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Old 02-04-2021, 07:44 AM   #1
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Air system leak

My Air tanks bleed down in a few hours (I think). I climbed under and sprayed everything I thought might be part of the "air" system. I sprayed the 8 air bags and the two tanks and fittings.
I found 3 slow leaks at valves/adapter. By slow, I mean I couldn't hear them and it took a while for the bubbles to even show up. Do you agree that I'll probably be able to hear my main leak when I'm right on top of it?
I'd like to troubleshoot this using my shop compressor so that I don't have to keep starting the engine.

Where do I connect my home compressor ?
Is it still safe to drive my DP ?
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Old 02-04-2021, 07:58 AM   #2
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Yes, it's still safe to drive. If it's that slow leaking down the compressor will have no problem keeping up. It's perfectly normal for air to bleed down, some in a few days and others in a few hours. That's the reason I always dump the air if it's going to be parked for more than a few hours.
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Old 02-04-2021, 08:31 AM   #3
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Connect the shop compressor to the line going into or out of the air dryer. That fills all 3 tanks. ( One tank may have 2 sections ).

When it drops, does it stop dropping or slow doen at 60 PSI ?

If yes, its more likely the air suspension.

If no, and it steadily drops to 0, then more likely the brake system.
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Old 02-04-2021, 08:36 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by twinboat View Post
Connect the shop compressor to the line going into or out of the air dryer. That fills all 3 tanks. ( One tank may have 2 sections ).

When it drops, does it stop dropping or slow doen at 60 PSI ?

If yes, its more likely the air suspension.

If no, and it steadily drops to 0, then more likely the brake system.
I was thinking that it dropped to about 30 but in reality I think it just drops to zero. Now that I know the two different symtoms are telling me something I'll have to pay closer attention.
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Old 02-04-2021, 09:19 AM   #5
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Check to see if you have an air connection near the generator. Mine is mounted on the right side, it is the mail end of a quick connect coupling. Tow drivers have to hook to this to keep air bags inflated and parking brake off so it should inflate your system.


If your air is leaking that fast you should be able to find it, keep spraying soapy water.
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Old 02-04-2021, 11:00 AM   #6
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Rectorseal spray leak detector is much better than soap/water mix.
https://www.amazon.com/Rectorseal-65...2461523&sr=8-5

I would focus on the 6 packs both front and rear. There are six air solenoids ganged together. They can easily be rebuilt with new o-rings.
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Old 02-04-2021, 11:20 AM   #7
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I know in my past life with both RF (transmitters) and electronic paths, that in some cases cutting the path in half is helpful. Will I need to do that or should this be easier than that?

I appreciate the assistance
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Old 02-04-2021, 11:22 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vito.a View Post
Rectorseal spray leak detector is much better than soap/water mix.
https://www.amazon.com/Rectorseal-65...2461523&sr=8-5

I would focus on the 6 packs both front and rear. There are six air solenoids ganged together. They can easily be rebuilt with new o-rings.
I've already found 3 smallish leaks but I'll try and find these 6 packs you speak of.... lol
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Old 02-04-2021, 11:23 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vito.a View Post
Rectorseal spray leak detector is much better than soap/water mix.
https://www.amazon.com/Rectorseal-65...2461523&sr=8-5

I would focus on the 6 packs both front and rear. There are six air solenoids ganged together. They can easily be rebuilt with new o-rings.
6 packs, are they near the salesman switch ?
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Old 02-05-2021, 09:14 AM   #10
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6 packs are part of the air leveling, 2 of them...front and back...hard to check for leaks.
Tow truck connection is probably a female Type C quick connect.
I would check the purge valve on the bottom of the air dryer near the engine for that big a leak.
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Old 02-05-2021, 09:26 AM   #11
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6 packs are part of the air leveling, 2 of them...front and back...hard to check for leaks.
Tow truck connection is probably a female Type C quick connect.
I would check the purge valve on the bottom of the air dryer near the engine for that big a leak.
The chief complaint is dropping air, with engine off.
Purge valve is open and isolated from the tank air with a check valve.
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Old 02-05-2021, 09:26 AM   #12
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6 packs are part of the air leveling, 2 of them...front and back...hard to check for leaks.
Tow truck connection is probably a female Type C quick connect.
I would check the purge valve on the bottom of the air dryer near the engine for that big a leak.
I'll have to find the purge valve first. There's no end to the things I'm going to get to. Good thing I'm retired.
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Old 02-05-2021, 03:47 PM   #13
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The Purge valve is on the bottom of the air dryer.
It unloads the built up pressure of air, water and traces of oil, that the dryer collects before getting into the tanks.

Once your system reaches about 120 PSI, the governor opens the compressor valves, to stop it from pumping, and opens the unloader valve to purge the air dryer .

By then, the air is in the tanks, behind a one way valve.
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Old 02-05-2021, 05:05 PM   #14
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Quote:
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By then, the air is in the tanks, behind a one way valve.
Not really.

Meritor Wabco dryers use tank air to dry the desiccant beads in the dryer filter, after the compressor unloads. The regeneration valve.
You probably recall me talking about my dryer releasing tank air, hours after engine shutdown.
New dryer fixed that issue.
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