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Old 01-13-2018, 04:34 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by Happycarz View Post
If the motor is bad, the following is the motor that fits my coach, same as Perry’s coach.

Grainger 3LCH7 1/35 HP Motor

https://www.grainger.com/product/DAY...rchQuery=3LCH7
Harry, tell me how you removed the whole mechanism to replace the motor. And what kind of belt or gear reduction drives the screw? Thanks!
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Old 01-13-2018, 07:10 PM   #16
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Not sure if you have the same step cover as in 2013 Diplomat but I had similar issues. I thought it was the motor or other electrical problem but mine was mechanical. It would jam because the design uses sloppily installed rivets to attach the moving parts. Additionally, the compartment was not well sealed so road dirt enters and fouls the slides.

I ended up removing the whole mechanism, replacing the slides as well as the rivets. I used nylon bushings and bolts with nylock washers to attach. Essentially, the whole mechanism was rebuilt.

The photo shows it reinstalled, fully extended before the cover was put on.

It works better than new and is much quieter than original.

Unfortunately it is not a task I would undertake on the road. It was time intensive and a lot of parts runs.
43,

What is the procedure for removing the entire unit from the coach? Will probably have to do that. You could probably save me some time figuring it out.

Are you going to be at Quartzsite?
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Old 01-13-2018, 10:12 PM   #17
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Van, The assembly can be removed if you remove the two screws from the angle iron mount on the front kick. Then pull the step assembly out. The wire connection should be zip tied near the motor. That connection is where the wires sometimes get cut.
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Old 01-14-2018, 07:40 AM   #18
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Van, The assembly can be removed if you remove the two screws from the angle iron mount on the front kick. Then pull the step assembly out. The wire connection should be zip tied near the motor. That connection is where the wires sometimes get cut.
Thanks, Mike! I should have thought of that. I was expecting some fasteners hidden behind the motor. I'll yank it out next time we are stopped.
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Old 01-16-2018, 02:56 PM   #19
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Mike, take a look at this...

Mike, unbolting the assembly from that front piece of angle iron does release the entire mechanism as an assembly. BUT I cannot slide it straight out any way I can figure. When facing the step cover from outside, the latch side of the door framing overhangs the opening. The opening becomes narrower than the step cover assembly--it overhangs the opening about 3".

I can't see any way to remove the mechanism without drilling out several pop rivets and disassembling it piece by piece, but there would be no way to replace those pop rivets in place--the "head" side of them would be inaccessible. With quite a bit of work, I can continue to disassemble this thing to the point it comes out in pieces. But how I would get it back in as an assembly I cannot figure out. I think I'm missing something. What is it?

If nothing else, we will be at Q in a few days, and you can see it first-hand. I was hoping to at least get it removed before then.
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Old 01-16-2018, 04:57 PM   #20
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Mike, unbolting the assembly from that front piece of angle iron does release the entire mechanism as an assembly. BUT I cannot slide it straight out any way I can figure. When facing the step cover from outside, the latch side of the door framing overhangs the opening. The opening becomes narrower than the step cover assembly--it overhangs the opening about 3".



I can't see any way to remove the mechanism without drilling out several pop rivets and disassembling it piece by piece, but there would be no way to replace those pop rivets in place--the "head" side of them would be inaccessible. With quite a bit of work, I can continue to disassemble this thing to the point it comes out in pieces. But how I would get it back in as an assembly I cannot figure out. I think I'm missing something. What is it?



If nothing else, we will be at Q in a few days, and you can see it first-hand. I was hoping to at least get it removed before then.


Van, when I redesigned my step area, Kim had ask Harry if his was the same size due to the same issue. Mine was more complicated, in that they did not install it straight either. I had to hold my tongue a certain way, remove the whole front, and a few words later it was in my lap. Don’t know if I could repeat that. But I can share and help.
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Old 01-17-2018, 09:25 AM   #21
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Van, In the picture the angle strips that attach to the lift brackets can be pulled apart so lift drops down for more clearance.
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Old 01-18-2018, 08:25 AM   #22
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43,

What is the procedure for removing the entire unit from the coach? Will probably have to do that. You could probably save me some time figuring it out.

Are you going to be at Quartzsite?
Mine would not slide out. It is too wide and deep and regardless how I lifted or twisted it there just wasn't enough clearance. It required disassembly.

There is a Molex plug under the coach that is easy to access for removing power to the motor. You should not have to cut any wires. The wire access hole is large enough to push the end attached to the motor into the step cover compartment.

I had to remove the the front angle iron piece from the step cover assembly. Mine was riveted on to the slide with steel rivets. Due to limited access I ground the rivet heads off, removed the rivets, removed the screw drive from the front and slid the entire assembly out.

Once you get it out and bench test it, I think you'll find it works. But there is so much slop in the assembly that the over center locks that keep the step up and move it down when retracted would lock up. That was the problem with mine along with the slides being filled with road grit. Which is why I rebuilt and in my opinion improved on the original.

Again, I would not try it on the road. I'm not going to Quartzsite but I am in the Phoenix area. Also feel free converse off-line if you think I help.
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Old 01-22-2018, 10:13 AM   #23
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I’m certain now that there is no way to remove this step cover from within the stairwell, no matter how it is wiggled. The door frame reduces the width available for withdrawal by about 4”. Also, there does not appear to be any way to disassemble it to remove it in a way that it could be replaced—during the re-installation, many pop rivet locations would be inaccessible. Additionally, the leads on the motor were so short that the Molex connector prevented it from being withdrawn more than a couple of inches.

I’m going to look at it again today (warmer today) and see if it can be removed from beneath.
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Old 01-22-2018, 10:47 AM   #24
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Van,
I have read on some older threads here on IRV2 that at least some coaches
have an access panel under the coach on the vertical wall where the motor
attaches .
They mentioned that to get to it the gen needs to be out of the way so
hopefully your is on a slide .
It may be covered by insulation spray .
You may have already tried this but some have mentioned that the mechanism
had jammed against one end of travel and they freed it buy turning the screw with
lock pliers .
Sounds like you have your hands full out there in Q .
Good luck .

Ray
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Old 01-22-2018, 09:08 PM   #25
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I’m certain now that there is no way to remove this step cover from within the stairwell, no matter how it is wiggled. The door frame reduces the width available for withdrawal by about 4”. Also, there does not appear to be any way to disassemble it to remove it in a way that it could be replaced—during the re-installation, many pop rivet locations would be inaccessible. Additionally, the leads on the motor were so short that the Molex connector prevented it from being withdrawn more than a couple of inches.



I’m going to look at it again today (warmer today) and see if it can be removed from beneath.


Sorry couldn’t have been more help Van.
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Old 01-23-2018, 08:42 AM   #26
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I’m certain now that there is no way to remove this step cover from within the stairwell, no matter how it is wiggled. The door frame reduces the width available for withdrawal by about 4”. Also, there does not appear to be any way to disassemble it to remove it in a way that it could be replaced—during the re-installation, many pop rivet locations would be inaccessible. Additionally, the leads on the motor were so short that the Molex connector prevented it from being withdrawn more than a couple of inches.

I’m going to look at it again today (warmer today) and see if it can be removed from beneath.
Van - it can be removed but not from underneath.

Slide generator out and unplug Molex from underneath.

Remove rivets on front angle iron - drill or grind off heads. When you reinstall, replace rivets with low profile bolts and lock nuts.
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Old 01-23-2018, 08:56 AM   #27
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Van - it can be removed but not from underneath.

Slide generator out and unplug Molex from underneath.

Remove rivets on front angle iron - drill or grind off heads. When you reinstall, replace rivets with low profile bolts and lock nuts.
The problem with this coach is that the stairwell is wider than the door opening. No matter how you move it, you cannot get it past the door facing. I've gotten it out, though, by partially disassembling it. I'll take it home and re-make it so it can be inserted "collapsed" and then assembled.

BTW, the original problem was likely that one of the two switches shorted out and extended the slide, then maintained power. The motor was burned up inside.
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Old 01-23-2018, 02:55 PM   #28
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Glad you found the issue now Van. You’ll make it better for sure!
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