Greetings JFF from a brand new member who’s also an almost-brand-new (owner not coach) Monaco owner. Been devouring iRV2 to learn about our Monaco and even fixed a few issues with the knowledge gained. In the process, saw your post. Not saying I’m an expert but spent a good portion of 28 yr AF career fixing ground radio comm equip, so do know at least a little bit about those pesky little electrons.
If you are orig owner had any repair been done on that panel? I can’t really tell from the pix, are all the wires on the Molex connectors spliced with butt connectors? Sure doesn’t seem like it would be factory. It looks to me like there may have already been a problem with that connector before and they replaced the poorly mating pins on the male side with new ones precrimped to pigtails. If that is the case, it would explain a lot, especially if they didn’t also replace the connector on the board.
Over time, normal heating/cooling cycles (expansion/contraction) from intermittent current flow (not to mention the vibration in a MH) can cause the metal pin connections to begin loosening. That can lead to poor connection which exacerbates the heating issue … then snowball effect.
First, the board: Replace? Not until you’ve inspected it. Pull the board off and inspect the back side. If you see charring anywhere on the board, then yes, replace. But I suspect the heat (and damage) was concentrated within the connector itself. If the board is not burned, that further indicates that the only problem was in the connector itself so there’s no need to replace.
A further indication that the board is probably OK is that, as I understand, you never experienced any abnormal behavior from it – you only identified the damage while looking for something else. As Jim/K7JV said, the problem is not excess current draw or the fuse would have popped. If the board is OK, still replace the connector so you have all new (say nice tight-fitting) pins both male and female. You could procure the connector and take the board to any electronic or even small appliance repair shop and they should be able to remove and replace the connector for you.
As spdracr said, not sure what your soldering skills are, but this is def. a job you could do yourself. It’s not soldering tiny leads on a microchip where you need magnifying glass just to see. Just make sure proper wattage iron, use spring loaded solder sucker to desolder old connector, keep tip on copper pad just long enough to melt solder (both for desoldering and resoldering), don’t linger too long and overheat/delaminate the pad. It’s a case of – once you do it, you’ll be amazed at how simple it was. Then later, a soldering iron, solder sucker, roll of solder (rosin core not acid core of course) and just a tiny bit of skill in using them will most certainly come in handy at some point in your future …. guarantee it.
Next, the connector on the wires: I saw that you’re already making progress on procuring replacement connectors. Internet search is your friend, look around, you might even find a male connector with pigtails already attached. Then you just need to clip old one behind butt connectors and reattach new one same way. If you can’t find one with pigtails you’ll have find someone who can either come to your coach and crimp on new connector or a place that’ll crimp pigtails in the connector for you. If done in the coach, cut off old wires behind butt connectors if wire slack will allow.
Not sure how mechanically inclined you are or if you’d want to try but you could definitely replace it yourself. I googled and you can get a decent crimper for $25. Again, you’ll be amazed at how easy it was. Also something to think about DIY …. this may not (say probably not) be the last time you ever have to deal with a Molex connector. Next time might be in the boondocks.
An alternative to replacing both molex pieces would be to find (internet again) a PCB-mount screw terminal connector. You would just need to find one with proper solder pin spacing and current capacity. Then after mounting -- instead of dealing with the male connector on the wires -- simply cut, strip, twist ends, insert and screw down into new connector. Hint on this: before clipping wires from old connector, use black sharpie to mark bands/rings around each wire to correlate with pin numbering. That way you’re sure to install on board in correct order. Big advantage to this method is – you’ll never have to worry about loose Molex connections ever again (at least for that connector). Molex connectors are not the ideal wire-to-board attachment method – though they do speed up board R&R effort. The reason they’re used is not to help the repair technician, it’s to speed up assembly time.
Forgive my longwindedness … verbose is the word my bosses used occasionally. Just some thoughts that I hoped might be helpful to consider. Best regards and looking forward to hearing your “happy ending.”