Atwood Adjustable Thermostat ?

[BobJones]

Hi Guys!

I'd still like more hot water from my Atwood heater so I was thinking about putting in those adjustable thermostats. I'm guessing I would need two, one for the gas side and one for the electric side?

I'm the only person that uses the unit so I wasn't thinking of installing any anti-burn devices.

[Old-Biscuit]

Atwood makes an adjustable thermostat that can replace the 12VDC T-stat on gas side (older models where gas/electric are separate) and for the newer version that use the same set of t-stats for gas/electric (2004 and newer)
Adjustable from 110*F to 150*F

Atwood made an adjustable set (Normal & ECO combined) for 120VAC ...that was used with the bolt on element
Atwood 91853....but no longer in production cause the models that used the bolt on are not in production so if you locate one it will be 'NOS' (New OLD stock) and will be HIGH price $35 PLUS

A standard electric residential t-stats 'could' be used by cutting away some insulation , attach the t-stats to tank wall with some double sided high temp tape (like Hott Rod Kit installation) and then wire up the 120VAC wires from CB to T-stat to element
Standard residential t-stats are adjustable ---several temp ranges
*Home Depot for $17

Atwood 12VDC adjustable t-stat....#93105
Roughly $30 depending on where you buy
*Yes the small normal temp Atwood t-stat is much higher priced then a residential SET of t-stats (normal and High temp controls)
But you need the DC Version for gas side control

I am NOT a fan of the Atwood Adjustable T-stat
Flimsy mounting bracket, cheap plastic washer/spring assembly to hold it against wall (just like the standard Atwood t-stats except this adjustable stands off due to it's size, adjustment control is exposed to weather/elements and foam heat cover doesn't work
**Simply providing info NOT recommendations

Atwood 12VDC Adjustable Kit


Residential 120VAC electric t-stats
Single pole...normal temp t-stat (just wire in the OEM ECO/High Temp T-stat after the adjustable)

[Rocky Larson]

Our old atwood water heater was always too hot. After 16 years I replaced it with their adjustable. Surprised to learn with the old one out neither gas or electric would work. Once installed everything was fine. I think it adjusts both systems.
BTW, once at desired setting, remember it is touching the outside of the tank for its temp info. Outside temps and sun heat effect water temp more noticeably when at a comfortable setting rather than always scalding.

[Old-Biscuit]

Originally Posted by Rocky Larson

Our old atwood water heater was always too hot. After 16 years I replaced it with their adjustable. Surprised to learn with the old one out neither gas or electric would work. Once installed everything was fine. I think it adjusts both systems.
BTW, once at desired setting, remember it is touching the outside of the tank for its temp info. Outside temps and sun heat effect water temp more noticeably when at a comfortable setting rather than always scalding.

2004 was the 1st year for the 'new version' that combined gas/electric into 12VDC System
Both use same set of t-stats and circuit board

[BobJones]

Hi Biscuit!

I'm coming back to this issue now (hopefully you are still watching this thread) as I just had a shower and the water did not last as long as it should. It's winter now and I'm thinking the reason I see such a difference between winter and summer performance is likely due to the very cold inlet water temperature from the park (really cold water coming into the hot tank and lowering the overall temperature too much).

In this thread you mentioned using a residential thermostat to increase the temperature and we also talked about using the Atwood adjustable stats.

I have a new idea (oh-oh) and I think it might solve the issue nicely. Why not just run two of the 180 degree cut off switches on the gas side and on the electric side?

Assuming I left it on long enough this would superheat the tank to 180f and then use the thermostatic mixing valve to bring the temperature down to the correct level. Looking at the blow-off valve on the outside, it appears it's designed to vent at 210F - so there's still quite a margin there.

Question, do you know if I could use the same temperature switches from the gas side on the electric side?

I realize you might think this is crazy but I'm kind of enjoying the plumbing side of this. I've never done plumbing so it's fun for me.

I'm going to be putting in a spin-down filter on the hot outlet side of the tank to capture all the debris from the tank and also put a thermostatic mixing valve on that side. (I have to do some plumbing re-design anyway at the hot water tank to alleviate temperature-related dripping/leaks).