2006 Monaco Monarch Dash or Instrument Panel Removal - rodents

[jdpeters]

Hi All and thanks for the support from all. I've learned so much. I had a rat get in my rig - 1st time ever. Not sure how long he spent in there but no more than a week. I did find the hole he got in from, engine area, and did manage to trap and dispose of him. No sign of any more of them. I started the RV and the jacks automatically retracted and now I have no power to the Jacks Panel. There were signs of the rat being in the dash area down by the pedals. Everything else is operational. My thought is that it started going at the electrical lines looking for a water source. I can feel the wires leaving behind the Jack Panel, but they go back in further than I can reach. The bottom left of the footwell has a carpeted plywood board that all wiring goes behind. There is signs of debris that I can see behind this board but that's thru the footwell and pedals - it's tight in there.
OK, finally getting to my question. Can I safely remove the screws and pull the entire dash panel back safely to obtain additional access or is there maybe 6" of slack for everything going thru that instrument panel to allow access? Yes, I'll unhook the batteries 1st. I didn't want something to disconnect that I can't get back together.
Thank you in advance.

[l1v3fr33ord1]

jdpeters-

I had the dash out two or three times on my 2008 HR Admiral, which is the "twin" to the Monarch. Here's what I found:

1) The jack panel could be removed and replaced without taking the dash apart. There was at least a foot of slack wire behind the jack panel.

2) There is "extra wire" or slack inside the dash, in places.

3) Unhappily, due to:
a) Monaco's wiring practices the slack is not where you need it or is wire-tied together
b) the air conditioning outlets attached to the dash panel
c) the radio
or a host of other details I was not able to remove the dash panel with the attached wires and components. Everything had to be disconnected.

4) The panel gets brittle with age, and must be handled with care to avoid cracking, especially at the screw holes and corners.

Regarding access under the driver's seat, I recommend you remove the seat from the post, then remove the post from the floor- the latter action only if you can unbolt from the floor without putting a wrench on the nuts. On my coach, Monaco welded the nuts in place, making it an easy unbolt from the top.

I have worked on the wiring without removing the driver's seat, but if you have to get under the seat it's a lot easier if it and the post are out of the way.

You'll find the plywood panel near the steering wheel shaft is just a cover for a steel plate. Getting behind that plate is very difficult.

I should have recommended this at the top, but before opening the dash I suggest finding the fuse that feeds the jacks and making sure it hasn't blown. It could save you a lot of time and effort.

I have wiring diagrams for your coach. If you send me a private message that includes your e-mail address, I'll send the diagrams to you. (Note: I seem to remember that I sent them to you previously.) Don't "publish" your e-mail address in public here, or the spammers will get it. Instructions on sending a private message are here.

[153stars]

My grandson pretending to drive, managed to knock wires off my jack panel. It's old school so all Staycon wire connectors to male spades on panel/switches no fancy plugs lol.
Even though I would for sure follow up and focus on the rat situation, don't rule out possibly being coincidence either or you could spend a lot of time on just one possibility. Been there done that.