Automatic or Manual Leveling

[dmason]

Noticed a crack in the upper left corner of my one piece windshield returning from camping this weekend. A couple of related questions:
1. My HR Scepter has a three point hydraulic leveling system. We have always used the automatic system for leveling the coach with no problems. This past weekend I had to re-level twice (more blocks under the rear leveling pads) because the cylinders were fully extended. The blocks corrected that problem. Don't know if that caused the crack or not. Question: Does automatic vs manual leveling make a difference as far as one is more safe than the other to avoid windshield cracks?
2. The crack is about 18 inches long from top of windshield to the side. Can I put something like EternaBond (?) tape on the crack until I get it to the repair shop?

[pipedream2]

Richard
it is preferred to always touch down the front leveler first so as to be able to "pivot" side to side with the rear levelers....the front (on my coach anyways) has a longer stroke to touch ground than the rear.....so i touch the front first then hit auto.
Did you blow down the air first ??? (again on my coach it is not auto blow down as on some )
On the tape......not necessary in my opinion the windshield is bonded safety glass

[dmason]

pipedream2,

We ran thru our standard check list which includes releasing all air pressure . . . so we were at zero air pressure. I've heard the same thing about the front leveler being the pivot point but never thought about putting it down first manually and then hitting auto.

Spoke with a technician from Duncan Motor Home in Elkhardt, IN who, as it sounds, handles the windshield glass ordering for my insurance company. He said most folks he's talked to that have a three point leveling system do it manually by first putting the two rear levelers down and then the front leveler. Guess everyone has their own way.

[RVRon]

Originally Posted by dmason

pipedream2,
Spoke with a technician from Duncan Motor Home in Elkhardt, IN who, as it sounds, handles the windshield glass ordering for my insurance company. He said most folks he's talked to that have a three point leveling system do it manually by first putting the two rear levelers down and then the front leveler. Guess everyone has their own way.

I guess most of the people he talks to are also having their windshields fixed.
You really would want to extend the front jack first so the chassis doesn't flex as much when you level up the rear.

[dmason]

RVRon,

Not being able to look under the coach when it's leveling does the front leveler touch the ground first in auto leveling mode?

[RVRon]

Richard,
My unit on automatic, lowers the front jack first, lifts the front and then levels the back. Some on this forum have said that their leveling systems do not do that. It would be fairly obvious from the driver's seat if the nose raised first though. If you have any doubts if it is lowering, use manual mode.

[Monacoach]

Auto level on our rig jerks the rig to violently for my liking. Maybe for the windshields liking to so I always use manual.

[Bob (WA0MQE)]

If you read the manual for any Power Gear Jack system (3 Jack, or 4 Jack System) it says: Lower the front jack/s first and lift it approx. 2 to 3 inches to make sure it's solidly down. Then go to the rear's and lift them. Just saying...

[gregk]

Met a fellow race fan at the Talladega race last month that has cracked three and has been advised by many to refrain from using the auto as it is to aggressive. I used it once when my rig was new a could not believe how far extended the jack were when the process was complete.

Manuel is the only way to insure that the leveling process does not go to such extremes.

[dmason]

gregk,
Funny you should mention the levelers going to the extreme. That's exactly what happened last campout. All three were extended to the max and the coach was still not level. Had to retract and put more blocks under all of them.