr33ord1

A question for those who have Dynasties in the 2004-7 range: Are the slides subject to the same floor rot problem as other coaches in the Monaco/HR line? Link to videos and other info on the problem are at Talin Manufacturing (link here).

Yes...on my "to do" list, not bad yet. Vi

Ivylog · 01-24-2021, 07:27 PM

Vito covered what you need to look at well. Yes the learning curve is pretty steep on any big rig, especially the newer ones and if you are not mechanical inclined. I bought a 04 Dynasty almost new as it was the only way to get 4 slides back then....moved up from a single slide 40’ Beaver. Biggest difference is how much better a tag axle coach handles. Sold the Dynasty to our son so it’s still in the family.

I spent more money in repairs on the NoCold 1200 refrigerator than everything else combined over 16 years. $1200 on a Amish cooling which helped. ARP controller, auto fire system, 2 control boards, extra fans and many hours working on it. Should have gone residential sooner... bought into boondocking and residential didn’t mix...not true.

Yes the thread on the slide toppers gives up before the fabric...$144 to re-sew.
Yes, the dark colors will likely have cosmetic checking in the paint, especially if stored outside.
Yes, a Dynasty will have the adjustable TRW steering box, no need to replace.

No you don’t need to change the engine oil every year...15K miles. Generator ever 5-600 hours.

No, the annual AquaHot tuneup is not necessary if you use the electric heat element most of the time, not the diesel boiler.

No, it doesn’t cost $6,000 to replace 8 tires on a Dynasty. Yes, you need $600 295 tires on the front axle but the same diameter 11R22.5 (6 Toyo $2200) is all you need for the rear tires...$3400 plus $200 mounting.

vito.a · 01-25-2021, 10:23 AM

Does this Dynasty have Aqua Hot? That's a diesel/electric furnace that provides both hot water and interior heat. (It will also heat the basement). It's a very expensive option, but some of us will not own a coach without it.

Also need to check the slide out locks on the drivers front slide. They are exposed to the weather when the slide is out and they need occasional cleaning/oiling. Most of the time they are neglected and they get very stiff. Just check that the lever on the bottom slides in and out freely. These locks are only on the drivers front slide.
You can see a picture of the slide out locks in post # 5.
https://www.irv2.com/forums/f115/sli...lp-416803.html

Newseason · 01-25-2021, 03:35 PM

Thanks again!

vito.a: Thanks for the detailed list - super helpful!

With the AC/Heat pumps, I'm assuming you're suggesting 15 years is a reasonable lifespan? What are the best units to put in if they need to be replaced?

Thanks again!

Biljol · 01-25-2021, 06:26 PM

My units are 20 years old and still working fine.

Ivylog · 01-25-2021, 07:43 PM

3 AC/heat pumps 16 years old and 3 more 12 years old...still original and still going strong. Did have to replace a $20 start capacitor on one unit. Had to shim the fan motor on another so fan wouldn’t drag.

Did buy a new old style spare unit 8 years ago so I’d have a direct replacement.