'99 HR Endeavor 35WDS Entry Door Latch

[rjjastone]

I've been unable to locate any previous threads which would provide information as to the most effective way (i.e., most simple, easiest, least likely to lose screws, etc.) to access the screw(s) securing the OEM TriMark 030-0400 External Latch located inside the interior space of our Entry Door. I need to remove the latch to inspect/clean the keylock cylinder, which FREQUENTLY will not allow the key to fully enter the cylinder to accurately locate the tumbler pins into their "unlocked" positions, preventing the cylinder's rotatation. Frustratingly, OCCASIONALLY the key inserts fully, and the latch unlocks/locks just as pretty as you please -- go figure! I'm sincerely hoping that this entire procedure can be accomplished through the interior door release access panel, and does NOT require disassembly of the door frame!

Once again, I seek to tap the infinite wisdom of the iRV2 community's vast experience, which has helped me out on so many previous occasions.

Thank you for any written procedure, link to previous thread, photos, etc.

Best Regards, Russ

[Jon_C]

Its not hard, my rig has exact same latch and deadbolt. Ive had mine apart several times over the years.

Remove the 3 screws holding the large plastic piece around the interior latch. Then 2 screws inside the latch then 2 screws on deadbolt.

This gives access to everything. Pay close attention and take pics of the inside before removing to help get back together. Aligning the deadbolt and getting it back together is the hardest part.

Sounds like the cylinder needs lube or something binding inside.

[veraken]

Here's a good lube to use. You might want to try it before taking everything apart.

https://www.amazon.com/HOUD1-Houdini...37&sr=8-2&th=1

[jacwjames]

I had to go further into mine to fix the door so it would open easier. It had gotten to the point where I could barely open the door pulling on the handle with a lot of effort, and my wife had a much harder time.

The first time I did it was ~4 years ago, I took the entire inside skin off not knowing how far I was going to have to go into it. I found that there was a simple adjustment to a long coupling nut that connected two short rods together, one turn of the nut and the door opened much easier.

Last year it started to get hard to open so I didn't wait too long to dig into it but I only loosened the inside skin so I could get at the location and used a couple boards to hold the skin off the door. This made it much faster to do the work. Made the simple adjustment again and can open the door with one finger now.

[rjjastone]

Thanks to all for your reponses. I'm planning to get into the door this weekend, and see if I can get the exterior latch removed. On my HR, I'll have to work through a small 10" x 21" access panel, with the exterior latch assembly being positioned 6"-8" below the interior opening. The larger, full height interior panel is completely trapped within the door frame channels, so if additional access is necessary, I'll have to open up the frame -- somehow!

I'll post a follow-up w/ photo(s), once I get further into this project.

Again, thanks for the encouragement.

[rjjastone]

1. Realizing that access to my entry latch mounting bracket nut was not going to happen through the provided interior access opening, I was consigned to face my fears and bust into the door assembly since the edges of the interior door panel blocking access to the backside of the exterior latch is fully retained within the door's perimeter channels. Using ALL of the power available from my DeWalt 20V Impact Driver (even breaking one Philips bit), I removed all the screws retaining the door's rear edge channel to the frame, except the top two which were only loosened in order to maintain vertical support of the channel. Beginning at the bottom and pulling the channel back out away from the door frame, I was able to free the interior door panel edge, pull it back slightly and easily gain adequate access to the retaining bracket and nut at the rear of the latch.

2. After releasing two linkage retaining clips, I easily removed the latch along with those two links from the outside of the door.

3. I then removed the C-ring and lever from the end of the lock cylinder, allowing it to slip out of the front of the latch casting.

4. As can be seen in the last two photos, my "ah-ha" moment came when I saw that the 6th (innermost) lock pin slider was bent (and broken), preventing my key from full insertion into the slot to properly push the remaining five slider pins out into their "unlock" positions.

5. Realizing at this point that I could simply remove the broken slider pieces from the cylinder and convert the OEM 6-slider lock to a 5-slider configuration, I am currently communicating with TriMark Corp to see if I they can supply a new replacement slider pin of the proper configuration (w/ spring) to replace the damaged slider. Barring my ability to obtain a suitable replacement slider pin and spring, I will simply reassemble my newly reconfigured 5-slider lock cylinder into the latch, and be on my merry way, having saved approximately $100, learning a little something, and all the while retaining the use of my original key! As Col. John 'Hannibal' Smith of The A-Team TV series used to crow. . . , "I love it when a plan comes together"!

Once again, many thanks to the iRV2 experts who responded to my plea for help, and I sincerely hope that this post helps someone else on the site who may find themselves in a similar situation.

HAPPY TRAVELS!!

[rjjastone]

FYI, for those who may wish to purchase a replacement lock cylinder for a TriMark 030-0400 entry door latch, it uses a TM 14074-xx lock cylinder, where "xx" is key code.

I was able to purchase a new 6-pin cylinder lock cylinder w/ key, along w/ a 2nd TriMark key for just over $16 (delivered) from www.austinhardware.com. Their price was just over 1/2 of what TriMark wanted for these same items.