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aRVowl · 10-09-2013, 04:29 PM

Turn the ignition key on, Instruments lite up (sometimes "AltCharge" illuminates), turn key to "Start" hear relay/solenoid click, then nothing & instruments go dead. Cycle key (off-on) and no instruments lite up...all is dead, come back 5 min latter and turn key on, instruments lite up, turn key to start and hear click/instruments go off!!!

Battery has 12.8Vs at it's terminals and the same voltage is at the terminals, on the starter back, irregardless if instruments are illuminated or not.

Just went back for photos, about 3 hrs latter, and she's 100% dead at the key, with 12.8V at the battery. House batteries start the generator, but ignition is still dead with generator running.

Suspect there's a bad relay or solenoid in the circuit? If so, how do I find it?

Thanks in Advance for all suggestions

Paul

96 Windsor

Phoenix AZ

jd7566 · 10-09-2013, 05:01 PM

I had a similar issue with my 1999 Diplomat. The small terminal on the starter solenoid that comes from the starter relay had corroded to the point that it was a mass of rust. I replaced the starter and solenoid assembly, replaced the corroded cable end and haven't had any trouble since.

Dupdyke · 10-09-2013, 05:24 PM

Which solenoid was that I have three plus the one on the starter itself I replaced the three in the run bays and checked all the wire connectors for corrosion but sometimes it still wont start without gen running.

BFlinn181 · 10-09-2013, 05:43 PM

Try cleaning ground strap from engine to frame. To see if it might help, fasten battery jumper cable from engine to frame and see if it starts better. Problem with using a multimeter to test voltage at the starter is it is a very small current, while current needed to start is very high and any resistance in bad connections can cause issues.

aRVowl · 10-09-2013, 06:30 PM

Thanks to all prior posters. Will try to "Jump to Ground" and advise tomorrow, in the interim, here's more info
Oups...forgot to add that when she went totally dead, at the end of our play date, I disconnected/reconnected the battery in a feeble attempt to reboot any stuck relay/solenoid, but that did nothing ( maybe I need to reload the punch-cards..LOL). No corrosion is evident on any connection...just to to add a bit of info.

Paul

BFlinn181 · 10-09-2013, 06:35 PM

Do you have a battery 'boost' switch on the dashboard that ties the house batteries into the chassis batteries? Try pressing that switch as you crank the engine and see if it turns stronger. Another indication of a poor connection somewhere in the chassis system.

aRVowl · 10-09-2013, 07:14 PM

I must confess ... house batteries are another story. I am in the process of changing out my two, BIG 12V batteries with four 6Vs. In my unit I need to modify the battery tray ( cut out back), been putting that off as the local temps have just broken the triple didgets, so have been waiting for cooler weather. I concur it would help if I could supplement the cranking side with the house side, but cranking should stand by it's self. In the interim, since the coach is in "winter storage" and I don't need house batteries, I've pulled the big cells and replaced it with an auto level battery just to keep the circuits intact, so the car 800 CCA battery wont do much good to crank the 6C8.3. Just FYI Thanks for your inputs...Paul

aRVowl · 10-11-2013, 09:24 PM

It was a ground problem. I jumped the ground and while better the circuit would still "drop dead" after an engine turn or two. I had checked the battery post connection and it seemed tight, but thought why not give it a couple of ratchet cranks. Tightened it till I saw the yoke start to bend and gave it a crank try...magic, she cranked right up...strong as ever!!! Thanks for all the help.