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Old 03-31-2013, 10:02 AM   #1
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2007 Cayman XL 36 ft Alternator removal….

Hi all, just taken out Cayman out of winter storage and have two problems, the second being the alternator is not charging or holding the charge of the batteries, the output is only 11.98 volts from the alternator so needs to be removed and either reconditioned or replaced.
Has anyone removed an alternator from such a coach, if so are there any tricks of the trade I should be aware of before I start please?

Many thanks in advance for any help anyone can offer.

Kind regards
Steve
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Old 03-31-2013, 12:06 PM   #2
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Steve:

A friend of mine hade to remove the alternator from a 2009 38' Neptune with the north-south bed. The alternator is at the top of the engine and his access was easy. With the four slide you will have to open the "hidden" access panel that is inside the closet, directly in front of the visible access panel.

If it helps, the alternator is most likely a Leece-Neville 8LHP2253V.

8LHP2253V - Alternator Product Details | Prestolite / Leece-Neville

Dennis

p.s. Be sure to make a serpentine belt diagram before removing!
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Old 04-01-2013, 02:21 AM   #3
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Just thought

Dennis,

Thanks for the input, I have not yet checked the serpentine belt route, but the hand book does seem to suggest it’s a separate belt (not confirmed by me yet)...

The belt syndrome brings back memories, three coaches ago we had a Fleetwood Flair 34’ pusher with a 190HP GM V8 Diesel, that had a serpentine belt and it used to eat one sometimes two a year – no one ever managed to identify why – and I became apt at changing them, had it down to 3.5 minutes! First time it seemed to take hours.
The secret on that was to use the broken belt looped over the automatic tensioner to pull it down while laid on the road under the coach threading the new belt in place with the left hand… In the UK we are not to make any repairs if we breakdown in road works on a motorway (Freeway) and I lost a belt in such a situation, by the time the safety cameras had picked up the breakdown, I was out changed the belt and off before the recovery truck arrived! Moral of this story always carry a spare belt (or whatever it is your coach is prone to eating) and learn how to fit it.

Just thought, if this is a separate belt I wonder if it just needs tightening, but then surly I would hear it squealing as it slipped – wouldn’t I?

Cheers
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Old 04-01-2013, 04:45 AM   #4
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While you are in there, I would change all belts, and keep the old ones for spares.
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Old 04-01-2013, 05:50 AM   #5
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I have an 07 Neptune which is a sister coach to your cayman. Mine has the 325 HP Cummins like yours I believe. If like mine, the serpentine belt covers all the accessories except for the air conditioning compressor. It is spun by a seperate v belt. I changed mine while I had to take the radiator and CAC out so it was a piece of cake to change. Looks much harder with radiator and CAC in place. Good luck.
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Old 04-20-2013, 06:31 AM   #6
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Hello, sorry for the delay in getting back have only just had the opportunity to look at the problem, mainly the weather here. You are correct the serpentine belt covers all the accessories except for the air conditioning compressor. I have not yet pulled the alternator out, looks a difficult but not impossible job to do, but only want do it once, I agree with replacing the belts, that looks reasonably an easy job (he says!!) from within the wardrobe access point.

My issue with the engine running at approximately 1200 RPM the terminal voltage at the chassis batteries drops to 11.8 fluctuating to 11.9 (was 12.2 before I started the engine), so tested on the rear of the alternator main + output I get the same reading. The handbook says test on the B+ terminal, problem is I don’t know which that is (see pic) the alternator is generally looking in very poor condition.

Questions: Can anyone identify the B+ terminal for me?
Do I pull it out (not an easy task) clean all connections and lugs and then reinstall and recheck, or do I assume the alternator is shot and needs replacement?

Gut feel says it shot, but any experience out there that may say otherwise?

Many thanks in advance

Kind regards
Steve
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Old 04-20-2013, 12:55 PM   #7
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Steve:

These docucments may help:

Prestolite - Leece Neville

http://www.prestolite.com/literature..._Flowchart.pdf

There is a note that says: "NOTE: In some cases, dirty or corroded contact pads can cause a low charge condition and voltage adjustment may not be necessary."

Your photographs show somewhat "iffy" terminals.

Dennis
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Old 04-21-2013, 04:25 AM   #8
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Fantastic support thank you…

Hi Dennis,

Thanks for this, I had actually acquired the flow chart from another source which helped with the initial diagnostics, but not the actual Technical Services bulletin you kindly pointed me to.


Well I think it is time to put the tool box in the car and go back round to the storage compound and stat further investigations; I am hoping you are correct that a good clean of connectors and the contact pads will resolve the problem – fingers crossed.

I wholeheartedly agree with your comment “Your photographs show somewhat "iffy" terminals” that is why I am hoping we are looking at the cleaning as apposed to the replacement option.

I have discovered that Prestolite have a European factory here in the UK, but this model of alternator is not available and so far no alternative to offer.

Again fantastic support thank you… I will keep people posted!

Kindest regards
Steve
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