Any Monaco Vesta Owners Here?

[dpj1959]

Originally Posted by Rodg495

I have never been able to run the microwave in the convection mode using just the inverter. The microwave struggles all by its self and really pulls the voltage down to 11 volts on the batteries while on ( and I have 4 batteries ). Yes I agree the inverter needs to be larger. I'd be interested in what you replace it with. When i use the microwave on the inverter I make sure the charging system is OFF. I've gotten used to just starting the generator when we need the microwave for more that just a cup of coffee warm-up.

This tripped when we were on shore power but the inverter tripped. It seems that it is becoming more frequent and replacing the inverter is my first option, but wanted to see if anyone else had issues. We only use the micro, the bedroom tv, and now the mini freezer when inverting and we replaced the house batteries a few months ago.

[dpj1959]

Inverter question

Are the Pure Sine Wave inverters worth the additional costs, and what are the benefits.

On a secondary note, We did increase both TV sizes so I am thinking the additional watts on the 43" in the front may be a contributing factor to the tripping of the inverter breaker.. Wife pointed this out to me this morning...

[dpj1959]

Originally Posted by dpj1959

Inverter question

Are the Pure Sine Wave inverters worth the additional costs, and what are the benefits.

On a secondary note, We did increase both TV sizes so I am thinking the additional watts on the 43" in the front may be a contributing factor to the tripping of the inverter breaker.. Wife pointed this out to me this morning...

Answered my own question after checking out you tube... Will pay the additional cost for the pure wave

[Rodg495]

Yes the pure sine wave is much much better for all of your electronics ( they will be very happy you did that ). I'm thinking of that 2800 watt unit also. We have 200watts of solar. We don't do a lot of boon docking. The larger inverter will make my microwave happy also.

[dpj1959]

So the front of the slide on the bottom does not come in all the way. I heard a couple loud pops when it was pulling tight when I closed it and saw the bottom did not come in tight. Tops are good, rear bottom is tight but the front lower corner is not pulling up. When the slide is extended out, the top front inside gasket is not squished tight to seal and I am thinking the front is now off 2 clicks on the screw drive.

Thoughts or comments?

[dpj1959]

So the front of the slide on the bottom does not come in all the way. I heard a couple loud pops when it was pulling tight when I closed it and saw the bottom did not come in tight. Tops are good, rear bottom is tight but the front lower corner is not pulling up. When the slide is extended out, the top front inside gasket is not squished tight to seal and I am thinking the front is now off 2 clicks on the screw drive.

Thoughts or comments?

[Casbah35]

Think you are correct! Was surprised to see that the 32's had Schwintek system on a slide that size. The 35's have cable systems on living area slide.
If the gear has jumped on the track you are in for some work. The only way to fix that issue is taking the entire mechanism on the front side out and re-adjust it. Need to double check all the parts (track, gears, block, etc.) to make sure any of them don't have excess wear or damage and need to be replaced.
Unfortunately it won't be a quick-fix. There are some videos you can refer to online to see what needs to be done. Might want to check them out to see if it is a job you want to tackle or whether you might want to have a repair tech do it. Either way it is an issue that will need to be corrected. Sorry you have the issue.

[dpj1959]

Originally Posted by Casbah35

Think you are correct! Was surprised to see that the 32's had Schwintek system on a slide that size. The 35's have cable systems on living area slide.
If the gear has jumped on the track you are in for some work. The only way to fix that issue is taking the entire mechanism on the front side out and re-adjust it. Need to double check all the parts (track, gears, block, etc.) to make sure any of them don't have excess wear or damage and need to be replaced.
Unfortunately it won't be a quick-fix. There are some videos you can refer to online to see what needs to be done. Might want to check them out to see if it is a job you want to tackle or whether you might want to have a repair tech do it. Either way it is an issue that will need to be corrected. Sorry you have the issue.

Thanks... We are in Little Rock on a job and it sticks out about an inch and a half so I will get it home in November and my son and I can tackle it. Thanks for the videos... Thinking it all started with the bottom leaning down a little and catching on one of the ceramic tiles. I did cut the Maple trim at the bottom to go over it but think the movement had already happened.

[dpj1959]

Originally Posted by Casbah35

Think you are correct! Was surprised to see that the 32's had Schwintek system on a slide that size. The 35's have cable systems on living area slide.
If the gear has jumped on the track you are in for some work. The only way to fix that issue is taking the entire mechanism on the front side out and re-adjust it. Need to double check all the parts (track, gears, block, etc.) to make sure any of them don't have excess wear or damage and need to be replaced.
Unfortunately it won't be a quick-fix. There are some videos you can refer to online to see what needs to be done. Might want to check them out to see if it is a job you want to tackle or whether you might want to have a repair tech do it. Either way it is an issue that will need to be corrected. Sorry you have the issue.

After further review, we will be looking at how to raise the rod and cogs to straighten out the front side since the top comes in fairly tight but the bottom is out that 1 inch and a half. Still think it is a fairly simple fix for me and my son if we support the slide, pull the motor on the front side, and measure the slide off the body to re align it. Key is getting the bottom of the slide to go 2 or 3 grooves farther then the top which I believe can be done but need to see how the rod and cogs are held in place. If we have to pull the slide out of the coach, that will be a job for Monaco at their facility.

Also saw the motors for 125 bucks so I will probably swap them out and keep the old ones as back ups. If I am in there, I am going to do it.

Thanks again.

Do you remember who put the new head lights in their coach? I can research it but I got the parts and everything is a little bigger so looking for tips before I install them.

[Gypsy Couple]

DPJ1959, you might look at adjusting the rollers on the interior floor before messing with the motors. Sounds like the 3 or 4 rollers are to low that’s causing the top to seal first and the bottom drag on the tile. The rollers are accessible from inside the RV between the floor and slide. There is an adjustment screw to raise and lower them. I would also spray slide lube on all rollers along with the aluminum tracks and behind the rubber seals to access motor gears and glide blocks upper and lower both sides. Once you have completed this don’t forget to sync your slide controllers by holding down the open or closed button 5 seconds past open or close of slide another words keep holding down the button until after it stops for at least 5 seconds and that should sync the two controllers up. I do it every time I move the slide in or out because why not right... as for replacing just the motors that’s not as easy as it sounds. I replaced the entire slide and track assembly on my 32 and it was really difficult needing special tools and supports stands for the slide to balance on. It sounds like you just need an adjustment hopefully. Good luck

[Gypsy Couple]

On our trip we had the turbo boost solenoid hoses go out on our Vesta 32. We have about 48,000 miles on it but thankfully for this forum we had the information needed to get it addressed quickly at the international dealership.
So here is how it played out... driving along all of a sudden hear a vacuum or pressure whistling noise when RV is under load like up a hill or grade. Noticed it started to sound when turbo psi was above 14psi also noticed it was going up to 39~40 psi on turbo pressure and from reading the posts 41psi would trip the light on dash and derate power to engine so I didn’t allow this to happen by watching psi on grades and backing off on gas peddle to control psi until we reached the nearest international dealership. They did a smoke test to confirm my suspension Of the hoses and I was correct as the tiny hoses and rubber boots had failed. Attached is a picture of the hose and one boot, the tubing inside corrugated plastic gets brittle and cracks not visible in picture but it’s cracked in several places also rubber boot gets weathered to the point of failure. All said and done, 4 hoses replaced 5 hours of labor $900 bucks later. I could have done the repair but after watching real mechanics struggling to access these parts and the use of there smoke machine I’d recommend having them do it. If your planning a long trip and haven’t had this repair completed yet I’d recommend getting it taken care of prior to leaving home base. It took stopping at 2 international dealerships South Dakota before we found one that had the parts to complete the repair luckily they were on the way to our next destination.

[Rodg495]

dpj1959 -
I've had the same issue on occasion ( slide not in all the way at the bottom ). Since it was only about an inch I just let it ride and after a few cycles in/out it would close properly. Lately I've changed the way I extend or retract the slide. I hold the switch just long enough for the slide to move 6 inches then stop, then hold again for 6 inches. I do this about three times then hold the switch until it gets all the way out and hold until the motor stalls. This process seems to help mine extend or retract more evenly.

On the subject of the headlight conversion: I did mine about two years ago. You can see the posts from me and OspreyHD on posts #2559 and #2560 in this group about Dec 2018. I did not buy the expensive conversion holders. I used the factory ones and cut them to hold the new Harley LED bulbs. Those bulbs have a cool segment that flashes with the turn signals ( you have to add a wire from the turn signal light, easy ). The factory holders have to be cut very carefully to accept the new bulbs, but it can be done ( a lot of small cuts ). Or you can just buy the new holders, expensive.

[Gypsy Couple]

Also on this same trip we had the death wobble a couple of times before complete tire failure. The tires were replaced a year or two ago with roadmaster by cooper because of age and getting the death wobble a few times on previous trips. So I was noticing some uneven wear on the two front tires on the outer edges indicating low tire pressure before I got the first death wobble on this set of newer tires. Both front tires I had set at 105 psi because the tire shop told me that’s the ideal pressure and they set all the big rig tires to that pressure. It started with noticing the uneven wear then it started to get noticeable flat spots then it started to blister then blew out. The flat spots, blistering and blow out happened in a span of about 200 miles. The wear was probably noticed a 1000 miles beforehand. (See pictures attached) when the tire blew out it snapped off the air break hose fitting on spindle Ugh lucky you can actually drive and stop with three out of the four breaks working “carefully” Into town after the tire was replaced road side.
So I’m adding to my order posts about “death wobble”

1) Uneven tire wear causes death wobble, not sure exactly what happens internally in tire but causes tire to convulse when turning RV around corners and hitting a pothole or bump will start the wobble. (Both on Continental and Roadmaster tires)
2) low tire pressure (105psi) seems to be the likely contributing factor recommend setting front tire pressure to (115~120psi)
3) The only remedy once a death wobble has occurred is to replace the two front tires.

[dpj1959]

Originally Posted by Gypsy Couple

DPJ1959, you might look at adjusting the rollers on the interior floor before messing with the motors. Sounds like the 3 or 4 rollers are to low that’s causing the top to seal first and the bottom drag on the tile. The rollers are accessible from inside the RV between the floor and slide. There is an adjustment screw to raise and lower them. I would also spray slide lube on all rollers along with the aluminum tracks and behind the rubber seals to access motor gears and glide blocks upper and lower both sides. Once you have completed this don’t forget to sync your slide controllers by holding down the open or closed button 5 seconds past open or close of slide another words keep holding down the button until after it stops for at least 5 seconds and that should sync the two controllers up. I do it every time I move the slide in or out because why not right... as for replacing just the motors that’s not as easy as it sounds. I replaced the entire slide and track assembly on my 32 and it was really difficult needing special tools and supports stands for the slide to balance on. It sounds like you just need an adjustment hopefully. Good luck

Thanks for the roller tip. We will definitely try and go that adjustment route before dealing with the front motor assembly on the slide. My fear is that the two or three pops I heard when the bottom of the slide caught one of the ceramic tiles made the gear jump on the track. Roller adjustment is an easy fix so we will hope that will solve the issue.