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Old 11-01-2021, 09:54 PM   #1
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Alternator went boom!

A few weeks ago we were getting ready to leave for a long weekend. As is my regular routine I like to take the coach the night before for a fuel pick-up. I started it and the ALT light came on but then i realized it was still plugged in (I've had this problem before) so I unplugged it and thought I was good.

About 5 miles down the road, the STOP ENGINE light came on and it went into limp mode. I was confused until I realized that the temp gauge was pegged and I just hadn't been paying attention!@

Didn't take much of a look at the engine before I realized that the alternator/water-pump serpentine belt had come off. I reached up from below (once things had cooled off a little bit) and could not spin the alternator pulley by hand. Totally seized up.

I was able to limp the next 3 miles to the truck stop, fill up, let it cool off again and then push back to home (that took 3 engine warm up/cool down cycles but I made it.)

The next AM I was able to get a 28si replacement alternator and the new belt from NAPA. It took about 2 hours to replace it. Wasn't too bad of a job and I did the AC belt at the same time. Old alternator was something I've never seen before (and likely was original to the coach.)





I've got some kind of wiring issue because the tach doesn't work but haven't had a chance to mess with it. New alternator puts out a full 14.4v even at idle which is a nice change.
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Old 11-01-2021, 10:00 PM   #2
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Poor old thing only lasted 21 years.
Where has the quality gone ?
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Old 11-01-2021, 10:22 PM   #3
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It had been going bad for a long while.. I am guessing crack was on the bottom ? And you missed it..
How old is your water pump and fan clutch ?
If 21yrs old.. you are in for next failure...
Good luck and let us know what you did and maybe better members then me will help you
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Old 11-01-2021, 11:49 PM   #4
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Yes, you have a wiring issue. That was a Leece Neville DUVAC alternator. I’m no expert (nor did I sleep at a Holiday Inn Express last night), but I have one. Search for DUVAC replacement and you will find many articles explaining the system and on converting from a L-N DUVAC system to a 28si. It has been done successfully many times, but you still have a little work to do. Since I haven’t done the conversion myself, I’ll leave it to the more experienced to ‘splain how…
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Old 11-02-2021, 12:16 AM   #5
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Suspect batteries way down from your LIMPS, and charge voltage should drop as batteries come up?
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Old 11-02-2021, 07:35 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Smhutto View Post
Yes, you have a wiring issue. That was a Leece Neville DUVAC alternator. Iím no expert (nor did I sleep at a Holiday Inn Express last night), but I have one. Search for DUVAC replacement and you will find many articles explaining the system and on converting from a L-N DUVAC system to a 28si. It has been done successfully many times, but you still have a little work to do. Since I havenít done the conversion myself, Iíll leave it to the more experienced to Ďsplain howÖ
X2, you can use a none DUVAC alternator but there is some wiring changes but can't advise exactly.
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Old 11-02-2021, 08:17 AM   #7
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Check your alternator voltage output at 1500 RPMs for a few minutes.

If it climbs above 14.4 volts, you have a problem.

You need a 28I with battery sense and tach .

Here is a link.

https://www.qualitypowerauto.com/ite...lternators.htm
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Old 11-02-2021, 10:06 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by twinboat View Post
Check your alternator voltage output at 1500 RPMs for a few minutes.

If it climbs above 14.4 volts, you have a problem.

You need a 28I with battery sense and tach .

Here is a link.

https://www.qualitypowerauto.com/ite...lternators.htm
Twinboat,

thanks for that link.

If a guy were to replace his alternator, why not upsize it?

(I'm assuming they are the same physical size, but maybe not)
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Old 11-02-2021, 10:11 AM   #9
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The DUVAC style alternator is critical if you have a DIODE-BASED BATTERY ISOLATOR (there is a .7 VDC drop across that type isolator and the SENSE TERMINAL supplies the alternator with the "at the chassis battery" voltage so the alternator can output that + voltage loss across the isolator.


If you "feel" you have an electrical issue with an alternator, the same symptoms can be experienced with a bad battery isolator, so troubleshoot before just replacing parts.
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Old 11-02-2021, 10:15 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Smhutto View Post
Yes, you have a wiring issue. That was a Leece Neville DUVAC alternator. Iím no expert (nor did I sleep at a Holiday Inn Express last night), but I have one.
Quote:
Originally Posted by jacwjames View Post
X2, you can use a none DUVAC alternator but there is some wiring changes but can't advise exactly.
It's not a big change, the terminals are just labeled differently. I've read everything I can find and the best I can figure is that I have my S and R wires swapped (original wiring was all the same color.)



Quote:
Originally Posted by twinboat View Post

You need a 28I with battery sense and tach .

[/url]
They all have the same terminals on them. Application determines how they are hooked up. The 28si can self excite and sense with only one wire (although is supposed to be more efficient with external sense and ignition.) I must have two wires crossed up and the wrong wire is on the R terminal. Should be easy to see which one is the I as it should have +12v with key on and the other two wires will not.
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Old 11-02-2021, 11:45 AM   #11
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Twinboat,

thanks for that link.

If a guy were to replace his alternator, why not upsize it?

(I'm assuming they are the same physical size, but maybe not)
One thing to check before upsizing - is to be sure the existing wire size/gauge for the alternator output cable is large enough to handle the increased (upsized) amperage.
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Old 11-02-2021, 06:58 PM   #12
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Once you sort this you may still have a small inline fuse that feeds back the tach and alt fail light circuit so take a good look around.

It sure looks like that thing has been living in a puddle of water.
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Old 11-02-2021, 07:04 PM   #13
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I had my Alternator go in my 2007 Ellipse in 2010.
Lucky it was still under warranty
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Old 11-09-2021, 05:13 PM   #14
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One thing to check before upsizing - is to be sure the existing wire size/gauge for the alternator output cable is large enough to handle the increased (upsized) amperage.
The output rating of the alternator doesn't change the amperage draw of the loads in the coach. If the system draws 50A from a 100A alternator, it will draw the same exact 50A from a 400A alternator; the only change would be that the latter will run cooler and be a little more efficient, as well as (most likely) last longer due to its heaver build.
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