2006 Monaco drawer closers

[Racy2]

I have a 2006 Monaco Monarch. I have a bunch of drawer closers that need to be replaced. I have ordered from a few different places on line but they do not line up and fit in the same holes. I could make them fit but would not like to make new holes. Where can I get the ones Monaco used?

[okcnewbie]

Should find them at Veurinks rv in Michigan.

This might even be them. I've ordered hinges, etc. Not cheap to go with OEM.


https://shop.findmyrvparts.com/motor...ware-s/106.htm

[Biljol]

I assume your referring to the latches that keep them closed.

I gave up because they all break, are costly and frankly a PITA to install.

I just added hook and loop (Velcro) to the door and the frame I find it way better than the latches and hold the door just as security when traveling. Look for the super strong all plastic not the fabric type.

When not traveling we don’t engage the hook and loop so less slammed doors.

[Racy2]

Originally Posted by okcnewbie

Should find them at Veurinks rv in Michigan.

This might even be them. I've ordered hinges, etc. Not cheap to go with OEM.


https://shop.findmyrvparts.com/motor...ware-s/106.htm

Thank you for the information.

[harris155]

I went with strong double magnet latch.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt...5936/303007621

[153stars]

Are you talking Southco grabber brown short strike but old short depth . A couple years ago I looked found one place ....a couple bucks ea. shipping on 10was $12... Full new latches were way cheaper but had to drill striker and move grabber back all the way back.
WOW... I just got lucky ,I think I'll order some. Shipping only goes up like .40 adding extra sets cool seller.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/8-HOOKS-ONL...-127632-2357-0

[RobRoy]

Assuming we are on the same wave length as to what your trying to address

Follow this thread

https://www.irv2.com/forums/f115/bro...ch-514649.html

to post #12 of mine

These have Adjustable detents.

6 years now and have never looked back.

Happy Trails

ps: Should you decide to go this route latch what " I " do is set the detent on the latch pretty dern tight. ( I hate chasing knives /Forks and broken glass)

Then when I get to my destination I open all the doors and drawers with a pretty stout tug and then don't lock them again till I'm ready to hit the road.

With the latch installed properly and with the drawer / Door pushed closed but not latched, you will not notice the very small gap and your wife will love it's easy to use.

( the red pipe cleaner one of 6 different colors that is tied to the steering wheel is so I dont forget to latch the drawers & Doors before hitting the road )

[YC1]

RobRoy, how did you get them aligned???

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...e?ie=UTF8&th=1

If it is the hinges with the adjustment screw in the middle and the OEM's are exepensive, just two more payments and three of them are free and clear.

I took the hinges apart and removed the adjusting part, then used nuts and bolts to replace the rivets that were drilled out. These cabinet door holders work great and do not require any adjustments. I have been slowly replacing all of mine in the last four or five years.

[RobRoy]

Originally Posted by YC1

RobRoy, how did you get them aligned???

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...e?ie=UTF8&th=1

If it is the hinges with the adjustment screw in the middle and the OEM's are exepensive, just two more payments and three of them are free and clear.

I took the hinges apart and removed the adjusting part, then used nuts and bolts to replace the rivets that were drilled out. These cabinet door holders work great and do not require any adjustments. I have been slowly replacing all of mine in the last four or five years.

.

I mounted half of the latch assembly to the cabinet itself or the door with the screws, your choice either half .

Then I backed out the adjustable detent very very loose so that would barley hold the other half in place when snapped closed in place.

Then added some double sided thin tape to the back of the other half then I closed the door / drawer softly but firmly and then softly opened the drawer / door and the side with the tape would stick in place when opened then fasten it with the supplied screws and was aligned perfectly and then re-adjusted the detent pressure to my liking.

It took me longer to type this than it does to install one.

Hope this makes some sense I explain things terribly.

ps: I did drill very very small pilot holes for the screws first to avoid cracking the wood while driving in the screws.

Happy Trails

[YC1]

Great explanation: Thanks.

[veraken]

[QUOTE=YC1;6168505]RobRoy, how did you get them aligned???

Here's a video showing how to install

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_FHTZGttt8U

[1/2 canadian]

Be aware the usual Southco type latch used by Monaco comes in 2 strengths, 5lb. and 10lb. They put the 5lb. on drawers and cabinets, and the 10’s on heavier loads like the sliding wardrobe doors.

The 10 lb’s hook half has hardly noticeable thicker base plastic and won’t crack and break where it’s screws pass through like the 5 lbers. I managed to stop the breaking of the drawer and cabinet hooks by replacing them with the 10’s. Yeah, the screw holes don’t precisely line up with the originals in the wood because of the thicker plastic, but close enough to make it doable. I haven’t had to replace any for years, and I don’t recall if the screws are larger or the same. I carry spares… the hooks are the part that breaks, not the latch and as I remember it’s the same latch for both, so only spare hooks are needed. On installation remember that cranking down on the screws can be part of why the plastic breaks around them, so find the happy medium where the screw holes in the hook base are not stressed but the hook stays put on the wood.

One downside to using the heavier hooks on cabinets, and maybe drawers too, is they can be a bit harder to open. Micro-adjusting the spring latch position relative to the hook may help, but I’ve found some hook/latch combos take more muscle to open than others; a light weight spouse may complain.

The manufacturer/brand name has changed over the decades and patents expire, so model numbers have also. For multiple shopping options, the commonly seen models are C3-805 and C3-810 (5 and 10 lb) - check Amazon or Google them:

https://www.amazon.com/Grabber-OWACH...707575386&th=1

But know that cheaper off-brand versions may not be as good of a quality as others.

[153stars]

The original light weight strikes are no longer made only out there NOS. I just picked up a bunch for about $1.25 ea shipped I posted eBay link. Agree almost every broken one was overtightened with counter sink screw. It's not a huge deal to elongate holes and move grabber portion back a bit. But for a buck each I'm "grabbed" some up. New short strikes in Southco assemblies came with pan head screws instead.

Originally Posted by 1/2 canadian

Be aware the usual Southco type latch used by Monaco comes in 2 strengths, 5lb. and 10lb. They put the 5lb. on drawers and cabinets, and the 10’s on heavier loads like the sliding wardrobe doors.

The 10 lb’s hook half has hardly noticeable thicker base plastic and won’t crack and break where it’s screws pass through like the 5 lbers. I managed to stop the breaking of the drawer and cabinet hooks by replacing them with the 10’s. Yeah, the screw holes don’t precisely line up with the originals in the wood because of the thicker plastic, but close enough to make it doable. I haven’t had to replace any for years, and I don’t recall if the screws are larger or the same. I carry spares… the hooks are the part that breaks, not the latch and as I remember it’s the same latch for both, so only spare hooks are needed. On installation remember that cranking down on the screws can be part of why the plastic breaks around them, so find the happy medium where the screw holes in the hook base are not stressed but the hook stays put on the wood.

One downside to using the heavier hooks on cabinets, and maybe drawers too, is they can be a bit harder to open. Micro-adjusting the spring latch position relative to the hook may help, but I’ve found some hook/latch combos take more muscle to open than others; a light weight spouse may complain.

The manufacturer/brand name has changed over the decades and patents expire, so model numbers have also. For multiple shopping options, the commonly seen models are C3-805 and C3-810 (5 and 10 lb) - check Amazon or Google them:

https://www.amazon.com/Grabber-OWACH...707575386&th=1

But know that cheaper off-brand versions may not be as good of a quality as others.

[itdave]

Originally Posted by 1/2 canadian

Be aware the usual Southco type latch used by Monaco comes in 2 strengths, 5lb. and 10lb. They put the 5lb. on drawers and cabinets, and the 10’s on heavier loads like the sliding wardrobe doors.

The 10 lb’s hook half has hardly noticeable thicker base plastic and won’t crack and break where it’s screws pass through like the 5 lbers. I managed to stop the breaking of the drawer and cabinet hooks by replacing them with the 10’s. Yeah, the screw holes don’t precisely line up with the originals in the wood because of the thicker plastic, but close enough to make it doable. I haven’t had to replace any for years, and I don’t recall if the screws are larger or the same. I carry spares… the hooks are the part that breaks, not the latch and as I remember it’s the same latch for both, so only spare hooks are needed. On installation remember that cranking down on the screws can be part of why the plastic breaks around them, so find the happy medium where the screw holes in the hook base are not stressed but the hook stays put on the wood.

One downside to using the heavier hooks on cabinets, and maybe drawers too, is they can be a bit harder to open. Micro-adjusting the spring latch position relative to the hook may help, but I’ve found some hook/latch combos take more muscle to open than others; a light weight spouse may complain.

The manufacturer/brand name has changed over the decades and patents expire, so model numbers have also. For multiple shopping options, the commonly seen models are C3-805 and C3-810 (5 and 10 lb) - check Amazon or Google them:

https://www.amazon.com/Grabber-OWACH...707575386&th=1

But know that cheaper off-brand versions may not be as good of a quality as others.

I have found the screws Monaco used are just a bit too big for the holds in the hooks. What I do is use a knife or file to open up the holes just a bit until the screw slides in early. This seem to keep the hooks from breaking.