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Old 08-02-2021, 08:05 AM   #15
srh
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Originally Posted by groswald View Post
I've used the magnets. They worked well, and are much easier to align. Get heavier ones than you think you need to ensure that they stay closed when cornering.

The plastic latches are better in front of the drawer so you can access them if the "grabber" bit gets closed accidently and needs to be pried open. This can happen if a drawer isn't closed firmly enough to engage the grabber and instead bounces off of it.

In our previous Thor, the latches were mounted centered under the drawer on the back of the drawer box front and the top of the face frame member. In our current Tiffin they are on the top of the drawer and much easier to get to when needed.

Regards,

Randy
Randy,
Thank you for writeup. Don't you think putting the magnets in the back for the kitchen drawer would be hard to reach for installation. If you could take a pic to see what kind they are, would be helpful.
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Old 08-02-2021, 08:07 AM   #16
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Originally Posted by KanzKran View Post
Maybe not practical for all your drawers, but I use this child lock with magnet release for my one large drawer. Due to the weight of the drawer and big door, plus the garbage can and coffee machine, it flies open when coming out of gas stations and such with all that rocking.

The nice thing about it is the little button that allows me to disable it when parked. I used a standard hook-type child lock, but it's a pain to have to push it down every time we need to open the drawer. This type allows unfettered access when parked for the night, then by sliding the little slide, we can reenable it for travel. The release magnet lives in a little flip out storage bin in front of the galley sink, and in a pinch, I could open it with a business card.

Comes in 2-packs or larger, and extra 'keys' are also available, though any medium strength magnet will work. Self-stick versions are also available so you don't need to drill any holes.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Safety-1...S132/100159916
How would they work for drawers, do you know?
Thanks
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Old 08-02-2021, 09:50 AM   #17
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How would they work for drawers, do you know?
Thanks
My 'garbage can drawer' is just that - a big drawer. It doesn't matter if they're on slides or hinges. But they're more bulky than a tiny spring catch, so there's that. But what I like especially is the ability to set them to lock or not lock at will. Just slide that little sideways slider to one side or the other.

It's off-center because the trash can takes up 2/3 of the width, even though it's a very small can. That single cup Keurig machine would probably just about fit inside it.

My son put them on some kitchen cabinet doors to keep the little tykes out, which is where I got the idea.
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Old 08-03-2021, 08:15 AM   #18
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Randy,
Thank you for writeup. Don't you think putting the magnets in the back for the kitchen drawer would be hard to reach for installation. If you could take a pic to see what kind they are, would be helpful.

I absolutely agree, if you're going to use the magnets, put 'em in the front where they're east to install and maintain!

Sorry, I can't post a picture, the magnetic catches left with the Thor Axis. So far I've not had any issues with the plastic latches in the Tiffin that replaced it, but I've got some of each in my on-board toolbox, just in case


Regards,

Randy
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Old 08-03-2021, 11:32 AM   #19
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One caution here! Those original catches in the 10 lb. version make it really hard to open drawers! I like the 3 lb catches, and I never have any problem with the drawers coming open! They make those in a 3, 5, and 10 lb. pull. I definitely would not use more than the 5 lb.! JMHO
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Old 08-10-2021, 01:22 PM   #20
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Are you talking about the catches that are actually attached to the back part of the drawer slide mechanism, or just the plastic catches/locks where the J hook locks into the spring-loaded part?
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Old 08-10-2021, 04:23 PM   #21
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Are you having issue with cabinets or drawers. Owners seem to be happy with type of cabinet latches work with pair of balls and springs, they are all metal . They are somewhat adjustable from what I understand.
https://www.amazon.com/s?k=double+ba...f=nb_sb_noss_1

These are adjustable. Tightening or loosening the screws in line with the balls adjusts tension of the springs behind the balls. You can set each drawer so it stays closed no matter how heavy, and doesn't have to be tugged open.

I really like them because they're all metal, simple, and will last as long as the RV, no changing latches every few years.
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Old 08-10-2021, 06:18 PM   #22
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https://www.amazon.com/s?k=double+ba...f=nb_sb_noss_1

These are adjustable. Tightening or loosening the screws in line with the balls adjusts tension of the springs behind the balls. You can set each drawer so it stays closed no matter how heavy, and doesn't have to be tugged open.

I really like them because they're all metal, simple, and will last as long as the RV, no changing latches every few years.
That is a great link! Thanks for sharing it.
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Old 08-10-2021, 06:38 PM   #23
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I have a few drawers in the kitchen area where the locks on the drawer slides are failing to keep them from opening while traveling. I have read that some of you have used a magnetic system like the "Cabinet Magnetic Catch".

Would something like this work? I would be interested in hearing if you have used something similar.
Magnets will not hold an RV cabinet door or drawer closed. If you have drawers that are coming open, are you sure the latches are not broken?

Usually they get broken when you try and shut the door/drawer and the latch has gotten pushed shut. People try and slam them and that either brakes the tab or the inside of the latch.

And yes, if the are just coming open to easily, by the 10# ones listed above. Usually TT come with the 5# ones. I've still got a few of them left in my DP, but as they break, I replace them with the 10# ones. I keep about a dozen in my spare parts. Usually end up replacing 2-3 a year. More if I have guests who do not understand and try and slam a door closed when the latch has been tripped.
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