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Old 10-14-2020, 07:06 AM   #15
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[QUOTE=vito.a;5480086
Monaco purchased Holiday Rambler from Harley-Davison in 1996. Monaco did not use Freightliner chassis in there diesel coaches. Monaco custom built each chassis for the coach at their Roadmaster chassis facility.

Best of luck![/QUOTE]

Just to clarify Monaco did continue to use the Freightliner chassis that
Holiday Rambler had on hand on the Endeavor models .
I believe they were used through 1999 maybe into 2000 .
Ray
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Old 10-14-2020, 07:17 AM   #16
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….all good point here, I like the idea of a 200 amp upgrade--RVs are big power hogs, so hard on alternators; if you have a diode-based bat isolator, alternator cant see passed isolator so need DuVac system sense wire; if alternator is broke internally and it runs off serpentine belt--you may not be able to run engine; if you have a rear engine radiator vs side, replacement will be a challenge; used the by-pass jumper cable/genset solution with good success--as mentioned, bat banks should have negative cross-cable so you can double up the jumper cables on the positive posts.....good luck....
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Old 10-14-2020, 09:52 AM   #17
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Just to clear things up. The delco has a number of options. Mine for instance, is not set up as self-exciting, I had to run switched power to it (if you don't use switched power it will discharge your batteries through the field coil overnight).

However it is THE one to use if you have a diode isolator. It has a voltage sense line that goes directly to the battery, bypassing the isolator. Then it will boost the voltage at the alternator to compensate for the diode drop across the alternator.

Ditch that leese-neville POS. When mine died and I removed it the build date on the alternator was later than the build date on the coach, so it had failed once before.

On the cat 3126 I believe all you need to do is turn the bracket around or use a different set of holes to make the delco work, easy-peasy. There are different mounting ear options for the alternator - you have to get that right. see enclosure.

With the higher output current capabilities you may have to upgrade the isolator - I did.
Attached Files
File Type: pdf Delco-28SI-Single-Page-Brochure-12-14.pdf.pdf (330.2 KB, 2 views)
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Old 10-14-2020, 11:55 AM   #18
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I replaced my alternator with the 28si. Works great but did have to leave the sense wire unconnected. If you connect it and engine continues to run after ignition key is turned off you sense wire needs to be left disconnected. I think you will probably need the j clamp configuration on the 28si.
BTW my prior DP had a cat3126. I thought they were GREAT engines, in the 19 years I owned the motorhome I only had it in the shop twice, once for a air brake governor (not engine related) and once for an injector replacement. But I found the torque wanting on both climbing and descending the Colorado terrain as you probably found on Wolf Creek.
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Old 10-14-2020, 06:14 PM   #19
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Is anyone sure it is the alternator? Could be corroded battery terminals orone weak battery. It needs to go to a shop and have the alternator and batteries load tested before throwing money at the issue.
You are correct that it could be a corroded connection. Last night I tried to clean all of them and the one from the positive post going to the engine I couldn’t get off and seems to have corrosion.

For now the bandaid fix works and I hen I get home I can clean the connection, see what that does, and then decide what to do from there.

I have thought about putting on a dual alternator setup so that I can more off the inverter on days when I’m not running the generator, so I may consider that more.
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Old 10-14-2020, 06:31 PM   #20
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When this happened to us I purchased an inexpensive set of jumper cables at Walmart and connected the house batteries to the chassis batteries.

I would suggest this is a very dangerous way to combine the batteries-- both ends are HOT and, if either came off and touched any chassis metal, you would have a dead short from a large battery bank.


Much safer is at battery isolator or boost solenoid-- just mark then remove one battery's wire/lug and ADD IT to the other batteries wire/lug.


Now you have one large battery bank-- for both charge and discharge.
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Old 10-14-2020, 07:15 PM   #21
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Just to clear things up. The delco has a number of options. Mine for instance, is not set up as self-exciting, I had to run switched power to it (if you don't use switched power it will discharge your batteries through the field coil overnight).

However it is THE one to use if you have a diode isolator. It has a voltage sense line that goes directly to the battery, bypassing the isolator. Then it will boost the voltage at the alternator to compensate for the diode drop across the alternator.

Ditch that leese-neville POS. When mine died and I removed it the build date on the alternator was later than the build date on the coach, so it had failed once before.

On the cat 3126 I believe all you need to do is turn the bracket around or use a different set of holes to make the delco work, easy-peasy. There are different mounting ear options for the alternator - you have to get that right. see enclosure.

With the higher output current capabilities you may have to upgrade the isolator - I did.
Did you attach the remote sense wire to the coach or to the chassis batteries? I would think on one with a big boy that to the coach batteries would be correct. Where does delco spec the difference in their 6 or 7 part numbers for a 28si j180?
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Old 10-14-2020, 07:34 PM   #22
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Originally Posted by RamiDav View Post
Just to clarify Monaco did continue to use the Freightliner chassis that
Holiday Rambler had on hand on the Endeavor models .
I believe they were used through 1999 maybe into 2000 .
Ray
Mine is definitely a Freightliner XC chassis, complete with a Freightliner VIN and manuals.
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Old 10-15-2020, 06:27 AM   #23
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If you have a diode type isolator ( large heat sink and three large posts) , You can bolt all of the wires together which would give you battery sense if you have a remote sense alternator. This would eliminate a bad connection issue and if you get a charging voltage at this stage your alternator is probably ok.

It has been mentioned at least two times so far and I will again repeat that using a jumper cable can be a very dangerous method. It is too easy for one end to come loose and you could have a serious disaster. I guess any disaster is serious. Be careful out there.
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Old 10-15-2020, 06:50 AM   #24
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Do the one wire alternators lower the voltage after the battery was charged? I have these in my old cars, and even heavy equipment. They charge at 14.3 volts...all the time. Which eventually will over charge your house battery if I understand the circuit correctly...
Not sure what you mean by "one wire". I replaced my alternator 4 years ago, and have not had any problems.
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Old 10-15-2020, 08:18 AM   #25
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I do not think this has been covered but I recently had an alternator failure about 250 miles from home.

In my coach, the "Combiner" selenoid is continuous duty rated and I simply kept the boost switch depressed for the ride home which basically linked the house batteries to the coach batteries. If you have solar (like we did) you don't even need the generator to keep the house batteries charged, if not then run the generator.

While many of those combiners they are limited to 30 seconds for HEAVY loads but are continuous duty at lower amps (like the draw while driving as compared to starting). In our case I simply wedged the switch to the engaged position while driving home and kept my eye on our Bluefire display.

Get home and replace the alternator. In my case the PO had already upgraded the 160A LN alternator with a 200A DR, which I actually fried with my Lithium Battery Upgrade (Another story for another time).

I worked with Quality Power and upgraded to a 260A DR unit, added a DC-DC charger and now have no issues....yada, yada.

In any case you should be able to just use the boost switch to keep the 2 banks connected to get you home.

Good luck, you'll be fine!
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Old 10-15-2020, 07:16 PM   #26
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Did you attach the remote sense wire to the coach or to the chassis batteries? I would think on one with a big boy that to the coach batteries would be correct. Where does delco spec the difference in their 6 or 7 part numbers for a 28si j180?
Where is the sense wire on a Freightliner chassis? I see where it attaches to the alternator... but at what point does it attach to the battery?
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Old 10-16-2020, 03:45 PM   #27
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Did you attach the remote sense wire to the coach or to the chassis batteries? I would think on one with a big boy that to the coach batteries would be correct. Where does delco spec the difference in their 6 or 7 part numbers for a 28si j180?
My coach came with a heart follower charger set up for house priority and the Leese Neville alternator. problem is, with the diode drop the house batteries never get to the point of fully charged, so the follower charger never really works. Then the Quiescent current draw of the CAT ECU kills the start batteries, and you are left with trying to start the coach with partially charged house batteries. And the Gennie starts off the chassis battereis, so it's not useful either.

I totally re-did all that stuff with the Delco - got an amp-l-start, now set up for chassis priority. The delco accommodates the diode drop. And if I need to I can now start the genset and it charges the chassis batteries. When they get full, he charger switches to the house. No more issues.

Sense wire is attached directly to the chassis batteries.

You have to google around to find the various 28si options.
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Old 10-17-2020, 04:24 PM   #28
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To throw another option out there would be to ditch the battery isolator and go with a Bluesea magnet latching automatic charge relay and you could use either alternator . Have smart bi-directional charging from alt or inverter ,plus boost function and manual isolate or combine. There are a few threads with pics and diagrams and better explanations.
https://www.zackelectronics.com/blue...-7700-bss.html
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