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Old 12-15-2020, 03:07 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wadell View Post
I dont remember my wire numbers to my turn signal switch. there are 2 sets of switches, first is to for the blinkers, second is the high low head light switch. I think mine was the top section with the black connectors.
Key off headlight switch on, You should have 12 v at least one of the terminals for the dimmer switch when the headlights are on. IF you only have the 12v at one of those terminals, and not at another, you dimmer switch would be suspect. IF there is zero volts there, then you have to find the problem prior to that.

Mine has a smart wheel that the power for the headlights go thru. I also on mine have a DRL fuse for the headlights in one box and Headlight fuse in another. The only place the DRL fuse intersects the head lights is thru the DRL module. You should be able to put in a 5 pot relay for a moment with the headlight switch off and the headlights should come on. IF they dont then you may have a problem with the harness closer to the headlight wire harness.

When I got my coach had blown headlight fuse. This was due to a 4 pot relay installed into the DRL module port. With the headlights on, park brake off, flash the hi beams the headlight fuse blew. Removed the relay that was in the DRL module socket the fuse quit blowing. Installed DRL module, DRLs work, and headlights work.
Thanks for the info, I will test the TS012 switch tomorrow to see if I get the results you write about. On my last test I got 12vdc to wire 67 when I turned the light switch to the full on position. What I don't know is to what to do from that point.

I assume that since the DLR socket was empty and appears to have been empty for some time, that the empty socket should not cause the high/low lights to be inoperative.

I appreciate your time in trying to help me.

Mike
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Old 12-15-2020, 07:20 PM   #16
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The DLR circuit is parallel to the headlight circuit.

I pulled up my schematic again. The has a marker fuse in Box 1 DLR fuse headlight fuse. Those two power supplies run to the headlight switch, and to the VIP smart wheel controller. The direct power from my headlight switch fires a relay in the smart wheel controller to send power to the dimmer switch. Then the dimmer sends power to the headlights.

when i put a 5 spot relay into the DLR module the NC connections (87A and 30) put power from the DRL power supply (from fuse box 1) to the low beam circuit. bypassing the headlight switch, high beam switch, headlight power supply, and smart wheel controller.

Not knowing the exact layout you have, I can only point you in the directions I took. IF you could get a chassis schematic from Monaco, could use that to trace out the circuits. On mine, I zoomed in and with the pointer from the mouse on the screen followed the wires around as I moved the schematic on the screen.

But if you had a power at the dimmer switch that you could turn on and off with the light switch, but only in one spot, that would point to the turn signal/dimmer switch. IF you cant get that power at the dimmer that you can control with the headlight switch then your problem is upstream of the dimmer switch. (in mine fuse and or smart wheel controller)

I will look around for a chassis schematic for your coach, if I can find one, will let you know what I see. Its a bummer that they dont have wire numbers on the wires...
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Old 12-15-2020, 08:36 PM   #17
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Found something interesting. Looks like they made some jumpers to use IF a smart wheel controller wasn't used. Took a pic and posted. (computering isn't my strongest suit) IF this is what you have, without a smart wheel, and you don't get 12v you can turn off and on with the headlight switch, try and find these plugs and check the jumpers.

The other thing on this schematic that I was looking over, has individual relays to run the low beams and high beams. My coach does not have these, but where mine carries the amps thru the Smart wheel and light switches, works the same way as one that would use the relays to carry the heavy load of the headlights.

IF you don't have a smart wheel, the jumpers are good, and you get 12v into and out of the dimmer switch at least the low beams or high beams should work, as the signal to turn the headlights on would be present but loads have 2 different fuses for high and low beams.

IF you don't have high beam and low beam relays, no smart wheel, with good jumpers, you should have 12v into and out of the dimmer switch, that you can turn off and on with the headlight switch.

Good luck

schematic i found the jumpers on https://onedrive.live.com/?authkey=%...%21413&o=OneUp
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Old 12-16-2020, 07:42 AM   #18
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[ATTACH][ATTACH][/ATTACH][/ATTACH]I'm a little late to the thread but parts don't generally evaporate and then cause things to not work. They will usually leave a carbon trace and the smell of smoke.

Definitely looks like a relay socket and you could pull one of the bosh relays out next to it and you will see the pinouts probably will match that empty one.

I would not populate that relay holder in any case. You are trying to find out why the headlights do not NOW work, versus they never worked.

I will dig into my schematics and see if I can help you work backwards from the headlights versus forward from the light switch.

Looks like Wadell is on track with great information. Maybe I can add a few tricks to chase it down.
-----------------------------------------

The overall schematic is really cramped so zoom in to get to the section I cut out and noted. Use the Ctrl button on your keyboard and hit the number 5 at the same time to sharpen the image.

The cutout shows the two relays I think you have on that front run board.

Check the voltage on the fuses shown that control those lights.. You should then pull the relays out and put your meter on the pin that is the control voltage for the lights. This voltage should show on one but not likely both at the same time. I believe based on the schematic that they simply toggle that control voltage from one to the other.

If you are not getting the control voltage you can use a simple jumper to bypass either relays contacts and you should get lights. If not, you have more than one problem.

None of this assumes there have not been previous modifications to they systems. Some folks have had "dim headlights" and made changes.

If you get to the point where bypassing the relay, one and then the other and are satisfied things work from there out it is time to move towards the control. I noticed a device that looks like a relay on the schematic but it does not show well. I will do some further digging but this may get you back out of that area and looking back at the vip control box.
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Old 12-16-2020, 08:17 AM   #19
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Some files. A bit redundant and generic but might help.
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File Type: pdf SmartWheelSchematic for freightliner.pdf (196.3 KB, 22 views)
File Type: pdf SmartWheelTroubleshooting.pdf (331.2 KB, 12 views)
File Type: pdf Steering Wheel Trouble Shooting Guide.pdf (401.5 KB, 17 views)
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Old 12-16-2020, 10:38 AM   #20
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You can’t put a relay in the Hamsar DRL module socket. It is the same as a Standard Bosch relay But the NO pin 87 goes to ground. High beam would put power to one side of the relay, while the other side will go to ground When the park brake is released firing the relay In the hamsar socket causing the common pin 30 that has the low beam power to close to Ground on 87. All of that happens with a relay that doesn’t have the normally closed 87a pin on the relay. Put a relay wirh all 5 pins the DRL power supply on 87a will be on the normally closed to 30 and turn on the headlights wirh no control over the headlights.
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Old 12-16-2020, 08:04 PM   #21
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Mike,

Marks schematic he posted is pretty good, Zooming in you can find the headlight fuse pretty much straight up from the headlight switch. The DRL socket is powered from the Monaco 3 fuse box.
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Old 12-17-2020, 08:26 AM   #22
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How does he change his hi/lo beams?? You stated he does not have a VIP wheel. If it is on the column like cars can you access the wiring there?

Is the change from lo to high done by putting the lever into a forward or backward action versus it just toggles. That is, a press or pull causes the change and then the lever returns to a center point.

I'm trying to determine if it passes through a relay of some kind or simply applys a ground. If it is sending a ground to the high low relays (or hot), the switch would have a third wire to carry that signal.

Based on the looks of your front run bay which looks identical to mine the relays are controlled by a 12 volt signal versus sending a ground to them. The relays are grounded on the panel.
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Old 12-17-2020, 10:14 AM   #23
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From what I see, the smart wheel runs the headlights and marker lights in parallel to the headlight switch. However, the headlight switch with the smart wheel doesn't directly operate the headlights. The headlight switch tells the smart wheel controller to close a relay to sent power to the dimmer switch, the coulomb blinker switch.

In the different schematics I looked at, there are 2 to three options. One is the smart wheel, and what that does is allow you to blink the head and marker lights with the push of a button on the steering wheel, with headlights on or off... The other two are if the headlights are powered straight thru the dimmer switch or the dimmer switch operate relays to turn on the head lights.

When it comes to testing the switch in place, the one schematic had numbers on the dimmer switch wires, think it was 19,20, and21. with the supply from the headlight switch directly or via a smart wheel controller coming in on the 20. Then it either goes out directly to the high or low beams OR to the high beam relay or low beam relay which then turn on the headlights.
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Old 12-17-2020, 05:01 PM   #24
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I appreciate your responses to my plea for help.

Using the information provided in various posts I was able to determine the problem with the headlights not working is in the steering column turn signal switch. i found that wire #67 in the black harness was the headlight power lead and verified this by turning on and off the light switch on the dashboard. I then removed the signal switch and jumped a wire from wire #67 to other wires until the headlights turned on, which was awesome.

I forgot to test the high/low function but since the headlights were working, I assume the high/low function will work as do the headlights.

I couldn't have ever come up with the resources you all provided and took your valuable time to help me. I am overwhelmed with the IRV2 community and am thankful for all your help.

May you have a blessed holiday season.

Mike
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Old 12-17-2020, 06:27 PM   #25
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Great job for your brother! Thanks for letting us know. Had I looked closely at the very first picture I would have seen the switch. Looks like it should be easy to replace.
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Old 04-19-2021, 04:30 PM   #26
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Hi Mike,

I'm looking for a replacement switch for a 2007 HR Neptune XL. No low beams, hi beams ok, shorting DRL pin 87a to 30 results in headlights that can't be shut off... so I'm down to the switch not sending an activation voltage to the low beam relay.

Just wondering if anybody knows what they used in these things?
Thanks in advance,
Craig
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