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Old 04-28-2011, 11:45 AM   #1
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Air levelling - firm or soft

I have observed that, if i dump all the air and then air level, the coach is not so firm. It feels bouncy (soft) when walking around.
I pretty much empty all the air bags when dumping is done.

However, if i don't dump air, instead raise all corners and level, the coach is firm and don't see any bounce when walking around.

Have you folks, with air leveling, observed the same OR am i having a problem somewhere?
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Old 04-28-2011, 04:47 PM   #2
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I have just noticed the same thing. We stopped for a break overnight at a truck stop and I thought I would let the air out to lower the coach and it felt very bouncy. I thought it would be solid but proved to be just the opposite.
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Old 04-29-2011, 08:15 AM   #3
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Why do you dump the air? I am not sure if your unit is the same as our Dynasty but I simply park and hit the auto level switch. Works great.
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Old 04-29-2011, 09:35 AM   #4
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That is the same question that I have. Why dump the air. We have just purchased this new to us holiday rambler with air leveling system and not sure how to use it. We haven't even drove it very far. I will follow this tread very closely before I do something to cause damage even before we get to enjoy our coach..
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Old 04-29-2011, 09:51 AM   #5
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Normally i don't dump the air.
But sometimes have to since the coach sits high up (even with steps out, depending on terrain, while dry camping or in a parking lot). So lowering the coach just makes the transition in/out of coach easier and good on the knees.
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Old 04-29-2011, 09:56 AM   #6
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My question here is when you say you dump all the air out of the bags then are you leaving it like that or do you then level from the dumped position? I dump then I level which puts some air back in the bags.

During the FMCA Rally at Perry I talked to the HWH tech guy there about this. Wanted to know the best way. Either dump all the way down and then level or to just level from normal ride height. If you dump the bags all the way down then you rest against rubber bumper stops inside the bags that are there to protect the bags. So it must be the movement against these rubber bumper stops inside the bags that you are feeling when there is not any air in the bag for support. The bag must offer more support than these rubber bumper stops. Some guys say that there is less movement in high winds if the MH is lowered all the way down and then leveled. I know I have to be real careful there are no stumps or rocks under my transmission if I dump. My tranny pan gets real low to the ground.
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Old 04-29-2011, 11:31 AM   #7
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My systems dumps the air and then lowers the jacks.....
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Old 04-29-2011, 12:35 PM   #8
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I had a really interesting airspring experience, at least I thought so.

At home, our 2005 Monaco Dynasty is parked on a slightly inclined driveway, meaning that in order to level it, the rear upper center springs over the gap between drive and tag axles have to be fully inflated. One night my wife and I were having dinner in the house and heard a huge "BOOM." Having heard Travel Lift tires explode (they are high pressure like RV tires), my first thought was that either one of my neighbors had invested in a sunset cannon or one of the RV front tires had let go.

However, when I looked, the left rear of our beloved RV was sagging - a lot. I discovered that the above-mentioned airspring was in tatters. I jacked and blocked the bus and removed the remains. An almost easy removal, except for the air line fitting, which was insane and could only have been designed by engineers. The airspring part number was W01-358-8897 (Firestone). After a largely frustrating search I located 2 in Baltimore and bought both, for $161.80 each. (Note: that part number is not necessarily universal to other air springs on the same coach or to the same spot on another coach, but when you get the old one off, if the numbers are unreadable, you can take the parts to a truck shop and they can find an equivalent).

Before replacing the busted one, I added the female end of a hydraulic quick-disconnect fitting to the bushing in the spring, and the male end to the 1/4" threaded 90 degree elbow on the air line, because otherwise, the amount of manipulation required to make the connection would sooner or later (probably sooner) fracture the plastic air line. Then I stood with all 317 lbs on the air spring and compressed it, and screwed the bushing into the vent hole on the top. This allowed me to install while still deflated by routing the hydraulic fitting up through the air bushing hole on the upper spring platform, and then connecting the air line without having to turn or twist it. Once connected both fittings open to allow the airline to pressurize, but when popped off, either side will hold air.

All back together now, and works great. Plus, whoever takes it off next time won't have to worry about wrecking the air line. I haven't done the right one yet, and probably won't until it gives up the ghost.

Causes? The truck shop I went to said salt from winter road treatment will ruin rubber air springs. I have not driven in any, but maybe the first owner did. No question that the fabric reinforcement was weak.

My personal theory as to cause? I think that the aux electric air leveling pump probably failed to cycle off soon enough because the angle of the driveway was so close to the upper end of the leveling capacity on full expansion - ie, coffin corner for airsprings.

Sorry, did not mean to hijack the thread, just to say - be careful out there with high pressure airsprings and tires, I would not want to have been standing next to that airspring, or worse, far worse, under the bus with it jacked up only on airsprings when that one popped, and I had just seen a mechanic doing that 4 days before when he was checking my brakes for a state inspection...usually when the safety manuals say never do something, it's for a reason...
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Old 08-10-2011, 09:22 PM   #9
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I was an engineer at Firestone in Noblesville Indiana where the airsprings were made ( I believe TN now). Anyhow the cover material will not be hurt by salt spray and the crimped plates were coated and sal spray tested for superior corrosion resistance. My brother in law has a Monaco Executive. It has 1T type airsprings with pistons on the bottom. What probably happened was salt and road grit collected under the rolling section of the airspring and wore through the cover and fabric. By the way the fabric cords are .035" in diameter. Years ago 25% of city buses were in NY and NJ. Which had the dirtiest street in the US. We machined a groove in the pistons and slip a soft rubber ring to absorb the road grit to improve the life of the airspring. I know I had to go to Triboro Transit in Brooklyn to inspect all the airsprings on their buses in July for 5 years. I never want to go back. Hope this helps.
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Old 08-31-2013, 02:27 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike Canter View Post
My question here is when you say you dump all the air out of the bags then are you leaving it like that or do you then level from the dumped position? I dump then I level which puts some air back in the bags.

During the FMCA Rally at Perry I talked to the HWH tech guy there about this. Wanted to know the best way. Either dump all the way down and then level or to just level from normal ride height. If you dump the bags all the way down then you rest against rubber bumper stops inside the bags that are there to protect the bags. So it must be the movement against these rubber bumper stops inside the bags that you are feeling when there is not any air in the bag for support. The bag must offer more support than these rubber bumper stops. Some guys say that there is less movement in high winds if the MH is lowered all the way down and then leveled. I know I have to be real careful there are no stumps or rocks under my transmission if I dump. My tranny pan gets real low to the ground.
Mike
What did the tech ultimately recommend? I noticed a few days after I level my Dynasty it gets real bouncy walking around. I already suspect a tank leak I need to find but would a tank leak bleed the air bags on the HWH system after its leveled and turned off?
Guess I need to take some measurements
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Old 08-31-2013, 06:15 PM   #11
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I'm really interested in the comments here. I have air leveling, no hydraulic jacks. I always dump my air, then use the auto leveling. I do this so the entry step is close to the ground making it easy to step into the coach without using a folding stepstool on the ground.
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Old 08-31-2013, 07:17 PM   #12
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Originally Posted by MSHappyCampers View Post
I'm really interested in the comments here. I have air leveling, no hydraulic jacks. I always dump my air, then use the auto leveling. I do this so the entry step is close to the ground making it easy to step into the coach without using a folding stepstool on the ground.
As mike said you need to be aware of what is under the coach and where if you dump. The PO bent my metal mud flap when it was crushed by the engine rack
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Old 09-01-2013, 10:36 PM   #13
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The manual says push the button and let the computer do the rest. There's also a light on the control panel that tells you if the system cannot level. Also, if you level first, then deploy your slides the system will try to relevel itself. My Monaco book says, park, deploy slides then level..so that's how I've always done it. My system will relevel several times the first day until it's satisfied with how the coach sits. Then it'll be quiet unless there's a major change in barometric pressure. The system "wakes" every hour to check level, if all's well, it goes back to sleep...if not, the compressor kicks on and fill whatever bag needs to be filled. It's better to have some air in the bags...Dennis
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Old 09-02-2013, 06:55 AM   #14
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I tested this, too. I dumped the air on an unleveled spot. As it settled on the bumpers I heard funny creaking noises. I didn't like that much. Shortly thereafter I noticed my one piece windshield popped out of one corner. That black sealant is not easy for me to work with. If you want a shorter first step I suggest you get a collapsible step.

YMMV
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