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Old 08-06-2022, 02:28 PM   #1
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3 levelers

I have a 2005 Monaco Diplomat. I love the coach but I'm trying to figure out why it has 1 front leveler and 2 rear. The setup works fine for leveling but doesn't eliminate rocking when you enter the coach and feels like a small earthquake when the washer goes into a spin cycle. I've gotten some small tripod house jacks and put them under the shock/airbag mount right behind the front tires, helps a lot but we still wobble when entering the coach or doing laundry. Anyone had the same experience and come up with a better solution? Thanks
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Old 08-06-2022, 03:22 PM   #2
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It's to prevent flexing the frame too much and potentially cracking the windshield.
The front jack acts as a pivot point and needs to be lowered first at least some.

Here are some captions from the Owner's Manual p. 357-358:
Using an improper leveling process can result in applying excess torsional stress to the chassis and body resulting in damage to the windshield or entry door malfunction....

In the event the front of the motorhome is high and does not require elevating, it will be necessary to raise front of motorhome a minimum of Ĺ inch to allow jacks to act as a pivot point.


You can download a manual from this link:
https://www.monacocoach.com/service-...pairs/#manuals
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Old 08-06-2022, 03:24 PM   #3
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The 3 jack system helped alleviate the frame torqueing that caused windshields to pop out. I like the system. Newer 4 jack systems only allow the jacks to work in pairs to reduce the frame rwist.
FYI, I currently have the newer 4 jack and auto level system, but still prefer the 3 jack.
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Old 08-06-2022, 03:38 PM   #4
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I have no issues with my 3 jack system and after moving up from a travel trailer with screw jacks to a 5'er with electric 4 jack auto level I am perfectly happy with the small amount of movement in my rig. It's not a house so don't expect it to be completely solid.
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Old 08-06-2022, 05:35 PM   #5
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If possible, level up with air in the bags. As long as it is not too high of course. The airbags give you additional stability. Nothing says you have to let the air out and the manual probably states to run the slides in and out with air in anyway.

I have placed a jack stand under my tow hitch on occasion.
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Old 08-06-2022, 07:04 PM   #6
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Have you tried to bump a little more pressure on each stand manually. I only level manually to make sure front is down firmly first and auto doesn't get coach up too high and put any extra strain . Even with all bags low , I'm pretty rock steady I suppose slides may create more teetering.
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Old 08-07-2022, 08:50 AM   #7
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I like the 3 levels, and thanks for the replies. I never thought of leaving the airbags inflated, I'll give it a try. It's just that without stabilizing the front it feels like being in a cheap hotel vibrating bed when doing laundry. :-)
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Old 08-07-2022, 05:00 PM   #8
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Just a thought . Makes me wonder if shipping clamp/screws were ever removed that secure the WD suspension for shipping before it was installed in cabinet.
I missed the instructions sticker on my home front loader it was wild. The Splendid drum is only about 1/3 the size.
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Old 08-07-2022, 07:30 PM   #9
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Where is your WD mounted.

Ours still shakes the MH noticeably. Not being able to lock it down in the rear I placed some anti-skid material on the top and dropped a board over the top. Screwing a runner board along each side such that they push down on that large board has stabilized it a lot.
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Old 08-08-2022, 09:48 AM   #10
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Before we bought our 04 Imperial, we owned a 97 Endeavor which has 2 front jacks, as opposed to the Imperial with one. The two jacks in the front of the Endeavor were cross connected so that they acted as one. The port/ starboard leveling was accomplished by the rear jacks and the front jacks would not offer any tilt resistance because of the cross connection. The fore/aft tilt was accomplished used by adjusting either the front or rear jacks. So the twisting of the frame is reduced in both cases

In a motorhome the rear weighs much more than the front, the suspension in the rear has more roll resistance than the front. The cross connection of the front airbags reduces the roll resistance of the front and helps the tires to keep on the ground during a hard turn.

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Old 08-10-2022, 08:19 AM   #11
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On ours I always used the air leveling because when I would use the hydraulic I noticed the rear closet doors would slide extremely hard. Finally dawned on me one time that it must twist the coach ever so slightly when using the jacks. Sure enough, leveled with the air and the closet doors slid smoothly. This was on an extremely level site, just needed the front to raise a small bit. I can only imagine what kind of twist could be put on if the site were none to level. I really thought the way Monaco built these frames was rock solid, but on a 44' coach they really have a lot of movement.
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Old 08-16-2022, 05:13 PM   #12
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3 is as good as 4

I have leveled my rig way up in the air on the one jack. I was surprised how stable it was. It was way above the ability of the road leveling system.

I will say the first time I had to level it at the top of its range, I didn't sleep all that well. However, over the years it never failed me or caused any problems with alignment of doors or such.

Mike
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Old 08-16-2022, 05:16 PM   #13
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I have a2007 Holiday Rambler Imperial 42'. Three levelers. Combination hydraulic/air leveling. I use the auto all the time and it works great. I will, occasionally, manually level in odd circumstances. My leveling panel will indicate "Twist" if you do it manually incorrectly.
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Old 08-17-2022, 10:23 AM   #14
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Air leveling

We have a 2012 Holiday Rambler Ambassador. We almost exclusively auto level with the airbags. Rarely are we unable to get level.
We have often wondered, though, about using both systems together. Seems like it would be super stable. If used together, which one first?
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