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Old 09-15-2018, 11:07 PM   #1
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Accuslide cable access

I've read lots of posts on replacing cable slides on the Accuslide system, and references to removing the trim panels, but I'm having trouble visualizing just what needs to come out to access the cables and rollers. Ours has a bottom section with drawers and a shelf below the window. Can anyone provide some details as to just what i have to rip out to get to the cables? The slide comes in about half way and then stalls.
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Old 09-16-2018, 06:22 AM   #2
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I had an 07 Scepter, the cables on mine were behind a removable piece of wood trim at the top of slide out room....Bruce
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Old 09-16-2018, 07:10 AM   #3
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Slide Cables

Our 2008 Cayman XL has an accuslide and the cables are on the top. Remove the front flat trim piece and then it will have about 4 - 6 screws that hold the header box on. Unscrew the header box and you will see the cables and motor. I watched several youtube videos and replaced it easily (two person job, one outside and one inside when feeding the new cable). Ours had NOT broken, but was in bad shape on the slide end. If the header box pieces are siliconed in, be gentle in taking then off.
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Old 09-16-2018, 07:44 AM   #4
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I had the same issue with my Cayman. Mine are easily accessed by removing the facade above the slide, which are just held on by brads/staples. I had bought the replacement cables, but discovered that the turnbuckles on the cable had loosened significantly. That cause them to tangle with each other when moved. I simply tightened and readjusted the tension and all is good.

Since your slide still moves in and out, I suspect you may have the same issue. If so, it's a pretty easy fix. If you have a brad gun (pretty cheap to buy), it will make replacing the trim easier.

Ron
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Old 09-16-2018, 08:43 PM   #5
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Jim,
I have a 07 PDQ which is probably exactly like your coach. I was able to access mine like Ron by removing the trim at the top of the slide. Mine was also pin-nailed in place. When I reinstalled it, I attached it with snap latches like used on your drawers. They hold it real well and if I need to remove the trim, I can just pull it off.

Roy
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Old 09-17-2018, 07:21 PM   #6
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thanks for the input. Mine cover was also pin nailed in place so easy to remove, but terribly annoying that they were so stupid, in my opinion, as to nail it in. Also, when I removed the Nailed in piece, there is a frame behind which also makes it very difficult to reach in and work. Any sane engineer would have made the whole valence piece one assembly with some form of snap in fasteners, but I have never accused Monaco of having good engineering (my personal opinion after 50 years working in design and manufacturing). Some of what you see makes me shutter to think if they get simple things so wrong, what about the important ones.


So far I've finally been able to almost route a new leader cable using 1/8 in cable instead of the 5/32 on the real cables. This is on the broken cable so that I can use the leader to pull in the real one when they show up tomorrow. Have to get that around the last pulley at the top. I also think that the lack of access to remove the side trim and get in there easily is another engineering screw up, but I am not willing to tear the entire front of the slide off to get to that. It's a lot harder but I am getting the cable run.
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Old 09-18-2018, 06:32 AM   #7
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The valence on my coach was held in place with about four screws into the ceiling. It was easy to remove....Bruce
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Old 09-18-2018, 07:00 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jrusselltx View Post
thanks for the input. Mine cover was also pin nailed in place so easy to remove, but terribly annoying that they were so stupid, in my opinion, as to nail it in. Also, when I removed the Nailed in piece, there is a frame behind which also makes it very difficult to reach in and work. Any sane engineer would have made the whole valence piece one assembly with some form of snap in fasteners, but I have never accused Monaco of having good engineering (my personal opinion after 50 years working in design and manufacturing). Some of what you see makes me shutter to think if they get simple things so wrong, what about the important ones.


So far I've finally been able to almost route a new leader cable using 1/8 in cable instead of the 5/32 on the real cables. This is on the broken cable so that I can use the leader to pull in the real one when they show up tomorrow. Have to get that around the last pulley at the top. I also think that the lack of access to remove the side trim and get in there easily is another engineering screw up, but I am not willing to tear the entire front of the slide off to get to that. It's a lot harder but I am getting the cable run.
Jim,

Sorry to hear that the cable is broke. I was relieved that my cables just needed adjustment, not replacement. Although I have a spare set of cables, I'm not sure if I could figure out how to replace them. There is not a lot of space to work in.

Let us know how you did it!

Ron
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Old 09-19-2018, 05:35 AM   #9
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I got this done; here's the short version:


1. The valence was pin nailed in place to a frame that is screwed to the ceiling.
2. Pry off the nailed on wood.
3. Spend a LOT of time (several hours) getting a 1/8 leader cable routed up. The video on line about this works much better because he isn't working inside of a vehicle like mine. The cable did NOT easily find the pulley inside. I used a borescope camera to be able to see down inside the channel where the cables run. Without that, I would not have been successful.
4. Once the cable was in place, spent a lot of time trying to feed it through the pulleys at the top.
5. Removed the frame to get more room to work (should have done this way earlier).
6. Removed the bracket holding the pulley in place which then made it easy to route the leader cable through the pulley.
7. Used the leader cable to pull the actual replacement cable through.
8. Used the frayed cable to pull a second replacement cable through.
9. Attached the new cables and adjusted tension.


The ordeal in this is not noticing the cable fraying (if indeed it did) before losing it inside the vehicle. It is an absolute pain to fish that cable through, and trivial to pull one through if you have access before it gets pulled into the coach. I will now be doing monthly checks on all 8 cables!
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Old 09-19-2018, 07:14 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jrusselltx View Post
I got this done; here's the short version:


1. The valence was pin nailed in place to a frame that is screwed to the ceiling.
2. Pry off the nailed on wood.
3. Spend a LOT of time (several hours) getting a 1/8 leader cable routed up. The video on line about this works much better because he isn't working inside of a vehicle like mine. The cable did NOT easily find the pulley inside. I used a borescope camera to be able to see down inside the channel where the cables run. Without that, I would not have been successful.
4. Once the cable was in place, spent a lot of time trying to feed it through the pulleys at the top.
5. Removed the frame to get more room to work (should have done this way earlier).
6. Removed the bracket holding the pulley in place which then made it easy to route the leader cable through the pulley.
7. Used the leader cable to pull the actual replacement cable through.
8. Used the frayed cable to pull a second replacement cable through.
9. Attached the new cables and adjusted tension.


The ordeal in this is not noticing the cable fraying (if indeed it did) before losing it inside the vehicle. It is an absolute pain to fish that cable through, and trivial to pull one through if you have access before it gets pulled into the coach. I will now be doing monthly checks on all 8 cables!
Jim,

Thanks for sharing. I hope I never have to do this. I do check mine every few months to make sure there is no fraying. It looks like it is less likely to fray if you keep them adjusted correctly.

I am curious as how others attached buckles, etc. to make it easier to remove/replace the trim. I would love to not have to use pin nails every time. Perhaps some could share some photos?

Ron
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