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Old 07-12-2013, 07:13 PM   #15
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Note on bottom left of schematic.
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File Type: pdf Front Distribution Wiring.pdf (145.6 KB, 33 views)
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Old 07-12-2013, 07:32 PM   #16
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I'm betting there's a ground issue in play. A relay isn't grounded or something similar?

Also, let me toss something else out just in case it hasn't already been considered? Some newer circuit designs incorporate switching not just on the positive side of the circuit, but on the negative side as well. These can be a real brain teaser if not considered while trouble shooting. Best of luck!
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Old 07-12-2013, 07:48 PM   #17
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Here's the full 12V Chassis Schematic specific to the 2007 -2010 Neptune.

The line weights will display in a heavy format. For easier reading goto View - Show/hide -Rulers & Grids - Line weight. This toggles the thickness.

Dennis
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Old 07-14-2013, 02:03 PM   #18
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Hot on the trail

.....it has been a hot couple days sorting through this. All of the diagrams have been helpful and I promise to send pics of this process when its done. I have sorted a variety of items along the way and am narrowing down the park brake signal issue. Here is an update -

No marker lights - bad harness connection at main headlight connector. - Fixed.
No right front marker light - bad light itself . Replaced.
Water leak in fresh tank. Valve replaced. Actually cracked body of valve - freeze?

On to daytime running lights/park brake issue.

Discovered that park brake sensor, located on park brake actuator was wired directly to and from the indicator light, I see in the diagrams that a diode should be in line. There were no other connections made of the parking brake circuit. I have located a few other wires in the dash that are all disconnected (single wires).

I have run through the various schematics and think I see how this all is suppposed to work but cant reconcile the wiring connections and paths. The park brake connection at the actuator goes to ground when activated. This would throw relays for shutting off the DRL and activating the park brake warning on the hydraulic gear controller and activate the dash light. None of this happens except the light. Feel free to throw in any corrections along the way. Ill try to lay this out the scene as best as possible:

If I pull the DRL relay from its socket the DRLs shut off.

Wire labeled Park Brake 199FC in the dash is connected to nothing. Can not locate other end.
Wire labeled Park Brake 199C is connected at DRL relay in front run bay. Cannot find other end.
Wire labeled Park Brake with no number at 15 pin dash harness connected to nothing, no idea of other end.
Wire labeled Park Brake with no number at 9 pin dash harness connected to nothing, no idea of other end.

I located wire labeled Park Brake 199A in the compartment with the brake actuator and shift controller. It was connected to nothing. I connected that to one side of the Park Brake actuator. I connected the other side of the actuator to a nearby ground. Cant find anything in this compartment that looked like the proper ground for this connection.

Any thoughts on completing connections for this circuit? Any info on wires labeled 199 and where to dig for them?

Best,
Chris
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Old 07-14-2013, 03:12 PM   #19
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Sounds like you have taken a large bite out of the elephant. Often fixing the obvious fixes other things or eliminates them. Since you have an issue with the DRL I would concentrate on that and just keep the loose wires for later. Often there are flying wires in dashes not hooked to anything.

Not looking at a schematic but if it calls for a diode and someone removed it there could be a backfeed keeping the DRL on.
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Old 07-14-2013, 06:58 PM   #20
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Stuck

I am having a hard time understanding the switch logic on the DRL relay. If I am reading it right, the normal unpowered state of the relay has the DRLs on by powering the Low Beams on pin 30 with the 12V from the DRL fuse on 87A. Since the Parking Brake input will either be open or grounded, then the only triggering voltage comes from the high beams?

And if you trigger your high beams only when the parking brake is set which means youre not moving, then the relay activates and disconnects the DRL voltage from the low beams and sends that voltage to ground on pin 87.

Can anyone make sense of this for me. That is how mine is connected and that is how the schematic reads and how it meters.

If all is correct then I am at a loss as to where to look to see why the DRLs never shut off (no matter whether the coach is on or off). Based on this relays logic as I see it, the only thing that would shut the DRLs off is to stop the incoming voltage on pin 87a and the only way to do that is to pull the fuse.

I am missing something here. The question is what?

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Chris
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Old 07-14-2013, 08:27 PM   #21
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Chris:

I just dug up the DRL diagram.

Dennis
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Old 10-15-2013, 05:14 PM   #22
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Gentlemen (each of you),
Though much belated, I want to thank all of you for you generous time and guidance as I sorted these elec issues. With the help of all the schematics and tips, I was able to get to the bottom of these issues and resolve or at least understand them. I could not have resolved them without you.
In conclusion for now at least,

The Parking Brake signal was a matter or a lot of wires labeled Park Brake but not in use. I was able to locate the ones needed and run new ones to the park brake actuator and get this system back working again.
The Daytime Running Lights turns out to be an improper relay installed in the DRL socket. It is a common relay and not the specific DRL relay needed (as indicated on one of the schematics you guys sent me). Though I have been unable to obtain the correct one, as it is not made anymore and there is no direct replacement. I at least know what the issue is and will keep on lookout for the correct part.

Again, A heartfelt thanks to you all for your assistance here.

Chris
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