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Old 10-03-2020, 12:26 PM   #1
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Aqua Hot AHE-100-04S "Low tank - Level Cutoff"

Greetings !
My Electronic Controller panel is lit "red" for the "Low tank - Level Cutoff".
Liquid levels in the heat tank and overflow are good. Manually resetting the electronic controller has not fixed the issue. No hot water for a couple days now. Looking at the service manual trying to troubleshoot. Any helpful advice?
Thanks.
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Old 10-03-2020, 02:29 PM   #2
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I have the Owners', Shop/Service, and Parts manuals. Here are the manuals.

EDIT - the Shop manual is too large to upload here. If you want a copy give me your e-mail address (You can PM me) and I will send it to you. However I got it on-line (somewhere) so you may be able to find it yourself if you prefer.

Good luck
Attached Files
File Type: pdf AHE-100-04S_PARTS_MANUAL_Rev._C_01-2013.pdf (2.08 MB, 6 views)
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Old 10-03-2020, 03:04 PM   #3
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There is a float valve up near the top of tank. Order a new one if you've already added boiler fluid.
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Old 10-03-2020, 03:14 PM   #4
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https://heatmyrv.com/product/ele-800-002-switch-float-brass-12vdc/

Being 2 wire i think you can just connect the wires to check it. Should be 12v to and from. I jump them at the board, it's easier. Double check me on it in the manual.
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Old 10-03-2020, 03:18 PM   #5
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If you do not have shore power can you use your electric heater with generator for temporary heat.
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Old 10-03-2020, 03:19 PM   #6
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https://www.rvtechmag.com/tech/38_aquahotsvc.php
Scroll down, jump 15 and 16. There's a picture of it
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Old 10-03-2020, 03:59 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shootist View Post
https://www.rvtechmag.com/tech/38_aquahotsvc.php
Scroll down, jump 15 and 16. There's a picture of it
Wow, thanks for posting this link. I'm keeping this for future use.

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Old 10-03-2020, 04:52 PM   #8
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You can short the 2 wires together from the float switch to get it to work.
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Old 10-03-2020, 08:25 PM   #9
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Thanks, all.
I jumped 15 and 16 as suggested, and it looks like I need a new switch float assembly.
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Old 10-03-2020, 08:57 PM   #10
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Originally Posted by 05MoWi View Post
Thanks, all.
I jumped 15 and 16 as suggested, and it looks like I need a new switch float assembly.
You can change the float switch wet. A tee shirt stuffed under it should catch the fluid you loose. Just be fast.
You are fairly safe to run it with the jumper. As long as you know you have it full. I would check it everyday, would be one expensive deal if it went low on you.
Just until the part arrives of course.
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Old 10-03-2020, 10:12 PM   #11
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Aqua Hot Float Switch

Hard nylon...much less $$ than others you will find. Around $15 when I got mine about 7 years ago. Use Teflon pipe dope hi-temp, not tape for a good seal. Be sure to orient it so it closes the circuit on low level of course.

Getting the old one out was a bear, and there is still a piece floating around somewhere, probably sunk to bottom of tank or it would have been an issue by now.

https://www.galco.com/shop/RSF80-Cyn...itches?obs=yes
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Old 10-04-2020, 07:26 AM   #12
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Dang Chuck ^^^ I tried to find a different switch but ended up buying the $150 one. If you hook a small vacuum cleaner at the radiator cap you will not loss any fluid when changing.
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Old 10-04-2020, 04:34 PM   #13
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Originally Posted by Twomed View Post
Hard nylon...much less $$ than others you will find. Around $15 when I got mine about 7 years ago. Use Teflon pipe dope hi-temp, not tape for a good seal. Be sure to orient it so it closes the circuit on low level of course.

Getting the old one out was a bear, and there is still a piece floating around somewhere, probably sunk to bottom of tank or it would have been an issue by now.

https://www.galco.com/shop/RSF80-Cyn...itches?obs=yes

If jumpering the terminals is a way to bypass for temporary/testing purposes, wouldn't you orient the new switch to close the circuit when fluid is at proper level?
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Old 10-04-2020, 09:18 PM   #14
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If jumpering the terminals is a way to bypass for temporary/testing purposes, wouldn't you orient the new switch to close the circuit when fluid is at proper level?
I believe that's correct.
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