Community Forums

Logthumper · 09-20-2011, 04:40 PM

I have Atwood 10Gal water heater Model GC10A-4E in a 2007 Knight 38PDQ. Turned the 120volt switch off when we left the campground yesterday. When we arrived at the new location and the switch turned back on = nothing. The light in the switch does not light. The 120 volt outlet that the heater is plugged into is hot, but no hot water.

The 15amp fuse located in the “House 12 volt Distribution” located in the rear closet is good. I read that there is a water heater relay located “behind the panel” but cannot locate it. Where is it?

Is there a Reset switch if there is, where?

Any help/ideas.

Thanks

Gordon66 · 09-20-2011, 04:46 PM

If the outlet has voltage then the light might be burned out in the switch. Ive had several of the pilot lights in switches burn out.

Logthumper · 09-20-2011, 04:52 PM

Gorden66:
Thanks for the reply. The outlet is hot, but no Hot Water.

Dunner · 09-20-2011, 05:21 PM

If you can, put a voltmeter across the leads that connect to the heating element. If no power there, the switch may be bad. If there is power to the element, it's time to buy a new one.

86 Cavalcade · 09-20-2011, 05:39 PM

As Dunner said remove the thermostat/element cover on the inside of your coach and test the element to see if you have 120 to the element. If you do it will be time to buy a new heater element. I thought my element had failed about a year ago and one of the small round thermostats before the heating element has a reset button and all I did was push in on this reset button and it has worked since with no more problems. This reset button is hard to see it is between the spades that the wires plug on. George R. 2001 Diplomat PBD

YC1 · 09-20-2011, 07:06 PM

First, change F22 in that fuse panel or the one marked for the hwh. They can be bad and not look bad. Better yet put a voltmeter across the fuse. The light on the panel should light via 12 volts. The relay is located on the back of the hwh. The voltage path is from the fuse panel to the switch and then to the control box on front of the hwh and then to the relay.

Note the little yellow wire down below the black box. Just a short piece showing. That comes from the control box.

Dave78Chief · 09-20-2011, 07:30 PM

Here is the manual for this water heater: http://manuals.adventurerv.net/Atwoo...-93755-10E.pdf

Circuit diagram is on bottom left side of page 7. The relay being reffered to is inside the black box. It is controlled by the circuit board.

Dave

bob109 · 09-20-2011, 08:26 PM

Cavalcade is correct about resetting the Emergency Cutout Switch. After "ringing out" you heater element and you find there is continuity through the element, remove the black cover from the rear of your tank. You'll find the ECO located next to the inline thermostat. Simply press the reset button on the ECO and you should have power to the element.

Here's a pic of the rear of a Atwood which shows the ECO and Thermostat

http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5266/...d2a862da_z.jpg

JDT · 09-20-2011, 09:17 PM

The indicator light on my switch has burnt out twice and I probably won't fix it again. However, it is just the light in the switch and the element continues to produce hot water.

Dutch Star Don · 09-20-2011, 11:21 PM

I found a fuse I didn't know was there when I was flushing my tank with white vinegar the other day. In the upper left corner there is a metal flange (6" x 6") that directs the burner tube exhaust. There is a small, I believe 15 amp automotive fuse, behind the flange. It requies removing two hex head screws to take the flange off. I'm not sure what the fuse powers.

Airtool · 09-20-2011, 11:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Diplomat Don

I found a fuse I didn't know was there when I was flushing my tank with white vinegar the other day. In the upper left corner there is a metal flange (6" x 6") that directs the burner tube exhaust. There is a small, I believe 15 amp automotive fuse, behind the flange. It requies removing two hex head screws to take the flange off. I'm not sure what the fuse powers.

Think you found the Thermal Protection Fuse. It opens when the area gets to hot.

Dick.

Dutch Star Don · 09-21-2011, 12:21 AM

Airtool.....You are probably right, I never checked the schematics. I posted last week on my BIL's MH that the elcetric heater element on his 10 gallon Atwood was only getting the water warm on our last trip. He drained and flushed the heater with white vinegar, per Atwood) and it solved his problem. The electrode is now heating properly.

Logthumper · 09-21-2011, 09:17 AM

THANKS to you all. I very much appreciate all the support from this group. For now we have hot water from gas. I feel that with the info you guys provided, I will locate the problem. The way the hot water is installed, it is inext to mpossible to access the rear of the unit to do any checking for now. We well be back home in a few days and I will get into it then.
Again Thanks