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Old 09-25-2020, 08:24 PM   #1
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Advice needed with Girard Awning G-2000 motor replacement

Problem #1 - It came with a 3 wire plug. Original cable had 4. FAS Awning instructed me to bypass the control board and wire 110v directly since itís a radius motor.
Iím not familiar with the term, but I guess its remote control. I did the wiring although havenít bypassed the control board as yet.
Thereís no way I could feed the cord through the RV, so it was cut and soldered matching white/black/green.
Problem #2 Ė I canít align the motor into the housing because the ac cable hits the top cover and prevents further movement.
I remember the original cable was smashed against the top when it was removed.
Iím about to cut a groove in the cover, bend it up giving some additional cable clearance and fill the void with silicon sealant.
That would reduce stress on the wires but Iím still not sure it would give me the needed clearance.
Problem #3- Iím told that I can use my Fob to do the IN and OUT adjustments. I thought my fob worked with the control board.
Apparently the new motor is going to work directly with the Fob. (It still has the IN and OUT screw adjustments.)
There were two ways to operate the old unit.
1) Hard wired three position switch on the slide- Pos 1.sends 110v on red wire for OUT. 2 Center off or stop,
Position 3 sends 110v on the black wire for IN. All wires go directly to the motor along with the neutral and ground.
2) Using the 3 Fob buttons for control.

It looks like I lose the use of the slide switch awning control.
I spent a lot of time trying to fit the motor in position without much success. Hopefully someone has a easy way to fit the motor.
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Old 09-25-2020, 10:08 PM   #2
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I replaced a Girard 2000 awning motor last year. Mine uses a Simu 120v motor. I purchased an exact replacement from Florida Automated Shades and it fit into the housing just like the original motor.
Before removing the motor, I connected a small rope/cord to the end of the original wiring inside the motorhome (I learned this trick from Paul Whittle). I then pulled the motor wire with the cord attached through the channel in the wall and out through the hole to the outside.
I then connected the new motor wire to the cord and pulled the wire back in from outside and through the channel to duplicate the original wire routing to the awning switch. It was tight and it took some time.

I purchased the new motor from:
Florida Automated Shades
Doug Howells
Phone: (866) 518-1909
https://www.floridaautomatedshade.com/

I hope this helps.
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Old 09-26-2020, 06:26 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by f365gt4 View Post
Problem #1 - It came with a 3 wire plug. Original cable had 4. FAS Awning instructed me to bypass the control board and wire 110v directly since itís a radius motor.
Who is "FAS Awning"?
Are they selling you the correct part - or just telling you how to make "their part" fit?
I could understand that if Girard no longer makes/sells the motor you need, but if the correct 4-wire motor is available, I would send the 3-wire motor back to FAS. Don't hack up or modify the awning circuit if you don't have to.
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Old 09-26-2020, 06:48 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CountryB View Post
Who is "FAS Awning"?
Are they selling you the correct part - or just telling you how to make "their part" fit?
I could understand that if Girard no longer makes/sells the motor you need, but if the correct 4-wire motor is available, I would send the 3-wire motor back to FAS. Don't hack up or modify the awning circuit if you don't have to.
https://www.floridaautomatedshade.com/default.asp

I'm with Country B on a big aversion to modifications.

Vito, which motor did you use?
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Old 09-26-2020, 09:03 AM   #5
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I saw the previous treads on this replacement and didnít think there would be a problem.
The coach had a 2002 SIMU US INC DM1 550.12HU120v12rpm.
FAS (Florida Awning) sent me Simu T5 550 Hz DMI 50Nm 12rpm 12v motor 2004675.
I waited 2 months due to customs and whatever excuses. The new unit came with a molded
Ac plug that wouldnít go through the hole in the RV. So I bit the bullet, and spliced the Ac to the old cable.
Now I own the new motor. I transferred all the parts needed from the old motor and now I canít get
the attached Girard end plate to fit into the awning housing, it sits too low. The motor is physically identical to the original with the Ac cable
exiting on top. The cable hits the awning housing and doesnít give me enough room to get the end plate fitted.
Looks like I have to mash the cable down (like the original) or open up the top so the whole motor assy. moves up.
It will fit in place; I just have to figure out how to do it. Iím working 11 ft. up on a ladder.
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Old 09-26-2020, 09:23 AM   #6
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You will be fine...cut the notch with a Dremel and caulk it. All the controls are inside the motor with the "wireless" series. Just follow your programming instructions. The up/down is inside the motor brain so you don't need the Girard boxes any longer...PROGRESS!!!

You may be in for a new remote that matches the motor. Girard tends to use a little different frequency on theirs.
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Old 09-26-2020, 10:24 AM   #7
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That was my thinking, same with the Fob frequency. No one local to talk too, so I thought to put it up here and get any and all ideas before I take a leap.
I donít see any other way to avoid mashing the cable and that end support is someoneís dream of revenge on DIY.
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Old 09-26-2020, 05:41 PM   #8
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I was finally was able to assemble all the parts. It came down to following the proper sequence. The end support bracket goes on first and then the motor gets attached. I was doing that backwards.
I used shrink wrap and rubber tape on the wires, silicon in the holes. Next step is to bypass the control board and current limiter. Both were expensive liabilities and I'll be glad to see them go.
Thanks for your support; taking a long break and posting here always helps to work these things out.
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Old 09-27-2020, 06:51 AM   #9
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While you are wiring it is a good idea to put a on/off switch in that power line. There have been instances of mystery deployment of awnings with sometimes lots of damage $$$.

Any radio frequency controlled device can possibly be activated by a random signal, why take the chance? Girard never had that due to the fact that owners would turn them off to prevent closure with a little breeze. An old time Girard Rep told me this many years ago and had replaced several mystery damaged awnings. I have made that mod on both of my Girard coaches.
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Old 09-27-2020, 08:30 PM   #10
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Quote:
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Who is "FAS Awning"?

Are they selling you the correct part - or just telling you how to make "their part" fit

Hi Mike,

FAS is the distributor for the Simu motors that Girard used. I found them knowledgeable and responsive when I need to replace two of my window awning motors.

Girard wanted $900 each. FAS was $350 each for the same motors.

The new ones were upgraded and had electronic limit setting vs. the manual screws on the originals from 2005.

Paul
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Old 09-28-2020, 06:13 AM   #11
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I felt that FAS was giving me a good upgrade when replacing my existing unit. The control board is expensive when it fails and not having to do the allen screw adjustments is one less step. Reading the instructions now makes me believe that it still has to be adjusted to set the out. What annoyed me was the order was delayed without notifying me, phone instructions were a little vague, and the weather was getting much worse for working outside.

Twomed, I definitely was going to put a kill switch in-line but never connected the possibility of a stray frequency triggering it to open. Thanks for the important tip.
I had trouble in Wy last year with the high winds. The door awning and slide topper started banging. My emergency fix was tie wraps at the time, but I see that I need to install the device that pins the roller. I don't believe you need to do that with the Girard since it's enclosed, same with the topper. The topper had some slack between the roof line and awning casing that I closed up.
$576.38 w/tax vs. $900
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Old 10-05-2020, 03:47 PM   #12
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I replaced the slide motor switch with a GFCI outlet switch combo. Had to cut a larger hole and connected the A/C line to the motor through the switch using wire nuts. The wind retract and printed circuit controller are no longer in use which means I have to be aware of wind conditions. Not a problem. Use UTube for directions to set the IN and OUt.
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