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Old 02-13-2021, 05:36 AM   #1037
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MI Navigator View Post
This was exactly the ticket. Seems there is a couple of capacitors on the ECM that are made of aluminum. They start to fail when it gets cold and gets progressively worse with time. Some have replaced them themselves with a solder iron but Transmission Instruments has done some 4500 of the repairs. Hey have a great test on their web site using a light bulb to check your wiring. I just needed the pin out and my multimeter to determine my wiring was not subject. We were heading for Florida from Michigan and I fount that if I take the ECM inside and keep it warm it works fine so that is what I did for this trip. I may have TI due the rebuild when I get back in a couple weeks.
I found the same that taking it inside and warming it up made it work again. However, I was still having inconsistent operation of the exhaust brake function. After Transmission instruments worked their magic the exhaust brake works much better. I talked to John at Transmission instruments before I sent my unit in, and he indicated that the issues can occur in other components and even in the ribbon cables that connect the three boards. I usually am fearless about tackling circuit board issues, but chose to send mine in because of the complexity of the assembly and I am very glad I did the results were excellent.
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Old 02-21-2021, 04:20 PM   #1038
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I found the same that taking it inside and warming it up made it work again. However, I was still having inconsistent operation of the exhaust brake function. After Transmission instruments worked their magic the exhaust brake works much better. I talked to John at Transmission instruments before I sent my unit in, and he indicated that the issues can occur in other components and even in the ribbon cables that connect the three boards. I usually am fearless about tackling circuit board issues, but chose to send mine in because of the complexity of the assembly and I am very glad I did the results were excellent.


Thanks for the advice, just ran 2500 miles from Michigan to Florida and back. Ran fabulous and transmission operated perfect. Day after I got home, tried to start it when cold and nothing. I think I will take your advice and send it to Transmission Instruments.
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Old 03-01-2021, 08:13 PM   #1039
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Thanks for the advice, just ran 2500 miles from Michigan to Florida and back. Ran fabulous and transmission operated perfect. Day after I got home, tried to start it when cold and nothing. I think I will take your advice and send it to Transmission Instruments.
I am on my way back home from my first big trip. MN to Key West FL and back the long way through New Orleans. I have lots to write about. Limited data and on my phone so too much to type. Glad you made it with no issues!
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Old 03-03-2021, 06:22 PM   #1040
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Thumbs up Navigator

Enjoy and Drive safe.
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Old 03-04-2021, 10:07 AM   #1041
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This is great information, Thanks to all involved.
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Old 03-04-2021, 05:18 PM   #1042
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Welcome!

Hello fellow Nav owner!

These dang LP fridges have been my demise for years. Great when they work and pain in the butt when they don't. Good luck with whichever way you decide to go.

What is the primus heating? Is that the engine pre-heat thingy? I honestly know nothing about it other than it is not enough to start it when it's -20F!

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we purchased a 1994 Navigator recently and working through the quirkinesses of a 27 year old rig. Right now the fridge is dead. I’ve replaced both the board and the thermistor to no avail. I’m figuring the coils on the back are just clogged up.

I’ve been reading about the Amish company in Indiana that makes replacements for the cooling side. Has anyone done this or what solutions have you found?
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Old 03-05-2021, 07:28 AM   #1043
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The Primus heating system is the heat for the whole coach and also can be a preheat for the Diesel engine.
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Old 03-05-2021, 09:42 PM   #1044
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Hmm. I don't think I have that. I have 2 propane furnaces. Is the primus system like an aquahot boiler system?
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Old 03-08-2021, 10:04 PM   #1045
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All my guages on the dash work except for one. The amp meter has no reading. Anyone know where it gets the signal? What reading should be on the wire? Click image for larger version

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Old 03-08-2021, 10:32 PM   #1046
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Around 50 Amps mine reads on startup.
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Old 03-08-2021, 11:56 PM   #1047
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Amp meter, I have the same problem
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Old 03-09-2021, 08:35 PM   #1048
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Amp meter, I have the same problem
+1 Mine does nothing. It's on the long list of little annoyances.
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Old 03-10-2021, 08:18 AM   #1049
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Same issue with amp gauge!
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Old 03-10-2021, 03:15 PM   #1050
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Took our unit for its second big trip. We left Indiana and headed for the southwest. Spent 3 weeks wandering in the warm and sunshine. Visited the Grand Canyon for the fifth time, but first with snow! Did our first boon-docking, loved it. Tested our new solar install, 600 watts of Renogy panels. It worked great, but we need more battery, when it was cold at night it usually ran out of power to operate the furnace about 4 am. But in general we loved the RV life and really did not want to return to the cold and snow, prior commitments required it. A few pictures. The first is boon docking in the Kaibab national forest just south of the grand canyon national park, the second shows my solar install at home before leaving. Good times!
Some information about our solar installation and now a new Lithium Iron Phosphate battery bank.

We purchased Renogy solar panels, six 100 watt units and a ROVER ELITE 40A MPPT SOLAR CHARGE CONTROLLER. I built an aluminum framework to support the panels and screwed it to the roof support ribs using Lexcel caulk to seal the connections. You can see the install in my previous post.

I purchased the matching connector fittings from Renogy and used some SJO 10 gauge cable to connect the 6 panels in combination series parallel to give 24 volt feed to the controller.

The controller will then modify the voltage and increase the current to match the needs of the battery bank. The charge controller can be set up to match either flooded, gel, or lithium batteries.

We used the unit on a three week trip, most of which we needed to run the furnace during the night to keep warm, but had issues with the 320 amp-hour flooded battery bank not being able to last through the night. My batteries were 2 1/2 years old, but I had neglected them and let them get fully discharged numerous times, so they were not up to the job.

Upon returning home I started researching lithium batteries. I found out that unlike lead acid, in which the voltage drops off rapidly once you have used up about half of the rated amp hours, the lithium maintains its voltage until nearly all of the capacity is used, according to the supplier literature.

I also found out that most of the actual lithium cells are manufactured in
China, US supplier buy the cells and assemble them into battery banks.

I chose to purchase a Chinese assembled battery, for a significantly lower price than the various units that are assembled in the US. I purchased two 300 amp hour batteries, the cost was close to $2600.00 for the pair.

I also purchased a Renogy DC to DC battery charger so that I could fully charge the lithium batteries from the engine alternator. Lithium batteries need 14.8 volts to realize their full capacity, which is beyond what the typical lead acid charging alternator can deliver, and the lithium batteries can charge much faster and would probably overload the alternator without the battery charger, which limits the maximum charge rate to 60 amps.

The lithium batteries were too large to fit two into the space where two of the lead acid batteries were, so I installed one there and the second one under the refrigerator next to the inverter /charger. I installed the DC to
DC charger in the rear compartment where the other two lead acid batteries formerly resided. I was able to use the existing battery cables to connect the charger and the two batteries, but had to make two more cables to go from the last battery to the inverter.

To test the system I plugged a 1500 watt electric heater into the 115 volt outlet, the inverter ran it with no issues. Before the inverter would immediately shut down because the input voltage would drop too low. In fact it ran the heater and the input voltage stayed above 12.5 volts. I then added the microwave to the load and it still worked perfectly and maintained 12.1 volts.

I have not yet used the unit overnight, but I am confidant that I will be able to boon-dock indefinitely with this system. The solar system is able to recharge the battery bank much better, since it will take all the amps the unit can produce, unlike the lead acid batteries which charge much slower.

In the event that the sun does not shine enough, the generator will be able to recharge the batteries much quicker since they can take all the capacity it can deliver.

We are heading out this weekend for a short trip, and then on the 21st for a longer stay in the south. I will report back on how the system worked.

I will be glad to answer any detailed questions anyone has about what I have done and how it works, and can take pictures if needed.
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