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Old 11-18-2014, 11:31 AM   #1
Join Date: Apr 2013
Posts: 43
Air in water lines

I used my unit all last winter for the first year since buying it and put it away in the spring. I winterized back in September by blowing the air lines. i was careful not to exceed the recommended max. pressure in clearing the lines and followed the owners manual instructions. We are now south for the winter and after filling the fresh water tank immediately found that water would not run smoothly because of air in the lines and the pump would not shut down. I even replaced my Aquajet pump with a brand new spare thinking the diaphram was maybe punctured but both run the same. I checked the debris screen at the pump intake but it was clear and I can see air in the wet bay lines leading to the pump. I cannot trace the intake line fully through the coach back to the fresh water tank (FWT) but the line coming from the FWT does not show air bubbles. There is no water leaking under the coach which would indicate a ruptured line.

After 2 weeks on the road, the air is slowly clearing from the lines and the pump is starting to shut down on demand but it has been a really slow process.

One thing I have decided is that I will winterize using RV antifreeze next year. I have included a photo of my wetbay area.

Any suggestions and does anyone else have this problem?

Dave B
Calgary, Alberta
06 Monaco Camelot 40pdq
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Old 11-18-2014, 11:47 AM   #2
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Have you tried using city water and the water pump at the same time? May help push any remaining air thru the system.

Ben & Sharon
2008 43' Holiday Rambler Scepter PDQ
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Old 11-18-2014, 08:04 PM   #3
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I have used compressed air to blow my lines for the last 17 years. When I put water in the system I usually have the same thing happen but I do a round robin on all the faucets until all the air is out, this includes the line going to the ice maker, toilet, washer/dryer. I can usually get the pump to stop cycling after ~20-30 minutes of purging the system.

Depending on you your lines are run, if one has a large "hump" that will hold air it will be hard to get the air out.

BTW, my wife refuses to let me use the pink stuff, she does not want it in the water system at all so my options are limited.
Jim J
2002 Monaco Windsor 38 PKD
2005 Jeep Grand Cherokee w/5.7 Hemi
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Old 11-18-2014, 08:58 PM   #4
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Hi Dave,
When we de-winterize a customers rv that either blew the lines out or used the pink stuff this is how we do it:
We have the rv at a dump station with shore water. We hook up shore water to the rv and open up all faucets/toilet/shower/outside shower/hot & cold low-point drains. We then open both black and grey tanks and leave the drain plug out of the water heater. We turn on the water and begin purging the air and pink antifreeze out of the entire fresh water system. As the water is running we walk thru the rv closing the areas where the water is coming out. The last things we do is put the drain plug back in the water heater and let it fill up and then flush the black & grey tanks. Good Luck
06 Holiday Rambler 45' PBQ
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Old 11-19-2014, 08:41 AM   #5
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Originally Posted by canuckdave View Post
I checked the debris screen at the pump intake but it was clear and I can see air in the wet bay lines leading to the pump.
It sounds like the pump is sucking in air from somewhere upstream, and until that is resolved you will never get all of the air out of the downstream (pressurized) areas.

I've had similar symptoms to what you describe when the pump is sucking in air. What usually causes it for me is if the cap for the debris screen is even the slightest bit loose.

Another easy place to miss is if you have a winterizing inlet that allows the pump to suck in the pink stuff antifreeze. Make sure the valve to that line is completely closed. If it's open just a crack, that can also allow air into the pump intake.

On my rig, the line from the tank to the pump continues on to a valve and a lot point drain. I suppose it's possible that the drain valve could also be open a crack, allowing air into the line when the pump is drawing from the tank. I would think that would drip when the pump is off, and you would've noticed it, but I guess it's possible (but unlikely) that the opening in the valve is just big enough to let in air but not let out any significant water.

You are seeing air in the line from the tank. I know it's tough to follow those lines, but you will need to follow them upstream to see where the air is getting in. Hopefully it's something simple like the ideas above, and you won't have to resort to tracing the pipes.
Adam and Sue, and a pack of little furballs
2007 Holiday Rambler Endeavor 40PDQ Limited Edition - Cummins ISL 400
2013 Ford F-150 FX4 toad - USGear Unified Tow Brake, Roadmaster Blackhawk II Tow bar, Blue Ox baseplate
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Old 11-19-2014, 09:44 PM   #6
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Posts: 32
If there is a leak in the line you will lose what is called prime.


Is the pump pumping
from the tank ?
If it is, is there air with water sputtering out of the faucets?
If this is the case
I would do the obvious.
Run the pump, if it runs constantly its not making sufficient pressure and there is a leak somewhere.
Begin to Check for leaks up stream and down stream of the pump.
If waters leaking its going somewhere.
I had one under the fridge
panel from a mouse.
He's Dead now! LEAKS FIXED.

If there are no leaks try to isolate down stream of the pump. Open a faucet and have someone hit the pump switch. The pump should build pressure and shut off. Slowly open the valve and let the system pressurize as you see water at the faucet try to bleed it of air.
Good luck

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