RV Trip Planning Discussions

Go Back   iRV2 Forums > THE OWNER'S CORNER FORUMS > Monaco Owner's Forum
Click Here to Login
Join iRV2 Today

Mission Statement: Supporting thoughtful exchange of knowledge, values and experience among RV enthusiasts.
Reply
  This discussion is proudly sponsored by:
Please support our sponsors and let them know you heard about their products on iRV2
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
 
Old 04-02-2013, 12:02 AM   #1
Junior Member
 
Drumzilla's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Tallahassee, Florida
Posts: 13
Air Dump & Ride Height

On my 2001 Holiday Rambler Endeavour, there is a switch on the dash marked "AIR DUMP". The owner's manual doesn't really describe what "state" the vehicle has to be in for the Air Dump to function.

Can any of you folks tell me exactly how to make that switch do what it's supposed to? I'm assuming it will allow the vehicle to settle way down on the chassis after the vehicle is parked and the ignition off.

Also, how do I go about adjusting the ride height lower? Is that even possible?

We haven't owned this RV very long, and it's our first motorhome. I know we have a lot to learn.
__________________

__________________
I feel more like I do now than when I first got here.
Drumzilla is offline   Reply With Quote
Join the #1 RV Forum Today - It's Totally Free!

iRV2.com RV Community - Are you about to start a new improvement on your RV or need some help with some maintenance? Do you need advice on what products to buy? Or maybe you can give others some advice? No matter where you fit in you'll find that iRV2 is a great community to join. Best of all it's totally FREE!

You are currently viewing our boards as a guest so you have limited access to our community. Please take the time to register and you will gain a lot of great new features including; the ability to participate in discussions, network with other RV owners, see fewer ads, upload photographs, create an RV blog, send private messages and so much, much more!

Old 04-02-2013, 02:54 AM   #2
Senior Member
 
94-Newmar's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Posts: 2,043
Yes, it will deplete the air suspension system allowing the coach to settle completely. Ignition key turned to the left for accessory, obviously have the parking brake set, hit the power on for the leveling system, then press the air dump switch on the dash.

Ride height is a lengthy question and answer... yes, you can very easily change the ride height on the coach but the factories have recommended heights. I do not have the specifics on HR units, I'm sure someone can chime in here to give you the factory specs. If you use the 'search' feature above for a phrase like 'adjusting ride height' I think you'll find numerous threads on this.

Welcome to the world of RV'ing! :-)
__________________

__________________
94-Newmar Kountry Star 40-KSDP
Spartan/Cummins 8.3C-300HP/Allison 3060 WTEC-II/25yr RV Tech RVIA Certified/Onan-Cummins Certified
94-Newmar is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-02-2013, 07:35 AM   #3
Senior Member
 
Mike Canter's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Freeport, ME
Posts: 4,707
Some thoughts on the Air Dump. Before you dump air make sure there are no rocks under the motor or transmission pans. Make sure your front wheels are straight, my body will hit the tires if they are turned. If you have air leveling then there are two thoughts on leveling that people use. One way is to air level from a dump position so it levels at a lower setting to reduce wind induced motion. The other way is to level from ride height. I have tried both ways on my mh I don't see much difference but it may depend on suspension design and number of air bags and shocks. I have used the air dump to get under a low overpass up by Niagra Falls. I lowered the mh all the way down then drove under the overpass without turning the steering wheel. It worked.

If you are going to measure ride height then make sure you are on real level ground then Air Dump then go back to Travel Mode before measuring ride height.
__________________
Mike Canter
"Gunner" USN Retired, Airdale
2004 Monaco Signature 44' Conquest. Detroit 60
Mike Canter is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-02-2013, 07:46 AM   #4
Senior Member
 
Algoma's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: North Fort Myers, FL
Posts: 3,176
The ride height should not be set lower unless it is set higher than it should be. The air springs have a design height and should be within 1/2" of that. Your chassis will have a dimension for the spring height and it should be set to that, no more no less.
__________________
John and Mary Knight
2015 Newmar Ventana 4311 - wheelchair accessible
2015 Cadillac SRX Luxury AWD
Algoma is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-02-2013, 12:46 PM   #5
"Formerly Diplomat Don"
 
Dutch Star Don's Avatar
 
Newmar Owners Club
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Moorpark, Ca.
Posts: 14,922
Drumzilla......We should probably back up a bit since you're new to the coach. This will be a little long, but since your new to this coach I thought you might be interested in the below info.

The ride height is determined by the manufacturer to make the coach ride smoothly and sit level. You have valves that adjust your ride as you drive down the road by inflating and deflating the airbags.

As a new owner of the coach, you should check your owner's manual or call Monaco for your ride height specs. They are VERY easy to check from alongside the coach without crawling underneath. If they are out of spec, they will cause a noticeably poor ride. This can be discussed later. Monaco will also provide you with a build sheet for your particular coach (no charge) if you ask.

So the answer to one of your questions is NO, you can't/shouldn't change the ride height. It was DESIGNED to ride at a specified height by Monaco.

In regards to your question, "dumping the the air bags". Your coach has hydraulic levelers which steady your coach when camping. The hydraulic jacks only extend so far and sometimes are unable to level your coach if the air bags are INFLATED.

Monaco has an outlined procedure for leveling your coach when camping with their three point jack system (three jacks, one in front and two in the rear). You need to park on as level of ground as possible when setting up camp (this may involve moving the coach farther back or forward in a campsite). Once the coach is stopped, with the coach still at ride height, (airbags full) extend your slides. Once the slides are extended you dump the airbags until they're empty, about 50 - 60 psi on your gauge. You'll feel them "bottom" out. This also brings your entry steps down close to the ground for easy egress.

Once your airbags are deflated, you lower your FRONT jack first until the coach starts to raise. You can then lower your rear jacks to make the coach level side to side and front to rear. Monaco ALWAYS wants the front jack to be in contact with the ground and used a pivot point to set the other jacks. This procedure prevents cracking of the windshield.

On occasion, you may be in a spot where the front of the coach is higher than the rear when you start you're leveling procedure. You still need to start with the front jack and then at some point, you can raise the front jack as the rears put more pressure on it to lower the front some.

When you depart, the procedure is done in reverse. Retract the jacks, air up the airbags and then bring in the slides. There is a tip here that works very well. Typically when you retract the jacks, the coach will drop down on the empty airbags with a thud. Many of us, start up the coach and let the airbags start to inflate. At some point, you'll feel the coach start to lift past where the jacks were supporting it. At this time, hit the "retract all" button on your jacks. This will cause the coach to lower gently down off of the jacks.

Lastly, your slides and jacks have more power to them when running on 110v AC. I attach my water, sewer and power cord before I put out the slides. This way everything has power before you start and you don't have to bend under the open slides to hook things up. Again, the procedure is reversed when you depart.

There will be times when you just stop for the night in a parking lot or other level area during a trip. There is no need to lower the coach for this. We occasionally stop at a Walmart or other parking lot with our tow car attached. I leave it attached and drop my jacks to level the coach. No need to air down.
__________________
Don & Mary
2019 Newmar Dutch Star 4018
2016 GMC Canyon 4WD Crew Cab
Dutch Star Don is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 04-02-2013, 12:52 PM   #6
Senior Member
 
Algoma's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: North Fort Myers, FL
Posts: 3,176
Quote:
Originally Posted by Diplomat Don View Post

There will be times when you just stop for the night in a parking lot or other level area during a trip. There is no need to lower the coach for this. We occasionally stop at a Walmart or other parking lot with our tow car attached. I leave it attached and drop my jacks to level the coach. No need to air down.
I trust the parking lot is concrete as you should never lower jacks on asphalt without pads.
__________________
John and Mary Knight
2015 Newmar Ventana 4311 - wheelchair accessible
2015 Cadillac SRX Luxury AWD
Algoma is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-02-2013, 01:05 PM   #7
Senior Member
 
Mr_D's Avatar
 
Country Coach Owners Club
Winnebago Owners Club
Solo Rvers Club
iRV2 No Limits Club
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Vancouver, WA
Posts: 36,641
Quote:
They are VERY easy to check from alongside the coach without crawling underneath.
Monaco must measure theirs differently than others. On our DSDP you have to measure between points on the suspension and they're behind the front wheels so no way to even see them unless you crawl underneath. And you DON'T want to be under there and move the adjustments. Easy to get crushed that way.
__________________
2009 45' Magna 630 w/Cummins ISX 650 HP/1950 Lbs Ft
Charter Good Sam Lifetime Member, FMCA, SKP
RV'ing since 1957, NRA Benefactor Life, towing '14 Jeep JKU Dragon Edition
Mr_D is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-02-2013, 02:02 PM   #8
Senior Member
 
walt2137's Avatar
 
Monaco Owners Club
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Quitman MS
Posts: 2,963
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr_D View Post
Monaco must measure theirs differently than others. On our DSDP you have to measure between points on the suspension and they're behind the front wheels so no way to even see them unless you crawl underneath. And you DON'T want to be under there and move the adjustments. Easy to get crushed that way.
No you have to get under the coach to adjust the ride height one on the front middle and two in the rear and no you wont get crushed if you just use common sense I have set the ride height on a few coaches and never a problem, on our Dynasty with all the air blown out its only one place that would be real tight for me (not on a creeper) and that is the step area. The instructions with pictures of the RH valve and specs for different year and coaches are on this forum just do a search. As for different measuring points Monaco old instructions used to be to measure from the bottom of the main frame to the top of the H frame in about 05 or 06 they posted a new procedure from the bottom of the air bag plate to the bottom of the top A B plate the only problem is the new procedure and old procedure gives you two different ride heights so I use the old method on our 2000 mod year.
__________________
Walt & Will
2000 Dynasty
2017 Ram Big Horn Crew C 4X4 w/ M&G
walt2137 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-02-2013, 03:29 PM   #9
"Formerly Diplomat Don"
 
Dutch Star Don's Avatar
 
Newmar Owners Club
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Moorpark, Ca.
Posts: 14,922
"Mr D"......On the Monacos, you can kneel next to the front or rear wheel and check the measurement between the top of the airbag plate and the bottom of the airbag plate. As Walt mentioned, the older models measured in a different place. But once those are set correctly, you can still check by kneeling down and measuring the airbag, noting the measurement for future checks.


I check my airbag height once a year when I service it. I bought a cheap pair of banana shaped metal calipers that unfold with a pivot in the center to check mine. I used a sharpie to write the ride height specs on the side of the caliper.


"Algoma"....I always use pads under my jacks, the ones that came bolted to them.

I should have added that others will come on this site who do not own Monacos and will argue that the leveling procedure is wrong and that the slides should only be extended when the coach has been leveled. Monaco has their own procedure for the three point leveling system which makes sense when you think about it. Monaco installs and squares their slides while the coach is in full ride height position. Once you lower and level the coach, you're often tweaking the chassis to make things level. This also tweaks the openings of the slides and puts them out of square..
__________________
Don & Mary
2019 Newmar Dutch Star 4018
2016 GMC Canyon 4WD Crew Cab
Dutch Star Don is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 04-05-2013, 05:46 PM   #10
Junior Member
 
Drumzilla's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Tallahassee, Florida
Posts: 13
Air Dump/Ride Height

My coach has hydraulic jacks/levelers. Why would I have to have that system powered up to dump air from the air bags?



Also, are the chassis's air bags connected in any way with the air brake system, so that dumping air from the air tanks would effect the chassis air dump procedure? Doesn't seem like those pneumatic systems would be connected, because a leaking chassis air bag would mean the air brakes wouldn't work, right?
__________________
I feel more like I do now than when I first got here.
Drumzilla is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-06-2013, 12:07 PM   #11
Senior Member
 
walt2137's Avatar
 
Monaco Owners Club
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Quitman MS
Posts: 2,963
Quote:
Originally Posted by Drumzilla View Post
My coach has hydraulic jacks/levelers. Why would I have to have that system powered up to dump air from the air bags?



Also, are the chassis's air bags connected in any way with the air brake system, so that dumping air from the air tanks would effect the chassis air dump procedure? Doesn't seem like those pneumatic systems would be connected, because a leaking chassis air bag would mean the air brakes wouldn't work, right?
#1 So it will come back to ride height
#2 yes all the air systems are connected and if you loose air pressure the brakes will engauge as it takes air pressure to release them. The air compressor on the engine can over come a small leak but you need to keep your air dryer serviced especially if you have a Haladex pure air plus that was on the early Monaco's but not as serious on the later Monacoers.
I dont know what you mean by dumping the air from the air tanks would effect the chassis dump procedure?
__________________
Walt & Will
2000 Dynasty
2017 Ram Big Horn Crew C 4X4 w/ M&G
walt2137 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-07-2013, 07:00 AM   #12
Senior Member
 
Willie300s's Avatar
 
Monaco Owners Club
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Birmingham, Alabama
Posts: 243
Just bought a 2005 endeavor and have a related question:
When you are departing, you raise the jacks and start the engine to reinflate the air bags. How long does it take to get to ride height and does the coach self level at this point? My unit seems to come up higher on the right than the left.
Willie300s is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-07-2013, 06:44 PM   #13
Senior Member
 
walt2137's Avatar
 
Monaco Owners Club
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Quitman MS
Posts: 2,963
Willie sounds like your ride height is out of specs, as far as how long it takes to ride height I will past a air brake test for you that we should do a few times a year, yes the ride height valves will level the coach if set properly. I tried to up load the file and failed.

TESTING YOUR AIR BRAKES AND SLACK ADJUSTERS
Auto slack adjusters are used to maintain proper brake chamber stroke and lining to drum clearance during normal operation. 

The entire slack adjuster operates as a unit rotating with the brake camshaft as brakes are applied or released.

THE MOST EFFICIENT BRAKING OCCURS WHEN PUSH ROD TRAVEL IS HELD TO A MINIMUM. 

Auto Slack Adjusters adjust themselves automatically during full brake applications to accommodate brake lining and drum wear. The key words here are FULL BRAKE APPLICATIONS. 

Have you ever engaged your brakes full.... pedal to the floor... probably not many have. But there is way to do this properly to ensure you get your auto adjusters to work for you. If you have never fully depressed this pedal it is likely that your auto adjust system has not been fully activating its full adjustment potential. 

DO NOT RUN OUT AND DO IT NOW....DO THE FOLLOWING PROCEDURE TO ENSURE THE SAFETY OF YOUR BRAKING SYSTEM AND THAT YOU DO NOT DAMAGE IT. 

Following is a procedure that should be done every day before you start your drive. Certainly, it should be done if your unit has been sitting for a time without use. This will tell you if your air brake system is functioning satisfactorily and will also adjust your slack adjusters. 

1.Start engine and let air pressure build up. 

2.Block wheels (use chocks that can be purchased from an RV supply store and chock the outside dual on each side. Be sure to insert a chock in front and behind the tire to ensure no vehicle movement. Parking on level ground when you do this is a big help. After this is done and you are sure your Discovery can not move RELEASE YOUR PARK BRAKE.

3.Your brake pressure should be at max. Now fan your brakes to 85psi. NOW ENGAGE YOUR PARK BRAKE AGAIN. Compressor should cut in and watch to ensure a return to full pressure.

4.When you have reached max pressure and the compressor has cut out RELEASE YOUR PARK BRAKE AGAIN AND SHUT OFF THE ENGINE.

5.MAKE FULL BRAKE APPLICATION (BE SURE you have released your park brake before you do this or you will damage the system.) Hold the pedal all the way to the bottom for one minute. Watch your air gauges as they should not move (allowable loss in this mode for 60 seconds is 3 psi). Listen for audible leaks as you wait for the 60 seconds to expire. After 60 seconds release the pedal. (YOUR AUTO SLACK ADJUSTERS WILL SET UP AUTOMATICALLY DURING THIS PROCEDURE.) 

6.Turn on key... fan brakes to 20 psi. LOW AIR WARNING SHOULD START, continue to fan down to 20psi.. by now your park brake will have engaged automatically although you will not have any indication of this. Start engine and run at 1000 rpm using your cruise setting. Time 3 minuets. In this time your air pressure should be up to between 50 and 90psi. This will tell you your Compressor is functioning properly. 

8. Apply park brake. 

End of Test
__________________
Walt & Will
2000 Dynasty
2017 Ram Big Horn Crew C 4X4 w/ M&G
walt2137 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-08-2013, 04:32 AM   #14
Senior Member
 
Willie300s's Avatar
 
Monaco Owners Club
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Birmingham, Alabama
Posts: 243
Quote:
Originally Posted by walt2137 View Post
Willie sounds like your ride height is out of specs, as far as how long it takes to ride height I will past a air brake test for you that we should do a few times a year, yes the ride height valves will level the coach if set properly. I tried to up load the file and failed.

TESTING YOUR AIR BRAKES AND SLACK ADJUSTERS
Auto slack adjusters are used to maintain proper brake chamber stroke and lining to drum clearance during normal operation. 

The entire slack adjuster operates as a unit rotating with the brake camshaft as brakes are applied or released.

THE MOST EFFICIENT BRAKING OCCURS WHEN PUSH ROD TRAVEL IS HELD TO A MINIMUM. 

Auto Slack Adjusters adjust themselves automatically during full brake applications to accommodate brake lining and drum wear. The key words here are FULL BRAKE APPLICATIONS. 

Have you ever engaged your brakes full.... pedal to the floor... probably not many have. But there is way to do this properly to ensure you get your auto adjusters to work for you. If you have never fully depressed this pedal it is likely that your auto adjust system has not been fully activating its full adjustment potential. 

DO NOT RUN OUT AND DO IT NOW....DO THE FOLLOWING PROCEDURE TO ENSURE THE SAFETY OF YOUR BRAKING SYSTEM AND THAT YOU DO NOT DAMAGE IT. 

Following is a procedure that should be done every day before you start your drive. Certainly, it should be done if your unit has been sitting for a time without use. This will tell you if your air brake system is functioning satisfactorily and will also adjust your slack adjusters. 

1.Start engine and let air pressure build up. 

2.Block wheels (use chocks that can be purchased from an RV supply store and chock the outside dual on each side. Be sure to insert a chock in front and behind the tire to ensure no vehicle movement. Parking on level ground when you do this is a big help. After this is done and you are sure your Discovery can not move RELEASE YOUR PARK BRAKE.

3.Your brake pressure should be at max. Now fan your brakes to 85psi. NOW ENGAGE YOUR PARK BRAKE AGAIN. Compressor should cut in and watch to ensure a return to full pressure.

4.When you have reached max pressure and the compressor has cut out RELEASE YOUR PARK BRAKE AGAIN AND SHUT OFF THE ENGINE.

5.MAKE FULL BRAKE APPLICATION (BE SURE you have released your park brake before you do this or you will damage the system.) Hold the pedal all the way to the bottom for one minute. Watch your air gauges as they should not move (allowable loss in this mode for 60 seconds is 3 psi). Listen for audible leaks as you wait for the 60 seconds to expire. After 60 seconds release the pedal. (YOUR AUTO SLACK ADJUSTERS WILL SET UP AUTOMATICALLY DURING THIS PROCEDURE.) 

6.Turn on key... fan brakes to 20 psi. LOW AIR WARNING SHOULD START, continue to fan down to 20psi.. by now your park brake will have engaged automatically although you will not have any indication of this. Start engine and run at 1000 rpm using your cruise setting. Time 3 minuets. In this time your air pressure should be up to between 50 and 90psi. This will tell you your Compressor is functioning properly. 

8. Apply park brake. 

End of Test
Walt
Thanks for the information on testing and adjusting the brakes.
The brakes seem to work fine (although I will do the test and adjustment).
The questions is, when you start up after you have done an air dump, how long should it take to come back up to road height? Obviously, you can't drive (and steer) until the front wheels come out of the wheel wells. Is it possible that one side will air up faster than the other? After I am on the road the road height seems to be equal on both sides although I have never measured it.

Thanks for your help.
__________________

Willie300s is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


» Featured Campgrounds

Reviews provided by


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 04:09 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2020, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
×