Community Forums

Just For Fun · 01-01-2020, 09:55 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cavie

The 15 amp fuses are factory. You can see it on the labels. The white to color connections are factory. You can not clean the connections with a q tip. Feed a fuse buss holder or 3 in line fuse holders.

"Feed a fuse buss holder or 3 in line fuse holders." For the laymen like me, do you mean simply create/build my own "fused wiring connections" to go around the existing connector?

Just For Fun · 01-01-2020, 09:57 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rmacdon61

Obviously the fuse amp markings are factory and if the white to purple are factory, the engineer should be shot. As a "master electrician" you should know mixing copper and aluminium wire is NOT a good plan. 15 amps in a motorhome is the same as 15 amps in a house and that 14 gauge aluminium wire is not heavy enough and if it is connected to copper, a serious mistake. Nothing else appears damaged so I'd suspect it is that white wire, replace it with 12 gauge copper and check for heat.
Pic of wire nuts joining copper and aluminium wire. A bad mistake.

OUCH!!!!!!!!!!!!

cavie · 01-01-2020, 10:05 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Just For Fun

"Feed a fuse buss holder or 3 in line fuse holders." For the laymen like me, do you mean simply create/build my own "fused wiring connections" to go around the existing connector?

YES, the big red wire in the middle of the picture is the power feed. Start there. Feed 3 individual fuse holders or install a say 4 slot fuse holder if you prefer and can find one. Radio Shack is gone. Then cut the 3 damaged wires from the plug and hook to the new fuse holders.

done on the cheap and 100% safe.

cavie · 01-01-2020, 10:10 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by HJLowell

I agree
Simple safe fix.

there is no AL wire.

cavie · 01-01-2020, 10:18 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Just For Fun

Upon using your link I received: We could not locate the item you are trying to view.

All of the electrical outlets in the kitchen and dinette areas out not functioning. Also, the electric spark (auto start) on the LP range doesn't work now.

The outlets in the kitchen and dinette are on the GFI 120 volt AC circuit. It is tripped. Go to the bathroom and reset the GFI outlet.

The electric spark for the LP Range is on the 12 volt DC circuit. 2 entirely different systems and not connected. The LP spark circuit is most likely on the 12 volt plug you have removed. That circuit can be with the HW, Fridge, stove, furnace control circuits.

HJLowell · 01-01-2020, 03:32 PM

Again
Trying to diagnose an issue when
12 volt DC.
And
120 AC.

Many owners understandably Get confused or its a new system to them.

The houseboating owners face the same issue's.

K7JV · 01-01-2020, 04:25 PM

Just For Fun, FIRST - I don't know if you got the 110 VAC drawing I sent a few posts up, but the outlet under the range is on the same breaker as those others you described on your original post. Curious whether you were able to reset that breaker, if it had indeed tripped.

And regarding my Q-tip suggestions, I was just able to magnify your photos and see what you were showing us. I thought it was the removable plug that was charred, not the board mounted connector. Yea, the Q-tip probably won't do it. I also looked at our module that is the same one as yours, and none of the wires have any series connectors to wires of a different color. Wonder what happened that someone did that, whether it was factory, or otherwise. Curious. M&M should be able to get you back in business.

hypoxia · 01-01-2020, 06:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cavie

The outlets in the kitchen and dinette are on the GFI 120 volt AC circuit. It is tripped. Go to the bathroom and reset the GFI outlet.

Cavie, your electrical information is excellent and appreciated. In this case I believe the GFI is the GFI circuit breaker in the breaker box, not in the bathroom outlet. Just trying to keep Just for Fun on the right track.

He says there is no power at the dinette which is the first stop after the GFI breaker according to the diagram I have and the one K7JV supplied. To reset a breaker, my procedure is to push the switch fully to the tripped position and return it to reset it. Sometimes just moving the switch doesn't reset it otherwise. In my mind the most likely suspect other than the GFI is a loose connection at the GFI breaker unless the inverter is involved.

cavie · 01-01-2020, 07:15 PM

Just for Fun, Do you in fact have GFI breakers in your electric panel? They would have yellow reset buttons on them. Let us know. If you do, you do have to push them hard off then back ON.

If you don't have GFI breakers then according to the diagram the GFI outlet would be under the dining table.

Just For Fun · 01-02-2020, 10:34 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by hypoxia

Cavie, your electrical information is excellent and appreciated. In this case I believe the GFI is the GFI circuit breaker in the breaker box, not in the bathroom outlet. Just trying to keep Just for Fun on the right track.

He says there is no power at the dinette which is the first stop after the GFI breaker according to the diagram I have and the one K7JV supplied. To reset a breaker, my procedure is to push the switch fully to the tripped position and return it to reset it. Sometimes just moving the switch doesn't reset it otherwise. In my mind the most likely suspect other than the GFI is a loose connection at the GFI breaker unless the inverter is involved.

"GFI" OK. I just reread this one. But in the kitchen and dinette areas I cannot find one. Yes I'm sure there... should be one. But... I've check them all.

Even inside the cabinets: for the microwave (of which IS working) and under the kitchen sink specifically for the InstaHot. That I haven't tried. But its own plug also doesn't have/isn't a GFI.

Any thoughts as to where this missing GFI plug could be?

hypoxia · 01-02-2020, 04:02 PM

It is in the main 120 volt circuit breaker panel and will look similar to this https://www.superbreakers.net/1-pole...i-ground-fault

hypoxia · 01-02-2020, 05:04 PM

My suggestion is to find the circuit breaker in the main house electrical panel. Push the test button to see if the breaker trips. If it trips, reset the breaker; You have power at the breaker. If it does not trip, reset the breaker by pushing hard all the way to reset and then all the way to turn it on, Try the test again. If it does not trip the breaker there is no power to the breaker. That will start a completely different testing procedure.

Let us know.

Just For Fun · 01-02-2020, 07:34 PM

Talk about your dwindling mental capacity, memory and retention, or...

Well... yes I know where my "breaker" panels are. Of course I do!!!! Well... admittedly I actually forgot all about where mine were and that I do indeed have a weak 20AMP breaker. AND... I knew this.

I found it, clicked it full-off and then full-on. Can you even begin to imagine what happened next?!?!??!?!?!?!?!?!? Guess I could attempt to keep y'll in suspense, but... yes the outlets now work.

Oh well...

Thanks all for your patients with my total laps in my memory. Hopefully this doesn't continue to occur!!!!!!!!

I'm awaiting an electrician for the burnt wire.

l1v3fr33ord1 · 01-03-2020, 04:11 AM

Just for Fun-

Here is a link to an iRV2 post where I detail the some typical part numbers to replace the pins and connectors on that wire. A 6-pin plug would be needed, rather than the 4-pin plug listed in that post. If you aren't going to do the work yourself, you could pass the info in that post on to your electrician.

It would be very simple to replace the connector attached to the wires, and splice on a single new wire with pin to replace what's scorched, with the correct parts and a decent crimp tool.