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Old 11-14-2014, 06:56 AM   #29
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Quote:
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Please forgive me. I was speaking of a generic coach? (many of those relays)

To quote another thread, these motorhomes even by the same mfgr are like snowflakes. No two alike. A bit exaggerated but close.

Running a two way radio service center for 40 years I have replaced thousands of relays. He is right in suggesting one may not have a full time rated solenoid. However I would not hesitate to run one with the switch jammed as long as needed. If the solenoid gives up the ghost his other suggestion is excellent. Just bolt the wires together and wrap with tape.

If anyone gets bored and wants to really bone up on the subject do a search here on BIRD/IRD for a days reading and education. Good things to know. A simple thing can put an unknowing Rver out of commission.
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Old 11-14-2014, 10:58 AM   #30
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Quote:
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Please forgive me. I was speaking of a generic coach? (many of those relays)
Nothing to forgive...I'm sure many coaches are not designed for that relay to be on continuously. Mine is, but I'm pretty sure my last coach wasn't...so your advice is good generally...particularly for less expensive coaches.

Thanks for your advice.
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Old 11-14-2014, 11:00 AM   #31
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The issue with jamming the boost switch isn't the path the electricity takes, it's with the boost relay itself. Many of those relays are designed for temporary duty only - like long enough to provide an assist when starting the generator or main engine. Left "on" for extended periods of time, the "temporary" rated relay can overheat and burn out, leaving you with double trouble.

The jumper is a great plan, but in a pinch, another option might be to move the wires from each side of the relay to one side, effectively doing the same as the jammed switch and the jumper. Stud too short for the wires to be moved to one side? Pull both sides and run a bolt through the whole bunch - just make sure it can't short itself out on something. We're in enough trouble here already....
Absolutely correct. A jumper would have been Plan B.
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Old 11-15-2014, 06:14 PM   #32
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tricotec -
Still thinking of you and your plight...I think we all get to know what it's like eventually. Be interested in hearing how/when you solve this one. Best wishes.
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Old 11-18-2014, 08:45 AM   #33
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Ours failed and we are in Garner,NC getting it rebuilt. Its a 200 amp and the direct replacement is very expensive. Rebuild and install $700+. Less expensive at this shop than the local Cummins Service Center. And this business checked everything possible before yanking it. Poor thing was so toast that all that's left is part of the case!!!
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Old 11-26-2014, 08:49 AM   #34
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tricotec -
Still thinking of you and your plight...I think we all get to know what it's like eventually. Be interested in hearing how/when you solve this one. Best wishes.
We made it to St Petersburg on the Generator with the boost switch jammed down. A new alternator will be ordered this week. Haven't decided if I will install it myself, but I'm considering it.

Very nice that the rig has backup systems!
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Old 11-26-2014, 09:54 AM   #35
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I have mentioned this before but I will say it again. If removing and installing an alternator be very carefull when turning the nuts holding the cables on. Do not let that whole stud turn for any reason. It can either damage the alternator or cause a fire if it shorts out. I have read several articles Abigail engine fires on motorhomes and big trucks because the studs are loose or turned. That is a lot of amperage on that big stud. Also, make sure all those wire going to the alternator are secured so they can't vibrate because that will also cause future problems.
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Old 11-26-2014, 10:01 AM   #36
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I agree. If those nuts don't break loose easily, cut the wires right up close to the terminals! New terminals are very easily installed, and may not be a bad plan anyway if the nuts are corroded in place. You can deal with those balky nuts MUCH easier when the alternator is on the bench or in a vise....
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Old 11-26-2014, 10:15 AM   #37
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Just curious if the alternator can be R&R from within the engine access door at the back of the coach in most side radiator configurations. Do you need to gain access from the top (from the bedroom floor) on rigs with the ISL?

I can reach my alternator and probably could remove the 4 bolts holding it on from the rear but no way can I reach the connections on the back.
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Old 11-26-2014, 02:53 PM   #38
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MikeC and ahicks both made a good point. Be careful out there!

I work around voltage all day (everything from 6&12volt batteries to 440vac line) and am more cautious of the low-voltage high-current situations. They can melt a tool (or ring, watch, glasses, etc) to you faster than you can imagine. Higher voltages are nuttin to ignore either, but sometimes you get complacent by thinking: "Awww, it's only 12vdc, how can it hurt?" It can.
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Old 11-27-2014, 08:25 AM   #39
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MikeC and ahicks both made a good point. Be careful out there!

I work around voltage all day (everything from 6&12volt batteries to 440vac line) and am more cautious of the low-voltage high-current situations. They can melt a tool (or ring, watch, glasses, etc) to you faster than you can imagine. Higher voltages are nuttin to ignore either, but sometimes you get complacent by thinking: "Awww, it's only 12vdc, how can it hurt?" It can.
Good points all around... I will isolate the batteries when removing the alternator.
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Old 11-27-2014, 12:59 PM   #40
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We made it to St Petersburg on the Generator with the boost switch jammed down. A new alternator will be ordered this week. Haven't decided if I will install it myself, but I'm considering it.

Very nice that the rig has backup systems!
When I had a similar problem about 800 miles from home I stopped by an auto parts store and picked up a heavy duty battery cable and used it to tie the house and chassis batteries together and ran the generator to keep the batteries all charged.
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Old 11-28-2014, 01:13 AM   #41
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Originally Posted by smlranger View Post
Just curious if the alternator can be R&R from within the engine access door at the back of the coach in most side radiator configurations. Do you need to gain access from the top (from the bedroom floor) on rigs with the ISL?

I can reach my alternator and probably could remove the 4 bolts holding it on from the rear but no way can I reach the connections on the back.
On our Windsor, the alternator is pretty easy to reach from the back. However I expect to need to open the closet floor hatch to reach the wires in the back. The hatch is directly over the alternator.
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Old 12-01-2014, 10:30 AM   #42
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Finally figured out what alternator I have. It is a Leece Neville 4884JB. This bad boy is $1300 plus retail and $800 rebuilt. OUCH!!!

Prestolite - Leece Neville

Anybody know where I can go to buy truck parts where I'm likely to find this thing in stock??

I'm definitely rebuilding this one and keeping it as a spare!!!
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