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Old 07-22-2021, 12:08 AM   #3473
Cs1
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Originally Posted by mtnbrit View Post
The data sheet for the Polar Mach air conditioner states it takes 21oz of R-410A refrigerant.

Attachment 336781
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Old 07-22-2021, 10:40 AM   #3474
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leveling coil story

We just did the 6-day, 2350 mile trip from CA to SC in the Vesta. Went through Lake Havasu on the way up to join I-40 at Kingman, outside temp registered at 127! The Vesta did pretty good at keeping us and itself cool. Hit some super-heavy rain around AK and AL. Upon leaving the CG in AL, we got a beeping alarm whenever the coach was moving. Figured out it was the Valid leveling panel causing the beeping, it was showing a fault and short circuit on a solenoid. Luckily I had two spare solenoid coils on board, so proceeded to swap out the failed one. Crawled under the rear, wrenched the solenoid nut off which promptly snapped the connector right off it as the whole valve plus solenoid rotated out of the manifold. The nut was fully rusted on to the valve stem. Got the whole thing out, had to basically destroy and remove the old coil with a hacksaw in order to be able to grip the valve stem tight enough to free the rusted nut. Ended up having a nearby chevy service shop get it cracked and removed. The valve tube got a little deformed in the process, so a little needle filing got the plunger moving freely in the tube again and I was able to get it all back together, test it, air up the system, reset the Valid panel, and got back on the road with about a 4 hr delay.

I decided to pick up a whole new 6-pack of solenoids and manifold for about 8 bills and replace the whole rear unit. I will be doing the "Tupperware mod" to try to protect the unit from road spray.

The point of the story, carrying the spare solenoid coils is a must, but be prepared that the nut will be seized on to the valve, preventing you from simply swapping the coil. I guess the valve is supposed to be loctited in to the manifold at quite high torque so you would normally be able to undo the nut while the valve stays put in the manifold, but as the nut was so rusted on, the whole thing came undone. Then you have nothing to grip to undo the nut. Given that these coils seem to be guaranteed to fail at some point, in terms of preventative maintenance, it might be worth going under and inspect the 6-pack, check that you can undo the nut on each solenoid and slide off the coil, without the valve coming undone. Put vaseline on them to prevent further corrosion, and make a plastic cover for the whole thing.

I would recommend carrying spare valves as well as the coils. Here are the part numbers and prices as supplied by Dan at Valid.

4301512 COIL, HYDRAFORCE, 12VDC
$26.75 USD

6X1053 VALVE, KIT, 2 WAY
$51.65 USD

VTL01T001 TOOL ASSY, MANIFOLD VALVE
$59.70 USD

VTL03A008-3 MANIFOLD ASSEMBLY, LEVELING, FRONT-REAR CONFIG, RME
$793.85 USD


VTL03A008-3.pdf
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Old 07-22-2021, 03:06 PM   #3475
Cs1
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mtnbrit View Post
We just did the 6-day, 2350 mile trip from CA to SC in the Vesta. Went through Lake Havasu on the way up to join I-40 at Kingman, outside temp registered at 127! The Vesta did pretty good at keeping us and itself cool. Hit some super-heavy rain around AK and AL. Upon leaving the CG in AL, we got a beeping alarm whenever the coach was moving. Figured out it was the Valid leveling panel causing the beeping, it was showing a fault and short circuit on a solenoid. Luckily I had two spare solenoid coils on board, so proceeded to swap out the failed one. Crawled under the rear, wrenched the solenoid nut off which promptly snapped the connector right off it as the whole valve plus solenoid rotated out of the manifold. The nut was fully rusted on to the valve stem. Got the whole thing out, had to basically destroy and remove the old coil with a hacksaw in order to be able to grip the valve stem tight enough to free the rusted nut. Ended up having a nearby chevy service shop get it cracked and removed. The valve tube got a little deformed in the process, so a little needle filing got the plunger moving freely in the tube again and I was able to get it all back together, test it, air up the system, reset the Valid panel, and got back on the road with about a 4 hr delay.

I decided to pick up a whole new 6-pack of solenoids and manifold for about 8 bills and replace the whole rear unit. I will be doing the "Tupperware mod" to try to protect the unit from road spray.

The point of the story, carrying the spare solenoid coils is a must, but be prepared that the nut will be seized on to the valve, preventing you from simply swapping the coil. I guess the valve is supposed to be loctited in to the manifold at quite high torque so you would normally be able to undo the nut while the valve stays put in the manifold, but as the nut was so rusted on, the whole thing came undone. Then you have nothing to grip to undo the nut. Given that these coils seem to be guaranteed to fail at some point, in terms of preventative maintenance, it might be worth going under and inspect the 6-pack, check that you can undo the nut on each solenoid and slide off the coil, without the valve coming undone. Put vaseline on them to prevent further corrosion, and make a plastic cover for the whole thing.

I would recommend carrying spare valves as well as the coils. Here are the part numbers and prices as supplied by Dan at Valid.

4301512 – COIL, HYDRAFORCE, 12VDC
$26.75 USD

6X1053 – VALVE, KIT, 2 WAY
$51.65 USD

VTL01T001 – TOOL ASSY, MANIFOLD VALVE
$59.70 USD

VTL03A008-3 – MANIFOLD ASSEMBLY, LEVELING, FRONT-REAR CONFIG, RME
$793.85 USD


Attachment 336840
Strange!......the exact same thing happened to me here in the UK 6 days ago. I think it was prompted by a journey in a torrential downpour. Ive got a mop bucket fixed over my manifold now with some small holes drilled to let any water out
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Old 07-23-2021, 05:59 AM   #3476
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Originally Posted by mtnbrit View Post
I did the inverter upgrade. Found a Magnum MS2812 on ebay for about $750. You need to pull out the two yellow 12/2 Romex and pull in two 10/2 Romex from the inverter to the breaker panel. On my coach, the inverter out cable went straight up to the Microwave/AV outlet in the cabinet above the sink. I severed it behind the breaker panel and wired the outlet to a free breaker on the right side. Remove the two jumper links in the load center that join the left side to the right side to split the panel. The new inverter out cable goes to the 30A breaker at the right end of the row. Inverter In cable comes from the 30A breaker rightmost in the left side of the split panel. So now the left side is shore/gen powered and the right side is inverter-powered.

I strongly recommend upgrading the 2/0 cables from the battery bay to at least one if not two 4/0 cables. I saw significant DC volt drop with the stock 2/0 cables. I have now installed LiPo batts in the bay right next to the inverter so my DC cables are super short and I get no noticeable volt drop. Replacing these thick DC cables is a nasty job under the belly of the coach.

Happy to help with any further questions.

Mtnbrit, if you would please give me a call about the inverter replacement for the coach. I want to pick your brain a little.

I am home for 3 weeks and going to do it since I am putting in a residential fridge and thinking that a pure wave sine is probably needed...

Thanks

David 757-237-4901
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Old 07-23-2021, 10:21 AM   #3477
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cs1 View Post
Strange!......the exact same thing happened to me here in the UK 6 days ago. I think it was prompted by a journey in a torrential downpour. Ive got a mop bucket fixed over my manifold now with some small holes drilled to let any water out
My model is a TRIP, but I imagine that both models have the same parts. After reading these two posts I couldn't help but think that if this happens to me, I'm screwed. I have no idea how to even begin to troubleshoot the problem; guess I better start saving my pennies and nickels for the inevitable.

Thanks for sharing, I may go ahead and purchase the replacement six-pack and be ready for it.

Lou
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Old 07-23-2021, 11:49 AM   #3478
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Just got home from an 1100 mile trip from the beautiful state of Arkansas and have some wants and needs to run by the forum.

1. Heat creeps from 1/2 to 3/4 when I push it hard to maintain grades... Sweet spot is between 65 and 70 to pull the 2% grades and not lose momentum. Going to clean the radiator, flush, and new fluid. Not sure if it has ever been replaced.

2. The particulate filter light has flashed a few times and wondering if anyone has pulled and cleaned this filter. I have not checked it out yet but remember seeing a video of a guy that pulled his ( not sure what MH) and pressure washed it... Wondering if this may be part of the heat creep issue... Thoughts?

3. Slide is still farther out on the front bottom which is now dragging on the floor and I have to pull it in by hand on the bottom to keep it moving. Motors sound sluggish so we are going to get 2 new Lippert motors. My son and I looked into the cavity for the motor a while back but did not go farther. We determined that the slide work was a little more than we wanted to take on so I have the number for Northam in Goshen IN.

4. Going to put the 2800 inverter in with the new fridge and may relocate the batteries like Mntbrit did and open the circuitry to get more inverted receptacles.

We got 7.9 on the way home loaded pulling our loaded jeep and we leave for Miami Beach Aug 9 until Christmas. Was not thrilled about the mileage but it is what it is.

David & Peg
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Old 07-24-2021, 08:18 AM   #3479
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dpj1959 View Post
Just got home from an 1100 mile trip from the beautiful state of Arkansas and have some wants and needs to run by the forum.

1. Heat creeps from 1/2 to 3/4 when I push it hard to maintain grades... Sweet spot is between 65 and 70 to pull the 2% grades and not lose momentum. Going to clean the radiator, flush, and new fluid. Not sure if it has ever been replaced.

2. The particulate filter light has flashed a few times and wondering if anyone has pulled and cleaned this filter. I have not checked it out yet but remember seeing a video of a guy that pulled his ( not sure what MH) and pressure washed it... Wondering if this may be part of the heat creep issue... Thoughts?

3. Slide is still farther out on the front bottom which is now dragging on the floor and I have to pull it in by hand on the bottom to keep it moving. Motors sound sluggish so we are going to get 2 new Lippert motors. My son and I looked into the cavity for the motor a while back but did not go farther. We determined that the slide work was a little more than we wanted to take on so I have the number for Northam in Goshen IN.

4. Going to put the 2800 inverter in with the new fridge and may relocate the batteries like Mntbrit did and open the circuitry to get more inverted receptacles.

We got 7.9 on the way home loaded pulling our loaded jeep and we leave for Miami Beach Aug 9 until Christmas. Was not thrilled about the mileage but it is what it is.

David & Peg
My two cents regarding the particulate filter. I drive a luxury motor coach on a PT basis. My understanding from the mechanic is that the filter cleans itself during the "regeneration" phase. This happens two ways; one is while you are driving down the road and the system does an "auto-regent"; the second is a manual regeneration, there is a button on the dash to accomplish this, I'd advise reading the instructions since there are certain steps that need to be followed. When you regen light flashes, it is telling you that the "auto-regen" is occurring, when if flashed RED, that when you need to stop and conduct a manual regen, if you don't do it soon after the RED light flashes, then you will need to hook it up to a computer with the required program for the regen. When the red light flashes, you will also notice a loss of power, and if it goes on long enough, the computer will shut down the engine to prevent damage to the engine.
I have seen my regen yellow light flash on occasions, in my coach and the bus, but it has never turned RED, and I have never conducted a manual regen.

My two cents, hope it helps. Happy and safe travels.

Lou
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Old Today, 06:30 AM   #3480
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death wobble report

Just to report I experienced two death wobbles after lowering my tire pressures to try and soften the ride up front. I had gone down from 110-115 to 90 psi cold. I have Toyo M122s. They clearly weren't happy at 90 or even 95. I went back to like 105-110 cold and haven't had death wobble since.
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Old Today, 09:49 AM   #3481
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Smart Thermostat and A/C mods

Hi Folks, Just wanted to share a great update I did to our Vesta. Brought it into the modern era with a smart thermostat replacement for the stock Coleman, thats super fiddly and hard to see at the angle its at in the overhead cabinet. The Micro-Air EasyTouch RV thermostat model 354 is a direct drop in replacement for the RVComfort ZC, connects to the same header, no rewiring needed. It has a nice bright touch-screen display, with bluetooth and wifi for remote access, plus an App which all seems to work great! Many times I have left the coach and realized I left the heat or a/c on. Now I can just pop open the app and shut it off. Its also nice to be able to adjust the temps without getting out of bed. Im not affiliated with micro-air in any way, just passing on a tip for a great product. I also have their Easy Starts on the roof units, which also seem to work good.

I also performed what I call the "anti-flutter mod" to the ceiling vents, which significantly quieted down the whole system and made it quite a bit more efficient (ie cooler) at the same time. Basically you drop the ceiling vent down and tape up the sliding vents so they are completely sealed. I used gorilla tape but the silver HVAC tape might work just as well. I also taped up the duct transitions to make them as smooth as possible. When fitting the ceiling unit back, have the system running and listen for any fluttering, whistling, wheezing noises and seal it up so its totally quiet. I found there was a lot of cold air whistling and leaking past the barrier and back into the return side, which is obviously wasteful and noisy. To fix this I drilled two holes in the corners of the return filter opening put two long screws in which now hold the middle line of the vent tight up against the ceiling and prevent the leakage. Cool and quite now.

Last tip, which may be obvious but I find nice, is at night to set zone 1 a few degrees lower and the zone 3 higher. You still get plenty of cold air coming through the bedroom vents from the front unit without the noise of the a/c unit starting and running right overhead.
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Old Today, 11:31 AM   #3482
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Lippert slide motor part #

Does anyone have the Lippert slide motor part number. Want to order two of them and I thought I had the numbers but cannot find them

TIA

David
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