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Old 11-06-2018, 06:59 PM   #43
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vanwill View Post
The motor is a very wimpy one. It draws only 4 amps at full load. When stalled, it will draw more, but might not draw enough to blow a fuse.

The mechanism, although ingenious, is crude and crudely executed. It can easily bind in a way that the motor cannot overcome. That might explain why you only have the problem in one direction.
If it jammed, would I be able to get it moving if I pushed on it? I've tried that several times while my wife pushes the retract direction on the rocker switch. Nothing. Can't budge it even a mm. short touch on the extent, and out she comes. short or long touch on the retract, nothing. I've studied the underneath carefully (even when it was being extended) and I see nothing that says binding mechanism. Is it possible for a switch (remember, there are two rocker switches for the cover) to fail on "one side" (retract) and not the other (extend)?


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Old 11-06-2018, 08:01 PM   #44
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dalemschultz View Post

Is it possible for a switch (remember, there are two rocker switches for the cover) to fail on "one side" (retract) and not the other (extend)?


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Of course it's possible but not as likely for both to fail exactly the same .

In messages 35 & 36 you were trying to check out the possibility of the sw
being bad on the retract side .
You said you performed the ck and it didn't help .
Are you sure you swapped the wires properly as per Myron ?

Ray
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Old 11-07-2018, 03:07 AM   #45
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If you can reach the motor wires connect your voltmeter as close as possible. It should tell you everything you need to know. Getting close to the motor can be a pain.

You could measure the voltage on the switches but that probably will not tell the story.

I would find a good ground for the meter or make one and then start measuring. Measure both sides of the motor when going in and out. Of course the in does not work but you need those measurements.
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Old 11-07-2018, 08:34 PM   #46
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Originally Posted by RamiDav View Post
Of course it's possible but not as likely for both to fail exactly the same .

In messages 35 & 36 you were trying to check out the possibility of the sw
being bad on the retract side .
You said you performed the ck and it didn't help .
Are you sure you swapped the wires properly as per Myron ?

Ray
Thanks Ray,


I was careful to swap the extend and the retract wires on one of the switches. It occurred to me that maybe I need to do that with both switches? Then try to retract.


Dale
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Old 11-07-2018, 08:36 PM   #47
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Originally Posted by YC1 View Post
If you can reach the motor wires connect your voltmeter as close as possible. It should tell you everything you need to know. Getting close to the motor can be a pain.

You could measure the voltage on the switches but that probably will not tell the story.

I would find a good ground for the meter or make one and then start measuring. Measure both sides of the motor when going in and out. Of course the in does not work but you need those measurements.
Thanks for the suggestion Myron. I'll withdraw the generator and get up under there. Is that the best direction to approach from?


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Old 11-08-2018, 05:16 AM   #48
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Dale, you do not need to do the swap on both switches.

I do not know how to get to the motor without ape arms. I am sure someone will let us know.
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Old 11-08-2018, 05:33 AM   #49
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I think I may be onto something. Looking at you switches something bugged me and it is the lack of wires. That is if a simple switch is used to reverse polarity on two wires to run a motor then more of the switch posts would be in use.

I am studying the schematic closer and will post comments soon. It appears the schematic I posted that says "not necessarily mine" may apply to your setup.

Your switches appear to be operating two relays. Why they are using two motors is strange to me at this stage and yours may not have two but I am betting one of the relays is acting up. Stand by for further information.
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Old 11-08-2018, 05:56 AM   #50
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This schematic is not clear on how the two motors are wired. So If I rely on the schematic portion to be correct then it appears that one relay supplies a ground when activated and the other relay supplies positive voltage. It does not appear they are reversing any polarity such as one would do with a winch motor etc.

If two motors are being used it appears they have run power to one motor and power to the other and then the other wires on the motors are run back to the relays. That is they are supplying ground to one motor and ground to the other to activate them.

Sorry if this is clear as mud. However I would concentrate on finding where those relays are and I suspect they may be in the front run panel area.

A signal tracer would help you chase them down.
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Old 11-08-2018, 11:33 PM   #51
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10 Boomer's is a variation of mine and yours hopefully is close to ours. Look in the front run bay and check the 2 or 3, depending on which team built it, black cube relays that are positioned off of the PCB, high up, and toward the front of the coach.

On my coach 1 (rear one) is for the tag axle that I donít have and the other 2 are for the step cover. One is extend and one is retract. You could substitute 2 of the PCB relays to make sure your fault is not there. But, on my coach with either relay out, the cover was dead. Both had to be in place for it to work. Just swapping out the relays would be a quick check, though.

Also, if you would like, I could send you the factory wiring diagram, along with many PDF's for the different systems onboard your coach.
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Old 11-09-2018, 12:00 AM   #52
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The 2009 Camelot uses the wiring that states (not necessarily Endeavor). I would post it here, but my iPad iRV2 app doesnít give me that option. That, or Iím missing something. Pictures and URL's no problem though

Below shows the location of the step cover relays.

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Old 11-09-2018, 02:59 AM   #53
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Reversing those two relays should actually reverse the problem. Would go in but not out.

However, these things are cheap and a couple of new ones would be an easy test. Or as suggested, pull a couple from some unrelated slot for a test.
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Old 11-09-2018, 11:41 AM   #54
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Myron & Harry,


You guys are working overtime for me! Can't tell you how much I appreciate your above and beyond efforts. Wow!


Okay, so I only see one motor in the back panel of the step cover enclosure, if that helps Myron. The relays are an area I've been to before regarding headlights & running lights. I was reading in the manual about relays and they get pretty specific (for once) about types of relays. I'll pick up a few this pm at the Auto Zone, but how do I compare relays there? Is a relay replacement good if the "feet" look the same? Additionally, do the markings (if any?) on the relay's side have to match up as well. Relays seem to be like fuses, I go through them. Will a continuity check on a relay help determine it's fitness or if it's bad?


Again, many thanks!
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Old 11-09-2018, 12:03 PM   #55
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Happycarz View Post
The 2009 Camelot uses the wiring that states (not necessarily Endeavor). I would post it here, but my iPad iRV2 app doesnít give me that option. That, or Iím missing something. Pictures and URL's no problem though

Below shows the location of the step cover relays.

Attachment 225404
Hi Harry,
Perry has relayed to me how helpful you've been with him and I'm stoked that you're helping me! I noticed in your picture a clear plastic "brochure-type holder". What do you utilize that for. Might be a good place for extra relays, headlamps, etc.



Thank you,


Dale
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Old 11-09-2018, 12:06 PM   #56
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Happycarz View Post
The 2009 Camelot uses the wiring that states (not necessarily Endeavor). I would post it here, but my iPad iRV2 app doesnít give me that option. That, or Iím missing something. Pictures and URL's no problem though

Below shows the location of the step cover relays.

Attachment 225404
Also Harry,
Your picture of the main mother-board was labeled so well! what's the procedure you use to insert the image and put typed labels with arrows on it?


Learning...
Dale
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