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Old 10-30-2015, 02:30 PM   #1
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Alternator Help Please

I have according to my build list, a Leece Neville alternator model 8RG-2113 and serial # 105-356. According to my repair facility the output is fluctuating between 8 and 17 volts. My tach bounces all over from 0 to 4000 RPM. Does anyone know of a source for this alternator and can anyone tell me the amperage of this unit. I understand that it is not easy to replace this with a Delco alternator. Please Help before this leaves me stranded!
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Old 10-30-2015, 02:42 PM   #2
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Originally Posted by JohnDolyn View Post
I have according to my build list, a Leece Neville alternator model 8RG-2113 and serial # 105-356. According to my repair facility the output is fluctuating between 8 and 17 volts. My tach bounces all over from 0 to 4000 RPM. Does anyone know of a source for this alternator and can anyone tell me the amperage of this unit. I understand that it is not easy to replace this with a Delco alternator. Please Help before this leaves me stranded!
First, your alternator is a 180 Amp.
These are not that hard to find. Any good Auto Electric store will likely have one on the shelf. Yours likely has Remote Sensing to the exciter. The standard Truck model does not but it is easily converted by the Auto Electric dealer. $350-400 for a New OEM assembly. In my opinion, don't mess with rebuilding. For a few bucks more you have an alternator that will give you another ten plus years.
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Old 10-30-2015, 02:49 PM   #3
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If you have a system where your coach engine charges the house batteries and your inverter/converter charges house and engine batteries (such as a BIRD system) then you should be able to run your generator to keep batteries charged if alternator fails...
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Old 10-30-2015, 04:18 PM   #4
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Have it rebuilt.
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Old 10-30-2015, 04:23 PM   #5
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Have it rebuilt.

X2. Cheapest and most trouble free. Ask the rebuilder to use OEM parts.


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Old 10-30-2015, 05:51 PM   #6
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People have a lot of problems when they try and replace the original alternator. It is far less of a headache to have the original one rebuilt. Any big truck repair garage should be able to point you to a good alternator rebuild shop.
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Old 10-30-2015, 06:04 PM   #7
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People have a lot of problems when they try and replace the original alternator. It is far less of a headache to have the original one rebuilt. Any big truck repair garage should be able to point you to a good alternator rebuild shop.

Call the shop, give him the PN, drive over and pick it up. Drive home and install it. On the shelf, OEM replacement. Problems?
The first one gave me ten plus years, owes me nothing. I only like to do things once. In my opinion, rebuilding the old one is just not worth it. But, just my opinion.
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Old 10-30-2015, 06:36 PM   #8
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It probably needs new brushes.
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Old 10-30-2015, 06:37 PM   #9
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My alternator failed ~20 months ago, took it off, took it to a rebuild shop and they turned it in less then 24 hours. Cost was $185.

If by chance your alternator cannot be rebuild I would suggest contacting Prestolite, I did just in case mine wasn't rebuildable and they provided me with a current part # and vender

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Old 10-30-2015, 07:02 PM   #10
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One thing that I learned on this forum is to start out each trip with fully charged batteries if at all possible. These alternators are asked a monumental task of charging several needy batteries at once and that makes them work harder and hotter which is what shortens their life span. I had never considered that until reading it here, but it does make sense. If I am boondocking I make it a point to run the generator well before my departure to get some juice back in the batteries so that the alternator doesn't have to work so hard when I head out. Just my two cents worth on the matter.. Randy
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Old 10-30-2015, 07:33 PM   #11
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Randy you are 100% correct. The engine alternator is not designed to charge dead chassis and house batteries and one should use the generator for that purpose.
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Old 10-30-2015, 09:10 PM   #12
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John,

If you are interested, check with your local Freightliner shop. I bought one for my rig from them two years ago for way cheaper than I expected.

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Old 10-31-2015, 05:08 AM   #13
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One thing that I learned on this forum is to start out each trip with fully charged batteries if at all possible. These alternators are asked a monumental task of charging several needy batteries at once and that makes them work harder and hotter which is what shortens their life span. I had never considered that until reading it here, but it does make sense. If I am boondocking I make it a point to run the generator well before my departure to get some juice back in the batteries so that the alternator doesn't have to work so hard when I head out. Just my two cents worth on the matter.. Randy
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Randy you are 100% correct. The engine alternator is not designed to charge dead chassis and house batteries and one should use the generator for that purpose.
After the replacement of my alternator I started watching the state of my house batteries before starting my engine as I also figured I might overwork the alternator... I believe my alternator is a 180 Amp, just wonder if there is anything in the alternator to prevent drawing more than the max?? If not, I would wonder if I should not prevent my BIRD system from charging house batts with engine alternator...
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Old 10-31-2015, 08:42 PM   #14
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John,
I just had the identical symptoms as you have and in addition the ABS and the Check Trans lights lit up on my dash. The volt meter on the dash read about 17 volts. I removed my alternator and took it to the shop I've been going to for over 30 years. They told me the alternator was fine and did not need rebuilding. They said to check ground connections, battery isolators, etc. To make a long story short the cuplrit was the Trombetta relay that connects the chassis batteries to the house batteries so that the house batteries get charged by the alternator while you are going down the road. My Trombetta hangs on the wall of the battery bay and was easy to remove. It was held together by rivets which I drilled out. The contacts inside were coated with a hard, thick coating of green gunk which was preventing the connection from being made. I cleaned the contacts, reassembled and reinstalled the Trombetta and the alternator output voltage is now a steady 14.1 volts as it should be. You can fix yours for free like I did or buy a new one with silver contacts which will not corrode like the copper ones did for less than $50 here: Silver Trombetta
Please make sure you disconnect your batteries and your shore power before beginning to remove the cables from the Trombetta.
If I can answer any questions, just let me know.

P.S Mine has a 160 amp Leece Nevill alternator
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